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ryano

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Everything posted by ryano

  1. ryano

    P1290115.JPG

    Super great job on the case! Very nice looking piece!
  2. You must be talking about the knee lift, because the machine does have the hand lever on it. It is the lever on top of the machine above the presser bar, not behind the machine like the smaller machines. I have the cylinder arm version of this machine, 11-29. It would sew thru 5/8 easily and 3/4 if you turn the machine by hand. My motor was a little to fast for going thru real heavy leather.
  3. Hello, Eli Slaball is the Landis 16 guy. He sells rebuilt 16s and is great to deal with. 217-543-3464. He also has parts and needles.
  4. ryano

    Patch Machine

    Where are you located? What do you have for trade? There are quite a few in my area and I have extra 29-4 that is in really good shape and not wore out. You have to be careful when looking at the 29-4 because the racks that osculates the shuttle wear the machine casting where they ride. That's why the 29ks have the replaceable shuttle casting seat. Just an FYI. Thanks, Ryan
  5. I am also looking to get a Cambell/Randall machine. I have a Landis 3 and love it. I completely rebuild it and it is a very tight. I would give Keith Pommer a call 605-372-4523. He usually has a good selection of nice machines.
  6. That's pretty cool. I have never heard of one of those machines.
  7. Needles for this machine are being made again by another company. Landis one needles, size 200(25) 230(26) leather point. You can buy these from Eli Slayball. He ones the Landis Sales company in Illinois 217-543-3464.
  8. Hello All, Been away healing for a very long time. I also have a 97-10 that I sew with and really like the machine. You do not have to go with the 794 needle system. I use landis one needles, size 200(25) leather point. You can buy these from Eli Slayball. He ones the Landis Sales company in Illinois 217-543-3464. The 97-10 has a 3.00" needle and the landis one has a 3.50" needle. I think you all know what to do now, cut the Landis one needle down to 3.00." Remove the material from the top side, not the pointed end. lol Now the Landis one needle is longer from the thread eye to the point. Only by very little, but enough to make the needle dull. Just take a die grinder or dremel and dust the shuttle drive so the needle will clear. Only take a minute or two and is well worth it to do so. Hope this helps.
  9. Hello, I know this is a very old post, but I know what the stitching machine is. It is an International Wax Thread sewing machine made by the International Harness Machinery Co. It was made in Cincinnati, Oh. The machine is pictured in their machinery sales book from the turn of the last century. I hope this helps! Ryan
  10. Check with Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing machine 866-362-7397
  11. Hello, Do you still have it? If so, what do you want for it?
  12. ryano

    Machines For Sale

    Are these numbers correct? Singer 111WSV14 Can't find any info on it. Thanks!
  13. Landis sales and service has them. 217-543-3464
  14. They are an awesome machine. I am looking for one right now. You will get spoiled on this machine compared to the Adler. Enjoy!
  15. When the needle gets dull or a bur. You can usually stone the bur off, if it's not too bad.
  16. CD, The riveters take the #1(104) rivets which have a 5/16 head and a .140" body. I would use brass or chrome brass rivets. They are available from Weaver's, Beiler's and many more places. This is the standard size rivet for leather. You can still use the 1/8" rivets if you like though. Just a little FYI.
  17. Hello, I have been super busy the past couple of days and have not had time to post any pictures of the different anvils. It should calm down by the end of the week. The pictures will answer the question about the Model T riveter. Because the Rex riveter with the tube and the upper drive anvil is not the correct riveter to set the rivets for brake linings. Here is an ebay link to the correct hand operated riveter for brake linings. It allows the rivet to be set below the surface of the brake lining: http://cgi.ebay.com/lg-old-vintage-acme-riveter-farm-leather-rivet-tool_W0QQitemZ120537892643QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFolk_Art?hash=item1c109e4723
  18. Bruce and Kate, Short on time here, but wanted to let you know to take your riveter apart first to see how it connects up top by the handle. There were 2 different kinds made. One anvil is threaded and the other one isn't. I will take some pictures of the different styles of riveters later tonight. Kate, something can be done with your wall mounted riveter so you can use it. I will explain later. Gotta go.
  19. Kate, Yes the tube is pretty long to accomodate 9/16 long rivets. The driver does not fit into this tube, it pushes the tube down rather empty or with material between it. If you put a shorter rivet into the tube, lets say a 1/4 long, the driver will push the tube down and still hit the shorter rivet. The tube should push down for enough to be at the same level as the casting. If it doesn't, rust or crud is stopping it. The wall mount riveter you have is for brake linings. Bruce, The older style rivet drivers just rolled the edges of the rivet over like an eyelet. The newer drivers have 6 circular drill marks in them to splash the rivet into 6 splits and roll them over. The reason for this is it takes less presser to "splash the rivet." Weaver's sells the newer replacement drivers for the Rex riveters for around 14 bucks to splash the rivet.
  20. The long tube is where you put the rivet, head first. NO INSERT. The tube is spring loaded and holds the rivet upright. The anvil is at the top and comes down when you push the handle down, hitting the rivet and splashing the end of the rivet. It uses the 104 rivets that Weaver's sell. No holes need to be punched first, the rivets are self-piercing. These Rex Riveters are for leather, not brake shoes. People had them to repair harness. Brake shoe riveters are of a different design.
  21. Thanks for the link to the great video! It was very interesting to watch and very informative.
  22. Just call Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing machine 866-962-7397 and he will help you out. He will know what you have. My Champion manual covers both the wide throat and the narrow throat.
  23. Hello, I was the one who has the book with the Mil. specs in it. The local print shop wanted 70 bucks to copy it or put it on pdf. So needless to say, I did not have it copied. Thank you for the information!
  24. Hello, I have a bobbin winder, some used hooks, bobbins and some other parts for these machines if you are interested. Send me a pm if ya are. Thanks!
  25. James, You can add a roller foot to this machine. This will help the machine feed much better.
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