ryano

I use Frankel Stitching wax made by Feibings. It does not clog up the machine. When it starts to solidify I add just a little bit of ammonia and stir it around. I really like it.

Hey I found the corner stitching thread you were referring to. It also mentions grinding the awl. Kind of ironic, I posted it. lol Here is the link: http://leatherworker...showtopic=19908

Hello, I was told the old diamond point needles were used for sewing soles on shoes and costly to manufacture. The new style needle is just easier to manufacture. This is just word of mouth though. Don't know how accurate the information it is. I attached a Campbell stitcher attachment brochure that has the box stitching attachment in the lower left corner. Don't know about regrinding the awl, but I do know the foot has to be removed to sew this way. This is all the information I have. Take care and good luck! CHS-Brochure.pdf CHS-Brochure.pdf

I have never seen one of these before. Pretty neat machine though. Is there any way you can add another picture that does not blow up so big. Really hard to get a good look at it. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks for the information Darcy. Greatly appreciated!

I am in need of a really good needle bar and needle bar race for a Landis 3 stitcher. The race is the fan shaped piece that the needle bar rides in. Keep in mind that the needle bar is at the bottom. Thanks! 567-674-5408 jo386001@gmail.com

Machine has been sold

It is also mine! lol I do have a Landis 3 though.

Hello, I am looking for any Landis 3 attachments. I need feet, roller guides and brackets, lower knife attachment, power stand, loopers, needles and awls. Just about everything. Thanks, Ryano

Hello, You can send them back to Weaver's and they will give you your money back. I am sure they will.

Greetings Jim, The old U.S. Army manual I have is very neat. It has many different kinds of sewing machine repair manuals enclosed between it's covers. Anyone who has a 111w should have one of these. All the machines are Singer. It also explains how to sew many different items and materials. I will see how much it will cost to get it copied. The local print shop is very reasonable and do a great job. It would be nice to have it put on a cd. Well take care and have a great weekend. It is a deep freeze in my neck of the woods. Ryan

I have an old army sewing and sewing machine book that that tells you, how to start and stop the stitch, and not to back stitch on leather. To end you step over one stitch and come back 5 stitches and trim to surface. You start the same way. Keep in mind that stitching wax is used.

Toledo Industrial Machine (Sewmun) 866-362-7397 sells a portable walking foot machine. Not sure on the make or the price. Just know he sells one.

Jim, Thank you for your reply and valuable information. I stated the false information was about the 97-10 and harness only, not the rest of the information. The needle groove is one and a half inches on the 794 needles and that's why I wanted to know why only 5/8 on the 97-10 machine. Buying a new machine is not always the answer though. These are super big investments as you well know. The dealers on the site are very good on letting people know what other options are out there. They all seem to play well together too, so to speak. I know the clones are very versatile on materials. I also know they are an all around good machine for the price and the beginner. With all machines, there are jobs they are not suited for. I know there is one dealer working hard on getting different attachments made up for his machines. As far as reverse is concerned, heavy leather stitchers do not need reverse when you are using a leather needle. Back stitching cuts the thread. This one is always up for debate. People on the site have said the leather needle does not cut their thread on back stitching. I just know mine cuts the thread on back stitching. So I use stitching wax and sew to 1960's military specs. I understand what you mean about the learning curve also. It's not just with the needle and awl stitchers, but sewing with a machine in general. Then there is the knowledge about the materials, sewing allowance, tools and so on and so on. This stuff is not easy. I did not mean to step on anyone's toes here and apologize if I did. I do not think there was any known misguided information either. Sometimes it is hard to type what you want to say because you cannot show any emotion. Thanks again for taking the time to respond Jim. Best regards, Ryan Osborn

Hello, It is adjustable. The stud, thumb screw, clicker board and the mounting brackets are not in that illustration. The threaded hole for the stud is there though. I will give an updated illustration with all the hardware very soon.

If you are going to be sewing leather items only, I would go with a Randall/ Campbell type leather stitcher. There is nothing on the market today that has a nicer or tighter stitch.

If you read Feibings dye chart, It says that white and gray dyes are not compatible with any of their other dyes. The white and gray are not worth a darn.

I use Sheps 100% Neatsfoot oil and Beilers 100% neatsfoot oil. I then use Weavers tuff coat. They sell it in black and clear. How do you apply your oil, Ryan?

I use Feibings 306 black dye. It is for dying harness leather and works great. Does not have that nasty smell like the pro dye. Call Feibings and ask for a free sample. They are very good on giving samples. I buy my 306 from Beilers Supply 717-768-0174

Give Keith Pommer a call: 605-372-4523 Good luck in your search!

I am thinking about making a few of them. I made up prints for a machine. Here is a partial rending of the press. Have not calculated a cost as of yet.

Here is an illustration of the round breaking rolls that I make. "For forming the strap ready to receive the filling so they may be easily sewed up on the machine. These rolls are made so they may be slipped on the ends of the shaft on any creasing machines. They are made with a toothed flange, which holds the center of the strap and forms a perfect seat for the filling, and not only saves a great deal of time in preparing a round, but puts it in much better shape than it is possible by hand." (Improved Harness Machinery, International Harness Machinery Co., p. 7) The breakers are sized by the strap width for example 1" and 7/8". Hope this helps. The upper roll is knurled to aid in pulling the strap through the breakers. The knurls are not rendered in my illustration.