ryano

The press and jig are from Beiler's Supply in Ronks, Pa., Call and ask for their supply catalog. ph. 717-768-0174

I just heard, not to long ago, Preston passed away. Someone must have the right to print it the book, the book looks like it was printed at a local print shop, but is a great book for Market Style Harness. Not sure what it would cost to have it copied.

The Allies bombed the factory in WW2 and the machine was never made again.

Anymore pictures? Not sure what the middle machine is nor the back two are.. The machine to the left and the right are not leather related tools, but light gauge sheet metal tools as Bruce pointed out.

Is it out of print now? Shoptalk magazine use to sell them, which is the guy who wrote the book.

Looking for a unicorn here, Wanting to purchase a hand operated insole channeling machine for the operation of channeling the midsole for the process of inseaming welted boots and shoes. I just missed a German made machine that was for sale on some website, I saw one being used by a White's Boots employee on a youtube collaboration video between White's Boots and Rose Anvil. Any help or leads will be greatly appreciated. Please PM me with details, I can either pay for or may have something for trade. Examples below with the green one being German and the drawing is American and the one used on the White's and Role Anvil collaboration video. Thank you!

I see this is an old post with a pre 1940 Harley seat pan with no vent holes. I have a few questions, one being how did you stretch the leather to form the leather around the nose area, what size thread was used and what sewing machine? ps: The seat looks darn good! Thanks!

I am getting ready to build a couple pairs of boots, but still need to decide on a couple of things. I have gotten one set of lasts in, but the toe length is very short by almost an inch. I have been in contact with a British last maker, but they do not seem to be in a hurry to get things done by taking forever to send and reply emails. I am curious on how you made your footbed and what tools you used. Lisa Sorrell makes a very convincing argument on how she makes her footbeds by using a cheap stitch groover, a seaming awl and a leather knife; she does not use a welt knife, a feathering knife nor even a welt channel plough as she does construct a typical holdfast. I see you went with Dr Sole half soles. I really like their soles and the colors they offer, but I run into issues with them not having the size and color of sole that I want and if they have the soles, they do not have the heels in that size, I am mainly refering to the red/brown color options and the green options, shipping is also pretty high coming from Vietnam. I would be interested in reading more on the particulars of the construction of your boots. Thank you!

I was always told that hose lines are fat wrinkles, The fibers will be a little more loose and stretchy in that area.

I apply dye and leather balm with atom wax with separate pieces of shearling, defuzz it first, I use the clothes dryer to do the defuzzing, Be sure to wash the piece of the shearing with the atom wax to reuse it. You can get the atom wax in several colors and I use black for MC bags and it leaves a nice satin finish.l let the dye dry first, wipe off the residue then apply the atom wax finish. As far as acrylic finished go, I really like Weaver's Tuff Coat, it comes in clear or black.I wet a sponge to apply WT, I squeeze the water out leaving sponge still wet, but not dripping wet, put the sponbe over the bottle and do a quick flip to get the finish on the sponge. In my opinion, I truly believe Angelus makes the best dyes and finishes, you can get the finish in any color, they have finish like atom wax and several types of acrylic finishes. Their dye is super penetrating and can even dye an edge slicked with gum tragacanth. They also have great leather paint.They also have an acrylic antique finish.

That is he, and he does have a video on quilting, he glued the linen onto the foam. I do not have a good source for the foam anymore, there are different grades of linen applied to the sew foam, but I never had any issues with the low grade linen, actually I think it may be by thread count. There is an Amish buggy shop just down the road from Weaver Leather that use carry it, but I cannot remember their name, but Cowboybob or sewmun may know, they may also know a good soarce, all you can do is as them as they are father and son that owns Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine. Have you asked your leather source about sewfoam? I use the memory foam, like mentioned in the above post, to redo old Harley and Indian seats. I have never quilted with it, but again you would have to glue linen on it. Good luck and practice with cheap vinyl upholstery as it will act almost the same as your leather.

Gavin, The product usually used to get the quilting effect is sewfoam, it is foam with cloth glued on it so the stitching does not pull through. To get the quilted effect and not have the quilting sewn to the liner, sewfoam is it, if you do want the quilting sewn into your linet, then just use foam. You can make sew foam by spray gluing old sheets to the foam or super cheap and thin linen. Now you have to add a shrinking allowance to your cut leather as it shrinks as it gets sewn, be sure to glue the foam to the leather and start stitching in the center and work your way out. Practice to get your shrinking allowances, there is a Latino gentleman on youtube that does a great job teaching and he does not say a word, he does a great job with leather upholstery, i will try to find him and give you the link. Good luck,

What is the thin, flat piece of metal, held down with the vertical slotted screw, just to the right of the arrow shaft, opposite the arrow point? The part looks like it may have a part number on it.

Those dies look pretty odd to me, especially the one with the retaining spring. I saw where a metric conversion converted the outside 24 line snap as 15mm, but did not show conversions of the 2 interlocking pieces, so I would be afraid to try them. Also beware of plastic die listings, they will surely fail. Used dies get listed, on ebay, one in awhile under United Carr. Here is a set of 24 line snap dies that look correct and is only 25% of the usual price of 100 bucks, as you can see look a little different than the ones you posted the link for. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIE-SET-FOR-HEAVY-DUTY-MIGHTY-SNAP-SIZE-24-5-8-FREE-SHIPPING-USA/264745077024?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3da4094920:g:UGoAAOSwO9ZezpAq&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkXKoKcbeZcOrOku%2BoOBl%2BSxuMciqcoA0WrBomRi4LsqlaDIcA9UrZpXteVa%2FizpLLQVGAyGgtCq0MIjZG2M%2FHVhM5K1BMRvvrqaBHqeXdKK7vx5yRw%2By2zbJ2dze1m8ERco8CkyjdywrXZ23y%2FKFWFIPPsxzn%2FEB80PhQTTDT4DlA8ZWAXQcDRYJNkpZlZMY%2Bd%2FpdRuYJpL8NHrBKVTm%2FR5CFIS70Np6Ovu6qfkkJXLEt2sxJRvbYZhUARJLt2Rz1ZGe3kGjPUzGhtkuBt0U6lOBYteXnZLmzKmq6TmuZ5qJEkQMeW%2FtcBVzvZExeRSMMnEpzsEqUiMJb3gqp5PnJduMoYaHO7MrdSRYRftUS46Ig%2FVmydVbCrFRy%2BA8YBvmsruVTC967c16yHdhvkvHMRkg81hboAcmMAdeDx%2FHqQRNTxKbcB7tGP8wL%2F8l1HwpN5wa0Zvmmk%2BD12xFASnyeHPbNEAqmbd1ltwvjjBLRkt0BFt1DyLxrvmIautl0NjdQwvUXBxU9wl%2FrupPh5ZhI7cSJhaSsCPHy5cBHj4gUmaAC4VGTR9X1q58L4SQz13tGMwt1CvbwgZLrCzRyVUwiFsdAiEJdokkTg8oqnswBmYsk18toKb2v7%2BdS0DqGJzFDh3f5DSR9ehuxyStyYGEysMpYc3wKzOkRqbcvjlY222hXuXAsI9E60moevMPQeUKFLJOQ7hrnzxvfpx4wEmZMHiXVkrI6D5P974ev1rlQnsQYG5eMcEByfPrwEqpXB4aR%2B2jycdIGjkjO6p9j1Zu9yQ%3D%3D|cksum%3A264745077024581f3c6bb92c47c1a7c046fa6f069d7a|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

I will look for some line 24 snap dies a little later today.

Another name for the snaps you using is Segma Snaps. I just found this search, has everything you need and you will have enough money left for over for a coffee. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hand-Press-Machine-Snap-Button-Grommet-Rivets-Eyelets-Fastener-Dies-Mold-Set-DIY/124424546080?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D0f8d709abb764719a70dfbb227467871%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D392918784131%26itm%3D124424546080%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598

Here is an ebay search that should help with what you are looking for. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=hand+press&_sacat=0&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1 Just past the juice presses is a set of 3 snap dies.

The Amazon price is too much. What size snaps are you setting, line 20, line 24?

You are very welcome! I hope it I helped you out some.

The reason for using belly leather is that you want the insole (the leather against your foot) to conform to your foot. Did you ever make your shoes, if so, how did they turn out?

I think they look great! How close are they to Landis 1 bobbins? I know they get mixed up quite often here in the States.

Have you looked through this thread yet? https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/84911-looking-for-cylinder-arm-for-leatherbag-making-necchi-840-100/

Are the stitches per inch the same both forward and reverse?

I just noticed that there was a discrepancy between the thread chart that I posted my previous post and this chart. I have trust in Bob's chart so I corrected my previous post and changed the word ticket number to V number. The V size is the common US measurement for twisted, multi-ply bonded nylon or polyester threads. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads. The T sizes represent the "Tex" measurement system, where the number equals the weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 70 grams, it is a Tex 70 thread. Larger numbers indicate heavier threads. Please note that the "Tkt" (Ticket) sizes are equivalent to Metric "M" thread sizes used in some countries. Smaller numbers indicate heavier threads. Minimum Needle US/Metric Thread Size: V (T) [Ticket] Government Size Yds/Pound Break Strength Diameter 12/80 33 (T30) [Tkt 80] AA 13,800 1.8 lbs .0050" (.127mm) 14/90 46 (T45) [Tkt 60] B 9,600 7.5 lbs .0094" (.238mm) 16/100/ or 18/110 69 (T70) [Tkt 40] E 6,000 11 lbs .0115" (.292mm) 19/120 92 (T90) [Tkt 30] F 4,200 14.5 lbs .0133" (.337mm) 22/140 138 (T135) [Tkt 20] FF 3,000 22 lbs .0163" (.414mm) 23/160 207 (T210) [Tkt 15] 3 Cord 2,000 32 lbs .0200" (.508mm) 25/200 277 (T270) [Tkt 10] 4 Cord 1,500 45 lbs .0231" (.586mm) 26/220 346 (T350) [Tkt 8] 5 Cord 1,200 53 lbs .0258" (.655mm) 27/250 415 (T400) [Tkt 7] 6 Cord 1,050 72 lbs .0283" (.718mm) 30/330 554 (T600) [Tkt 5] 8 Cord 655 83 lbs .0326" (.828mm

Thread Type Tex Size V number Government Size Yarn Construction (Denier x Ply) Nylon T-70 69 E 210 X 3 T-90 92 F 210 X 4 T-135 138 FF 420 X 3 T-210 207 #3 630 X 3 T-270 277 #4 840 X 3 T-350 346 #5 840 X 4 T-400 415 #6 1260 X 3 T-600 554 #8 1680 X 3 T-700 693 #10 1890 X 3 Polyester T-70 69 E 220 X 3 T-90 92 F 220 X 4 T-135 138 FF 420 X 3 T-210 207 #3 630 X 3 T-270 277 #4 840 X 3 T-350 346 #5 1100 X 3 T-400 415 #6 1300 X 3 T-600 554 #8 1300 X 4 T-700 693 #10 2000 X 3 I should have typed 138 instead of 134. 138 is the V number on the chart which is the same as Tex size 135(T-135) You will see thread size, typed or mentioned, by the V number, by the Tex number or somewhere close, either way folks will know which size you are talking about. I just remember the V number sizes 69, 92, 138, 207, 277, 346 and 415 because I do not use and thread lower than 69 or higher than 415. A good rule of thumb: The highest number of thread that most industrial sewing machines use, that has a presser foot lift of half inch or less is 138, there is several reasons for this from thread tension to needle size. A good example is if it looks like a Singer 111w, series (flatbed machine) or 153series (referenced as cylinder arm or cylinderbed machine) then 138 is max. If you need to use 207 and up, you need a larger machine with a lift of 5/8 or highe, examples are if the machine looks like a Singer 45k series with 5/8" presser foot lift, a Juki 441 with 3 /4" presser foot lift and it's clones or an Adler 205-370 series an it's clone with each having 3/4" presser foot lift. Of coarse there are many exceptions to the rule of what I mentioned, but what I gave you will give you a large head start, if I explained myself well. Here is a link for what thread to use with what needle: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html