ryano

#2 is an edge wheel for shoe making or repair. #3 is a metal deburring knife used in machining, etc. #5 looks like a spanner screw driver. #6 has me baffled as I have never seen holes drilled in the flutes like this tool????

Ray, I know this is an old post, but did you find what you needed? I think I have the model you are looking for.

This is a 3 in 1 without the skiver on it.

So how did your machine sew with this adapter? I have a singer 111w100 I may dig out and use to sew some shoe uppers, if not I may go ahead and use my cylinder arm 47w68 that I put a roller foot on. I have a Singer 43-5 that has a square presser foot vibrating foot that I would like to put a roller foot on as well, I have found a roller foot for a Singer11-33 that has a square pressure foot vibrating bar, but I think the bar is larger than the 43-5 which is the same size bar as a Singer 16 serious. Did you catch all that? Lol Thank you!

Collar, dog and tree looks very nice! What's in the barrel, rum? Lol

How available are these machines here in the states, as I have never seen one in person? How do they compare to the Landis 12? I think the Forbona is a really neat machine and neat thread!

I have cut v belts and put them back together with hog rings that have held up for a very long time to save from buying a belt. Building a jackshaft, plus buying a belt can really add up. I wish I could help you on shaft size, I really think it is 1/2" but can't bet on it since it is made in japan, so it may be 13mm. Maybe Bob will chime in soon.

Very nice looking picture frame, such wonderful work!

Great job on your work. A small tannery, near me, tans African hides from all over the world.

Another option is to buy a servo motor.

Merry Christmas, Firstly, I sure hope you will live long enough to put well over 8 hours on it. If you leave it sit for that long of time, i would oil it every time you use it and do not use 3 in 1 oil. I always oil my machine the day before using, every night if sewing daily and put a rag under the needle to collect oil that drips over night. I oil the hook and bobbin case every bobbin change no matter what size of bobbin. Your machine should turn over very freely with the handwheel, if it does not, the clutch arm may need adjusted, one way to check this is to remove the belt and see how it turns over, if it turns over a lot more free, then the clutch may need adjusted, what does your brother in law think? Sewmun aka Bob Kovar should know shaft size or have a fix, pulley etc. if you still need aid in turning your machine over.

Merry Christmas to all from the cold. Lol

Oh, wow! What a great looking and super neat pair of chaps! Thanks for sharing your exquisite work!

That is a lot of cash for that machine. Are you going to share your profits with the guys that helped you, I mean their time is money as well when it comes to sales? We would have helped anyway, but I am sure they would have liked to know you were going to sell it. i am pretty sure they feel used. It kind of reminds of this Amish saying he really needed this old bench vise, pleated, begged so it go handed to him, just to see it in his auction the following week, when he was confronted, he said he just needed it for his auction.

Hillside Harness 330-893-1510 between 8:00am-10:30am EST. 4205 TR 629. Millersburg, Oh 44654 They are Amish, so call and ask for their catalog between said time. They make a good share of their hardware and have an endless supply of hardware molds. They do have some hardware made in China, but it is listed as so. They also seam to have the best pricing and the pricing gets lower with quantity. Great supplies, leather and finishes as well. Weaver's leather sells hardware they have made in China, also very expensive retail pricing if you do not have an account, whole sale if you do.

Yes, I have a picture, but not quite sure how to load it. I click on the attachment and it only reads documents, camera, and loaded pictures, it does not have a button for pictures, which would make it a little easier i must have to load pictures elsewhere first.little My binder looks like yours, but mine has.the top edge guide and is on a 6" or 8" W & G stand. I watched the guy sew bind his last hat with my machine, unbolt it and sold it to me for mere pennies. I also bought a Singer 46w68 with added roller foot and "reversing mechanism operated by foot treadle," which I cannot figure out how it goes into reverse, but it sews wonderfully. I will figure how to load pictures and will add it. What do you use your machine for, if you use it. I watched a youtube video of a guy making a straw hat and it really amazed me, I missed that part at the hat shop.

My raised work former is an International, not a Randall.

I looked at my machine and it has a top mounted edge guide and a binder mounted on the side.

Here is a link showing inline presser feet. I have a Randall creaser for raised work up to 1.25" wide, it is pretty neat, one side forms the top piece and the other side forms it after the 2 pieces are sewn. Do you have one as well? https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/76502-inline-cowboy-presser-feet-on-cowboy-cb4500/?tab=comments#comment-505225

I have the same W&G machije and it is sitting on a 6 or 8 inch stand. I got it at an Amish place that makes straw hats. They sure had a bunch of them, but this was about ten years ago. We always picked up a full truck load of hats. Let me know if you need any anything that I could help you with.

There are specialized machines for making fringe that sit on an industrial sewing stand and use a clutch motor, one in mind is a Chandler model.802 fringe cutting machine. There are also some foreign models. This is an old listing for a Chandler, just click on it and it will take to the old listing. I did not want to bring in the picture, that cropped somehow or the video at the bottom, but here you go anyways. Here is a video of a guy making fringe with a strap cutter,

I do understand setting upside down on straps or belts, but I rarely just set spots on belts or straps in a linear line. The crystals and stones I use do not fall apart??? One other thing is the setters I use are nominal in size, so if the spot is 1/2" , then tje setter is .50" The are oversized/ sprung on the prongs to stay in the setter without falling out.

Thanks for the laugh! My thoughts coincide with yours exactly. Heck, I would buy an old Singer 153-101 or equivalent with reverse by Singer, Juki or pfaff, I would even go for a Consew 227R and save the rest.. He could even buy a 441 clone for that money. If this is real, Call Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Machine, he will help you out, great guy to deal with!

Thank you! I did see where I responded to someone in early 2016, then everything else was 2012 and earlier. I just got a new leg that is so much better than my first one. The new one I can lock fast at any angle or lock it to not bend any further than that angle, The new leg also locks, while standing and if I stub my toe, so to speak, my first leg I could trip over an ant. So with all that being said, the new leg really helps me out on being able to work around the shop.

When designing the spot setters, the dies should be thin as possible and be parallel to the driver (perpendicular to the work piece) for at least the height and combination of an angle to clear the neighboring spots so the setter will not hit them. So what I am trying to say, for instance, is the setter does not have to be thin for the height of the spot, it can be thin for half the height of the spot and shot away at a 45degree angle to clear the neighboring spots so you would have more material on the setter. The FE Smith setters are mainly stamped out and formed, so tooling would have to be made and you would have stamping machines and lathe work or screw machines for the drivers and anvils. Any other designs could be made on a lathe or screw machines. Some mill work would also be needed. If you are not familiar with screw machines, check them out. They can really spit some parts out very fast.There is a small.screw machine shop near me that does a great job.