ryano

Kate, Yes the tube is pretty long to accomodate 9/16 long rivets. The driver does not fit into this tube, it pushes the tube down rather empty or with material between it. If you put a shorter rivet into the tube, lets say a 1/4 long, the driver will push the tube down and still hit the shorter rivet. The tube should push down for enough to be at the same level as the casting. If it doesn't, rust or crud is stopping it. The wall mount riveter you have is for brake linings. Bruce, The older style rivet drivers just rolled the edges of the rivet over like an eyelet. The newer drivers have 6 circular drill marks in them to splash the rivet into 6 splits and roll them over. The reason for this is it takes less presser to "splash the rivet." Weaver's sells the newer replacement drivers for the Rex riveters for around 14 bucks to splash the rivet.

The long tube is where you put the rivet, head first. NO INSERT. The tube is spring loaded and holds the rivet upright. The anvil is at the top and comes down when you push the handle down, hitting the rivet and splashing the end of the rivet. It uses the 104 rivets that Weaver's sell. No holes need to be punched first, the rivets are self-piercing. These Rex Riveters are for leather, not brake shoes. People had them to repair harness. Brake shoe riveters are of a different design.

Thanks for the link to the great video! It was very interesting to watch and very informative.

Just call Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing machine 866-962-7397 and he will help you out. He will know what you have. My Champion manual covers both the wide throat and the narrow throat.

Hello, I was the one who has the book with the Mil. specs in it. The local print shop wanted 70 bucks to copy it or put it on pdf. So needless to say, I did not have it copied. Thank you for the information!

Hello, I have a bobbin winder, some used hooks, bobbins and some other parts for these machines if you are interested. Send me a pm if ya are. Thanks!

James, You can add a roller foot to this machine. This will help the machine feed much better.

Then you have a Champion narrow throat machine. Toledo Industrial Sewing machine 866-362-7397 can sell you a copy of the manual. They also have some parts. Good luck! Here is a little info on the Champions: http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/articles/Point-Part2.pdf

Here is a picture of a newer style Champion Wide throat stitcher.

Ken, Thanks for the insight and clarification on the machine. I know what you mean about the dealers. Thanks again!

Here is a link to some pictures of the 111s: http://www.industria...ingers/111w.htm Also the manuals are free at www.singerco.com. The manuals explain what the intended use is for the machines.

I do not have one, nor have I seen one in person, but a fellow I know very well in the leather machine industry, said the machine has a very weak upper thread tension mechanism. One set of tension disks are not enough for sewing very thick material. Just something to look into. Good luck!

Glad you got it, but from looking at your pictures, the machine does not look like it is threaded correctly at all. I hope you also got that straightened out.

I use 138 in my 29-4 all the time with no problem whatsoever.

Here is a little bit of information and I attached a picture. http://www.industria.../singer/45b.htm

Schmetz quit making the 331LR needles and they are becoming very expensive and getting really hard to find. This is also the the same needle system for the Landis 1 machine.

If you are wanting to lock the thread, then do not use a silicone lube. I would use Frankel stitching wax or Selari's stitching wax. Frankel is made by Fiebings. I, myself, do not like using silicone lube in anything made for a horse because I like to lock the thread.

I use Frankel Stitching wax made by Feibings. It does not clog up the machine. When it starts to solidify I add just a little bit of ammonia and stir it around. I really like it.

Hey I found the corner stitching thread you were referring to. It also mentions grinding the awl. Kind of ironic, I posted it. lol Here is the link: http://leatherworker...showtopic=19908

Hello, I was told the old diamond point needles were used for sewing soles on shoes and costly to manufacture. The new style needle is just easier to manufacture. This is just word of mouth though. Don't know how accurate the information it is. I attached a Campbell stitcher attachment brochure that has the box stitching attachment in the lower left corner. Don't know about regrinding the awl, but I do know the foot has to be removed to sew this way. This is all the information I have. Take care and good luck! CHS-Brochure.pdf CHS-Brochure.pdf

I have never seen one of these before. Pretty neat machine though. Is there any way you can add another picture that does not blow up so big. Really hard to get a good look at it. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the information Darcy. Greatly appreciated!

I am in need of a really good needle bar and needle bar race for a Landis 3 stitcher. The race is the fan shaped piece that the needle bar rides in. Keep in mind that the needle bar is at the bottom. Thanks! 567-674-5408 jo386001@gmail.com

Machine has been sold