ryano

You are very welcome! I hope it I helped you out some.

The reason for using belly leather is that you want the insole (the leather against your foot) to conform to your foot. Did you ever make your shoes, if so, how did they turn out?

I think they look great! How close are they to Landis 1 bobbins? I know they get mixed up quite often here in the States.

Have you looked through this thread yet? https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84911-looking-for-cylinder-arm-for-leatherbag-making-necchi-840-100/

Are the stitches per inch the same both forward and reverse?

I just noticed that there was a discrepancy between the thread chart that I posted my previous post and this chart. I have trust in Bob's chart so I corrected my previous post and changed the word ticket number to V number. The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads. The T sizes represent the "Tex" measurement system, where the number equals the weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, it is a Tex 70 thread. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads. Please note that the "Tkt" (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric "M" thread sizes used in some countries. Smaller numbers indicate heavier threads. Minimum Needle US/Metric Thread Size: V (T) [Ticket] Government Size Yds/Pound Break Strength Diameter 12/80 33 (T30) [Tkt 80] AA 13,800 1.8 lbs .0050" (.127mm) 14/90 46 (T45) [Tkt 60] B 9,600 7.5 lbs .0094" (.238mm) 16/100/ or 18/110 69 (T70) [Tkt 40] E 6,000 11 lbs .0115" (.292mm) 19/120 92 (T90) [Tkt 30] F 4,200 14.5 lbs .0133" (.337mm) 22/140 138 (T135) [Tkt 20] FF 3,000 22 lbs .0163" (.414mm) 23/160 207 (T210) [Tkt 15] 3 Cord 2,000 32 lbs .0200" (.508mm) 25/200 277 (T270) [Tkt 10] 4 Cord 1,500 45 lbs .0231" (.586mm) 26/220 346 (T350) [Tkt 8] 5 Cord 1,200 53 lbs .0258" (.655mm) 27/250 415 (T400) [Tkt 7] 6 Cord 1,050 72 lbs .0283" (.718mm) 30/330 554 (T600) [Tkt 5] 8 Cord 655 83 lbs .0326" (.828mm

Thread Type Tex Size V number Government Size Yarn Construction (Denier x Ply) Nylon T-70 69 E 210 X 3 T-90 92 F 210 X 4 T-135 138 FF 420 X 3 T-210 207 #3 630 X 3 T-270 277 #4 840 X 3 T-350 346 #5 840 X 4 T-400 415 #6 1260 X 3 T-600 554 #8 1680 X 3 T-700 693 #10 1890 X 3 Polyester T-70 69 E 220 X 3 T-90 92 F 220 X 4 T-135 138 FF 420 X 3 T-210 207 #3 630 X 3 T-270 277 #4 840 X 3 T-350 346 #5 1100 X 3 T-400 415 #6 1300 X 3 T-600 554 #8 1300 X 4 T-700 693 #10 2000 X 3 I should have typed 138 instead of 134. 138 is the V number on the chart which is the same as Tex size 135(T-135) You will see thread size, typed or mentioned, by the V number, by the Tex number or somewhere close, either way folks will know which size you are talking about. I just remember the V number sizes 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346 and 415 because I do not use and thread lower than 69 or higher than 415. A good rule of thumb: The highest number of thread that most industrial sewing machines use, that has a presser foot lift of half inch or less is 138, there is several reasons for this from thread tension to needle size. A good example is if it looks like a Singer 111w, series (flatbed machine) or 153series (referenced as cylinder arm or cylinderbed machine) then 138 is max. If you need to use 207 and up, you need a larger machine with a lift of 5/8 or highe, examples are if the machine looks like a Singer 45k series with 5/8" presser foot lift, a Juki 441 with 3 /4" presser foot lift and it's clones or an Adler 205-370 series an it's clone with each having 3/4" presser foot lift. Of coarse there are many exceptions to the rule of what I mentioned, but what I gave you will give you a large head start, if I explained myself well. Here is a link for what thread to use with what needle: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Tex 500 is way to heavy for this machine, 134 is about the heaviest thread. Here is a site that will explain industrial thread: https://www.servicethread.com/blog/industrial-sewing-thread-sizes-explained

I am looking for several shoe lasts, but boy not that many, I do not even think it would be worth your time to look for 5 or 6 pair. Are the lasts wooden or plastic? The buckle dies are off Single Monk Strap Loafers, the shoe print shaped dies are mid soles, soles, foot beds or a combination of all three. The cut off shoe print looking dies are for inner sole that your foot goes against. Do you happen to know the name of the factory they come out of, knowing what the factory made may aid you in the sale of the items?

I finally found what #2 tool is I have a tool like the #2 tool where the wheel height is adjustable. Whether it is used on soles or books, I think the wheel itself is used to mark the leather. I have seen this wheeled tool used, by 2 shoe makers on youtube, to mark the sole of high end shoes like Allen Edmond's. With having an adjustable wheel height/depth of just over 125", I wonder if it is used for something else other than marking the leather? ?? #2 is a Slide Box Seat Wheel Tool for shoe and boot heal patterns. Here is a link: https://www.carreducker.com/shop/shoe-making/tools/slide-box-seat-wheel/

Tim found exactly what you want, 4mm = 5/32, link below.. It states on the page that the guy used the same set to lace the belt, to me the lace holes look angled so I enlarged the picture and they do look angled, am I seeing things things incorrectly or are they angled? https://makersleathersupply.com/collections/lacing-and-buckstitching-supplies/products/buckstitch-chisels I have a 5/32 chisel in two separate style hand presses. One is a cheap auto feed hole punch machine that Tandy sold years ago and a dedicated chisel in a cast iron hand press type machine, but would take a while. I always put a chisel in my Landis 3, set the stitch length and start feeding it around, works great, I remove the shuttle to do this. Sewing machines can be modified to do a lot hole punching type work.

I have a tool like the #2 tool where the wheel height is adjustable. Whether it is used on soles or books, I think the wheel itself is used to mark the leather. I have seen this wheeled tool used, by 2 shoe makers on youtube, to mark the sole of high end shoes like Allen Edmond's. With having an adjustable wheel height/depth of just over 125", I wonder if it is used for something else other than marking the leather? ??

5/32" (4 mm) wide chisel with what pitch (distance between chisels) or does the pitch even matter? All I can find are 1/8" (3-3-3.1 mm) wide chisel with 5/32" pitch.

Well, thanks for posting his Korean videos.

I forgot to mention that the machine is 600 miles away from me. If I decide to go pick it up, I will be traveling across Ohio, part of NY to Pennsylvania, if anyone needs delivering and can meet me along this route, please let me know. I might as well make it worth my while to go. (bucyrus, oh)US-30 E (to Mansfield)Take I-71 N, I-271 N(to Cleveland), I-90 E and I-86 E to NY-16 S/N Union Street Ext in Olean. Take exit 26 from I-86 E

What kind of machine are you looking for?

Great video, I liked the slicker twirl, that was pretty slick. Lol Thanks!

No, you are not the odd man out, I agree with you, put the watch in a sealed plastic baggy or cover it with plastic and use the watch form the leather.

Great looking quality boots! Can you elaborate on your lasts? Were they wood, plastic, 2 piece, modified cowboy lasts, shoe lasts, munson lasts? What type of sewing machine for the uppers and soles? Thanks!

Welcome, I know your post is kind of old, but again welcome. I am just now getting into work boot making, but have been doing leatherwork fo several years.

9-10 oz belly leather makes good insoles as it forms to your foot. As for out, You can use the shoulder area with no less than 10oz, but the sky's the limit really: a piece of old conveyor belting, buy some cheap flat soles online either leather or rubber, whatever you can sew really. Good luck

I have a 47w68 and the parts manual states that the machine is reversed by the treadle. I really have no idea how the reverse works bc I cannot even find a place to hook a chain and there is no reverse lever. Lol

Aven, I knew that it was used to go around the edge of soles, so the wheel just aides the tool by creating less friction as it goes around the edge of the sole? Why do some of these tools have different coarse straight knurl lines on the wheels? Also why does the part of the tool that smooths out the welt have a small edge landing, almost like the edge guide has an edge guide? I have seen these tools with different wheels patterns (more like knurlings) on them and also have seen them heated and used as decorative markings on the soles of shoes inbetween the stitching and edge of the sole, which is not be the proper use of the tool. Thanks,

#2 is an edge wheel for shoe making or repair. #3 is a metal deburring knife used in machining, etc. #5 looks like a spanner screw driver. #6 has me baffled as I have never seen holes drilled in the flutes like this tool????