hidepounder

FYI.....if anyone has trouble resizing photos I found a free download that works perfectly. It's called Prish Image Resizer. It's free and when installed all you have to do is right click on an image, select Prish resizer and select a size. It then makes a copy of the original and places it in a new file named "resized". Piece of cake! Bobby

Nice job Art! Bobby

Nice job Tim! They both look great. Bobby

Hi Ross.. I think you did an excellent job on these! I'm not going to comment on tooling because I can't see the fine detail well enough....but I can see it well enough to think you are not having any mechanical difficulties. My only comment on the overall design is that I would try avoid allowing the vinework to completely exit the pattern as it dows on the large flower on top. In that instance you want to shrink the circle so that the vinework continues within the pattern. On the positive side you achieved excellent flow and even though the vinework on that one flower disappears the flow still comes through. I really like that you used different size flowers and grouped the smaller flowers into a single circle which adds variety and interest. Additionally you weren't afraid to let major elements overlap which helps to create the illusion of depth. I agree that your petals have a little bit of a "clubby" look, but I don't think that is bad, rather a matter of style. It reminds me of some of the old designs that came out of the SW and Texas years and years ago. I prefer the thinner more elongated petals that everyone refers to as Sheridan because I think they are more delicate looking. You can easily do that with this design by just drawing them longer and thinner with more background between them which is what Bob was saying. I try to keep some kind of consistant relationship or ratio between the size of the petal and the size of the background area between the petals and hold that ratio throughout the pattern. For instance I might make my background 1/2 or 2/3 the size (width) of the petal. What ever you settle on, try to be consistant throughout the pattern. If you'll notice you have some small petals and some very large petals. You will always have some variance, which is fine, but try to keep the size reasonably consistant. Sometimes you have an area to fill which is just too big for petals and that is where you might add a leaf or acanthus leaf to fill the space. When designing the size of your petals, keep in mind the size of your tools. Don't draw something that is too big or too small for the shader or thumbprint you have to use. It is important to make you pattern fit your tools or make tools to fit the pattern. Determining the size of the circle and the size flower to use within the circle will come with practice. Keep experimenting with size until there is enough space to add in the vinework with type petals you decide to use. Remember....there are no rules or right/wrong....just what is pleasing to you. Great job on this Ross! Hope this helps... Bobby

Thanks, Mongo, I appreciate the kind words. I think using oil dye is fine. I use the alcohol because I am accustomed to it and I think it drys faster. To apply the dye to the edges I use a piece of felt folded in half with a leather handle stapled to it and just apply it freehand. Lately I have been using Partner Pens. They are a large felt tip fitted into plastic tube. I just dip them into a dye bottle. Try googling them....I can't remember the source. Bruce Johnson dyes his edges using Sharpie pens and he is very happy with them. Hope this helps... Bobby

I agree with the other's comments....I think you are using too much pressure and oversanding as well. Here is a link that explains the method I use on edges... Finishing Edges Hope this helps... Bobby

I'm pretty sure that Weaver sells them. Bobby

I tried the ProCarve and just didn't see where it was helping me. I don't think it held the moisture in the leather any longer than water with Joy dish soap added. While I'm not quite as excited about the Lexol solution as some others are, I do like it and I have to agree with Bruce that my leather stays moist longer....longer than Pro Carve and longer than plain water. I can't help but think that's the Lexol holding moisture in the leather. I'm not sure that if you are wetting your leather and going right to work that you will realize as much benefit from the casing solution, however it certainly will not hurt anything at all. You might achieve an increase in burnish color but probably not as much eaze in cutting as the leather will not contain the same amount of moisture as cased leather will. Bobby