ryano

Steve, I was just being a smart a$$ because there is a Champion for sale, on the site, for 1300 bucks. The Landis seems to sell higher than the Champion and American. More people like the Landis because they feed through the front. The Champion and the American feed through the back. I think it just may be preference. I myself, like the Champion and the American because you can see if anything goes wrong. Sorry for the confusion! Ryan

Price reduced because I forgot someone had painted it john deere green. People and their spay bombs! lol I will take $450.00 for it plus shipping. The only reason I'm selling it is because I own a Champion splitter. No need to keep this cheap thing around sinse I now know the value of my Champion now! lol

$549.00 or best offer. plus shipping. Pictures on request. Thanks! jo386001@gmail.com

Is this the 6 inch model that frequently comes up for sale? Just wondering why this one is worth 1300 bucks? This is truly an honest question. Thanks!

Great find! The cutter is an American sole cutter and skiver. Very useful tool. Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine has parts for these machines. They located in Toledo, Ohio 866-362-7397. Good luck and happy sewing!

Thanks CS. I am still looking.

Well I guess a better question would be; how thick of leather would you like to have. Would you like to have it firm? I looked a few up, but the thickness was not in the description. If I were going to make one for myself I would like it somewhat stout.

Where are you located? Also what is your major and college? Just wondering, I graduated from Ohio University and know what is is like to eat noodles for every meal and beer bread. What kind of leather were you wanting? Like an upholstery type or chap type leather? Do you want handles or straps to carry the bag? Color? Thanks!

I took a look at your website to see the kind of work you do and the 105-64 seems to fit. However; Both machines have their limitations and we are not comparing apples to apples here. The 7-33 will sew twice the thickness that the 105-64 will sew. But the 7-33 has funny vibrating presser foot that feeds the material and is not a positive feed machine. The 105-64 is limited because it does not have a jump foot to let thicker material advance though the machine. I think the 105-64 is more practical being it is a cylinder arm machine. So if I had to pick and choose, the 105-64 would have to stay. The 7-33 get put up for sale between 800-1500 bucks. That's just from what I've seen on ebay. I don't know for sure what they are worth.

7-33 is a very tough, heavy duty stitcher with a vibrating foot. The needle system is 7x3 round point and 794 leather point. Here is the instruction manual: http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/7-33.pdf Parts manual: http://parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/7-31_33_41.pdf By the way I have an old side hack for my old shovel that I have never mounted. I am going to mount it this winter. The first time it has been mounted in 20 years.

Boy those are pretty high priced machines that need a whole lot of cleaning up. Hell you would have to put another 2 grand in these machines along with countless hours of polishing and tracking down parts. Wow! Sorry for the comments and the venting, but d@mn these people here are not industrial sized companies with money too through away here.

So there is no makers mark under the fender huh. Looks neat though!

Hello, If you need any parts machined for your stitchers, speak now or forever hold your piece. This is a one time deal while my machine is apart. I have a wide throat and am going to machine a few parts for it. Let me know on this forum what you need and I will see if I can help you out. Also the parts that I am machining will also be creates in Autodesk Inventor 3D software for record keeping and for referance at a later date if need be. I just want to help people on this forum only, No sewing machine companies or buddies of buddies. Thanks, Ryan

Hello, I think back stitching looks absolutely horrid in leather when the stitch is a visible top stitch. At the end of the stitch, leave enough slack to pull the top thread through to the bottom so both pieces of thread are on the same side. I then tie the thread off with a double wrap square knot. Easy search on Google under surgical knots.

Well I took the Champion apart today. I have to replace 3 rollers that are 7/16 i.d x 3/4 o.d. x 1/2 long. Two are the thread loop cam rollers for the top side and the third one is for the thread opener on the bobbin side. Bob Kovar is checking to see if he the parts for me. If not, I can use hardened sleeve bushings (a.k.a. drill bushing) with a coolant hole in them. I will use the hole for an oil hole. I hope to have it sewing by the end of the week. Depends on how much I eat on Thursday! lol The machine is black and the pictures are not turning out very good at all. I guess I will just take pictures of it sewing when I get it finished. I may take it the rest of the way apart and blast and paint it. This is undecided at this point in time.

They are owned by Amish.

Hello, My girlfriend had to do a project for college and chose to do it on the Amish in our Ohio area. Enjoy the pictures! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0w_P6ogSIx0 Thanks, Ryan

Sounds like you need 3 machines. A foot press for the eyelets, grommets etc., a number 2 machine and an imprinting machine. The number 2 machine does not do well with tubular rivets. No tubular dies were made that I am aware of. It is more for setting spots, staples, prong rivets (they are like spots with the two barbs). Also stay away from the Alu. ones because they wear too easy. Stick with the cast iron ones. Hope this helps some.

Canoeguy, Are you using a wedge point needle by chance? My Singer 211 sews 207, with a 23 needle, in 2 layers of 8 oz dry leather as long as I am using a wedge point needle. I have tried to cheat and use a round point needle and it starts fraying and breaking the thread. The rubber coated nylon needs more tension than leather, but should still be able to do it I would think with the round point needle. My Singer does.

Heavy duty cylinder arm sewing machine, head only. Sews 3/4 inch leather. Has brand new hook and race. Old parts go with it. Sews very well and is very good shape. $1850.00 obo. Kenton, Oh 43326 567-674-5408 http://industrialsewingmachineman.com/machines/mach.asp?dir=sewmach&brand=Consew&model=756R&ProductType=Industrial+Straight+Stitch+Machines

From what I've found on the net, the 97-10 seems to be selling between 2500-3500. What model of Singer 144 do you have? I am heading to Athens in a couple of weeks to see some friends that planted themselves there after college. Do you mind if I come visit your shop? Thanks, Ryan

What are you upgrading to? I have one and wouldn't trade it for any new sewing machine. I haven't sewn on a nicer eyed needle machine than 97-10. Just wondering why you are getting rid of it? By the way, Go Bobcats! I graduated from OU, Ross College of Engineering. I think of Athens quite often. I spent too much time in the Smiling Skull when I was there! lol Do you ever do any work for Uncle Bucks or Chris Wolf (aka Wolfie and Detroit) owner of the Skull?

You're very welcome.

Well I figured the beast out and got it to sew. It did not sew very well though. The bottom stitch looked great and the top, well not so great. I am having a problem with the bobbin tension. The tension spring looks to have too large of a groove worn in it. The tension springs very tiny, 1/64-48. I now have all 3 of my bobbin cases soaking in solution too make sure the screws will come loose. This machine also has a funny way of timing it I might add, It has a very big problem also. This is a very tight machine and it still needs to be tore completely down because it has one roller that looks to have stopped rolling somewhat and has several flat spots. This happens to be the roller that loops the bottom thread so the hook can grab it. Whatever you do, do not ever grease the rollers! My next post will include pictures.

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