Hennessy

stone th crows,ruby looks bloody foreign to me eh !

war did th dino sawers come from ?

dyeing black oil dy on lea,i lay down a coat of lac first. then i apply dye thru th lac,sounds strange but it works great.i reckon it will with any color oil dye . try it on some scrap,see fer yerself .

i've owned two 42.5 n i had a good run with both i still own th first ,i purchased in 73.ferdco out in idaho were very helpfull in my getting parts and a manual which is very helpfull. they will sew a belt and liner with easr but 2 layers of skirt is a bit of a shove .

looks like a machine to throw clay targets for trap shooters !

over the years i've heard th opinion that a loose saddle [no pad under saddle\let th horse stand ,he'll move it where it should be ?sounds logical,surely off the scapula area.saddles that slide forward can easily be controlled with a crupper,a common tool in australian saddlery esp in hilly terrain.however makin a saddle stay put by attachments is not the way to solve a problem, not all saddles fit all horses ., eh

ferdco in idaho are good folk

here is a tip that i have had much success with.when ready to dye first put a finish on it .i have used lacquer and acrylic and been successful with both.then oil dye it goes thru n dont come out no residue a wipe will show you that ,try this on scrap n find out.

about th previous advice all is good,i've set thousands by hand here is my suggestion ,a solid bench, a flat piece of steel 4 wide 8 long n at least 1 inch thick. th new setter is not doming as was pointed out because of dome height you could grind down surface of domer slowly till you get a nice dome goin.i allways prefered a ball pein hammer to strike th steel domer it domes nice if you dont rear back on th hit but firm it n move th domer around with each hit.[steel on steel is not right but ] i've actually wore down 2 domers n my fav one i had a new shaft weld'd back on.its 1/2 down again.flat end out on jobs,get a tandy snap setter domer n dome th flat side thats out looks nice n not hard to figure out.

by lin thread i assume its linen n not poly or nylon ? in th old days when i was a nipper growin up in australia,we made our own thread using linen .we waxed 3 or 4 or more strands n rolled 1/2 th distance around a nail on bench.rolling down th thigh until th twis was sufficent,then holding that twist tight in other hand n rolling th other 1/2,a li'l more wax n you have a nice thread.we then 2 needled our stitch and at th end we back stitched two holes n nipped thread as close as we could.when rolling we had a square piece of firm pig lea 8x10 or so that we could belt and hang it where it cover'd thigh top.hadna done it in years i like nylon more now .

i've told this procedure several times and never had any one come back with a grateful thank you !kinda makes me think,they think i'm pullin their leg.] believe me this works every time !.wash [acid] your finished work,then a good coat of lacquer or a acrylic shine then apply yer black oil or alc base dye onto work /// no residue at all.i've done this with all colors in oil dye but black allways cursed me ''no more '' get a piece of scrap leather n see fer yerself it works and it made my life better eh !

HOWDY ive owned one,good for belt lineing n dhaps up to 3 layers of chap lea. ferdco in idaho u can find them in lw can really help you with advice n thread etc etc [tell m i sent ya]they have freely help'd me many times hood luck pete

once in me younger days back in australia i made some clamps from wooden barrel staves, they worked orright too..not much work getting them up to workin status just a li'l imagination eh !

howdy no mouthpiece hackamore more n likely.

try this wet edges with a piece 2x fake sheepskin,run finger surface down edge n find nap direction.turn s/kin over use coarse cloth side n slide down edge in th lay down nap direction.make sure edge is wet,you can slick down edge this way. now rub soap bar along edge in same direction,good layer,then wood burnish or blue jean rag it to your satisfacyion.keep soap bar from overlapping up off edge,that tends to effect colour a bit n effects dye too.

awsome work n neat shaps ol' chap.

a ton of observation and a wealth of knowledge can be had from repairing other peoples work , good stuff fer th memory bank.

i'll take a stab at responding eh ! blued saddle tacks were first used by noah on constructing th ark. they come in various lengths and have been used in th saddle trade for eons esp in th english field where nail length is important because of tree wood thickness.blued metal has a corrosive effect on leather over a long time,any metal does unless stainless or coated.they seem to have been passed over in modern western saddle construction for glue n coated nails. various nail lengths can be overcome with a good set of nippers .ring shank nails hold in wood really good ,th better th wood th better th bite.make sure its where u want it cause gettin one oot can be a b''',a good head on a nail is a must also,i have used copper washers under nail heads before eh .i've been using a 11/4 length coverd nail zinc coated n cut shorter if need'd,hope that helps.

heres something for all to try on a scrap piece of saddle leather.lacquer [dunno bout acry;ic] leather let dry then dye [oil dye] let dry buff [no residue] then lac or acrylic finish.does great and is th only way i'll black dye anything eh !

when in me home country n working with various saddle n harness folk,as a lad.the rule was horse first,nothing that pricks ,scratches,lumps or bumps goes against th horse, but away from th animal allways !

this sounds weird , but it was past on to me,i was skeptical,it works great. black oil dye [probably all colors] before dye put on a sealer,he used laquer,havent tried acrylic sealer ! after dryin apply black let dry then buff,very little comes off best way to oil dye with no residue problems

an old german saddlemaker back in australia showed me his strop makin.he found a metal shop n got a cup of fine metal grindings from under th bench grinder oil'd down a glued piece of chap on 2x4,applied th shavings n worked back n forth with a flat knife a lil oil a lil strop'n over n over until he had a good coating.on other side a ruff out piece of chap to clean strop works great too.

here's what ah'd do.i have a vise in my shop and some 2in pipe i use to roll equip aboot with .i'd get th pipe set it hard grip in vise lay or temporary glue a piece of skirt lea on pipe,punch outside in punchin into glued lea on pipe ,probably do th same with a 2 x 4 easy as pie^ !

bruce,kinda looks volcanic to me possibly a new zealand maker.or mebe he's from a monastry n he thinks aboot money all th time eh!

when i was a lad in sydney nsw australia i worked awhile in an ol' prestigous saddle shop there named davidson n smith.one of their top hands twere a cherman immigrant.now when i got around any discussions on steel quality ,craftmanship etc #1 was german steel #2 british #american.anyhoo everyone claimed this chap could edge a knife.i'd just bought my first round knife[dixon] n everyone said take it to klaus .he was gracious to show me on dinner break how to hone that knife,angle is everything.now its razor sharp and he passed on his knowledge n exp.dont stone unless absolutely necessary,strop frequently every so often if its all day every time your knife drags.the strop he told me to make i'll pass on here,i've always used a wood bed slat[ 2 x 1/2] to which i glued chap lea ruff up on both sides.he told me go to a metal shop n under th bench grinder scoop up a large cup of fine metal shavings.now get some thick oil heavy motor oil or heavier.smear oil down one side then sprinkle shavings over that get a knife [flat blade] strop shavings in,repeat over n over until surface becomes more or less pasted flip strop over n final strop blade on clean ruff lea,be careful that blade is bound to be sharp! i've stoned my dixon over th years but stropped it thousands it is still th same size n shape as when i first got it,that ol 'cherman ' knew his stuff .