Hennessy

as an addenendum havin trouble hand stitching thick or hard lea push stitchin awl down into a block of beeswax watch out it'll glide thru quick,i learned this in an old saddle shop in australia many moons ago .

stone th crows,ruby looks bloody foreign to me eh !

war did th dino sawers come from ?

dyeing black oil dy on lea,i lay down a coat of lac first. then i apply dye thru th lac,sounds strange but it works great.i reckon it will with any color oil dye . try it on some scrap,see fer yerself .

i've owned two 42.5 n i had a good run with both i still own th first ,i purchased in 73.ferdco out in idaho were very helpfull in my getting parts and a manual which is very helpfull. they will sew a belt and liner with easr but 2 layers of skirt is a bit of a shove .

looks like a machine to throw clay targets for trap shooters !

over the years i've heard th opinion that a loose saddle [no pad under saddle\let th horse stand ,he'll move it where it should be ?sounds logical,surely off the scapula area.saddles that slide forward can easily be controlled with a crupper,a common tool in australian saddlery esp in hilly terrain.however makin a saddle stay put by attachments is not the way to solve a problem, not all saddles fit all horses ., eh

ferdco in idaho are good folk

here is a tip that i have had much success with.when ready to dye first put a finish on it .i have used lacquer and acrylic and been successful with both.then oil dye it goes thru n dont come out no residue a wipe will show you that ,try this on scrap n find out.

about th previous advice all is good,i've set thousands by hand here is my suggestion ,a solid bench, a flat piece of steel 4 wide 8 long n at least 1 inch thick. th new setter is not doming as was pointed out because of dome height you could grind down surface of domer slowly till you get a nice dome goin.i allways prefered a ball pein hammer to strike th steel domer it domes nice if you dont rear back on th hit but firm it n move th domer around with each hit.[steel on steel is not right but ] i've actually wore down 2 domers n my fav one i had a new shaft weld'd back on.its 1/2 down again.flat end out on jobs,get a tandy snap setter domer n dome th flat side thats out looks nice n not hard to figure out.

by lin thread i assume its linen n not poly or nylon ? in th old days when i was a nipper growin up in australia,we made our own thread using linen .we waxed 3 or 4 or more strands n rolled 1/2 th distance around a nail on bench.rolling down th thigh until th twis was sufficent,then holding that twist tight in other hand n rolling th other 1/2,a li'l more wax n you have a nice thread.we then 2 needled our stitch and at th end we back stitched two holes n nipped thread as close as we could.when rolling we had a square piece of firm pig lea 8x10 or so that we could belt and hang it where it cover'd thigh top.hadna done it in years i like nylon more now .

i've told this procedure several times and never had any one come back with a grateful thank you !kinda makes me think,they think i'm pullin their leg.] believe me this works every time !.wash [acid] your finished work,then a good coat of lacquer or a acrylic shine then apply yer black oil or alc base dye onto work /// no residue at all.i've done this with all colors in oil dye but black allways cursed me ''no more '' get a piece of scrap leather n see fer yerself it works and it made my life better eh !

HOWDY ive owned one,good for belt lineing n dhaps up to 3 layers of chap lea. ferdco in idaho u can find them in lw can really help you with advice n thread etc etc [tell m i sent ya]they have freely help'd me many times hood luck pete

once in me younger days back in australia i made some clamps from wooden barrel staves, they worked orright too..not much work getting them up to workin status just a li'l imagination eh !

howdy no mouthpiece hackamore more n likely.

try this wet edges with a piece 2x fake sheepskin,run finger surface down edge n find nap direction.turn s/kin over use coarse cloth side n slide down edge in th lay down nap direction.make sure edge is wet,you can slick down edge this way. now rub soap bar along edge in same direction,good layer,then wood burnish or blue jean rag it to your satisfacyion.keep soap bar from overlapping up off edge,that tends to effect colour a bit n effects dye too.

awsome work n neat shaps ol' chap.

a ton of observation and a wealth of knowledge can be had from repairing other peoples work , good stuff fer th memory bank.