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Hello, Do you still have it? If so, what do you want for it?

Are these numbers correct? Singer 111WSV14 Can't find any info on it. Thanks!

Landis sales and service has them. 217-543-3464

They are an awesome machine. I am looking for one right now. You will get spoiled on this machine compared to the Adler. Enjoy!

When the needle gets dull or a bur. You can usually stone the bur off, if it's not too bad.

CD, The riveters take the #1(104) rivets which have a 5/16 head and a .140" body. I would use brass or chrome brass rivets. They are available from Weaver's, Beiler's and many more places. This is the standard size rivet for leather. You can still use the 1/8" rivets if you like though. Just a little FYI.

Hello, I have been super busy the past couple of days and have not had time to post any pictures of the different anvils. It should calm down by the end of the week. The pictures will answer the question about the Model T riveter. Because the Rex riveter with the tube and the upper drive anvil is not the correct riveter to set the rivets for brake linings. Here is an ebay link to the correct hand operated riveter for brake linings. It allows the rivet to be set below the surface of the brake lining: http://cgi.ebay.com/lg-old-vintage-acme-riveter-farm-leather-rivet-tool_W0QQitemZ120537892643QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFolk_Art?hash=item1c109e4723

Bruce and Kate, Short on time here, but wanted to let you know to take your riveter apart first to see how it connects up top by the handle. There were 2 different kinds made. One anvil is threaded and the other one isn't. I will take some pictures of the different styles of riveters later tonight. Kate, something can be done with your wall mounted riveter so you can use it. I will explain later. Gotta go.

Kate, Yes the tube is pretty long to accomodate 9/16 long rivets. The driver does not fit into this tube, it pushes the tube down rather empty or with material between it. If you put a shorter rivet into the tube, lets say a 1/4 long, the driver will push the tube down and still hit the shorter rivet. The tube should push down for enough to be at the same level as the casting. If it doesn't, rust or crud is stopping it. The wall mount riveter you have is for brake linings. Bruce, The older style rivet drivers just rolled the edges of the rivet over like an eyelet. The newer drivers have 6 circular drill marks in them to splash the rivet into 6 splits and roll them over. The reason for this is it takes less presser to "splash the rivet." Weaver's sells the newer replacement drivers for the Rex riveters for around 14 bucks to splash the rivet.

The long tube is where you put the rivet, head first. NO INSERT. The tube is spring loaded and holds the rivet upright. The anvil is at the top and comes down when you push the handle down, hitting the rivet and splashing the end of the rivet. It uses the 104 rivets that Weaver's sell. No holes need to be punched first, the rivets are self-piercing. These Rex Riveters are for leather, not brake shoes. People had them to repair harness. Brake shoe riveters are of a different design.

Thanks for the link to the great video! It was very interesting to watch and very informative.

Just call Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing machine 866-962-7397 and he will help you out. He will know what you have. My Champion manual covers both the wide throat and the narrow throat.

Hello, I was the one who has the book with the Mil. specs in it. The local print shop wanted 70 bucks to copy it or put it on pdf. So needless to say, I did not have it copied. Thank you for the information!

Hello, I have a bobbin winder, some used hooks, bobbins and some other parts for these machines if you are interested. Send me a pm if ya are. Thanks!

James, You can add a roller foot to this machine. This will help the machine feed much better.

Then you have a Champion narrow throat machine. Toledo Industrial Sewing machine 866-362-7397 can sell you a copy of the manual. They also have some parts. Good luck! Here is a little info on the Champions: http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/articles/Point-Part2.pdf

Here is a picture of a newer style Champion Wide throat stitcher.

Ken, Thanks for the insight and clarification on the machine. I know what you mean about the dealers. Thanks again!

Here is a link to some pictures of the 111s: http://www.industria...ingers/111w.htm Also the manuals are free at www.singerco.com. The manuals explain what the intended use is for the machines.

I do not have one, nor have I seen one in person, but a fellow I know very well in the leather machine industry, said the machine has a very weak upper thread tension mechanism. One set of tension disks are not enough for sewing very thick material. Just something to look into. Good luck!

Glad you got it, but from looking at your pictures, the machine does not look like it is threaded correctly at all. I hope you also got that straightened out.

I use 138 in my 29-4 all the time with no problem whatsoever.

Here is a little bit of information and I attached a picture. http://www.industria.../singer/45b.htm

Schmetz quit making the 331LR needles and they are becoming very expensive and getting really hard to find. This is also the the same needle system for the Landis 1 machine.

If you are wanting to lock the thread, then do not use a silicone lube. I would use Frankel stitching wax or Selari's stitching wax. Frankel is made by Fiebings. I, myself, do not like using silicone lube in anything made for a horse because I like to lock the thread.