doubleh

I'm another that isn't much interested in skulls but that looks good. One of my grandsons hit me up recently to make him a pants belt with skulls and roses. He's got a degree in graphic arts and is really good with pencil drawings so I made him a deal. He draws the pattern he wants and I'll tool a belt using his pattern. I don't do very well drawing anymore as my hands shake too bad to get much done except erasing and cussing so I won't have the frustration of trying to produce a decent pattern.

I use a couple of drum sanders, one with a coarse drum and one with a fine one and just switch them. Saves time and the things are cheap. This last year I turned a steel burnisher on my lathe. It has different width grooves to match what I'm working on. I have no idea why I didn't make one of these years ago. It's not a have to have but it does save time and labor and does a really good job. I like the DeWalt bits to drill holes.

Erwin makes a bi-metal utility knife blade that they say lasts three times as long as regular blades. I have been using these blades for years and they definately out perform the regular blades. Kobalt (Lowes brand of tools) has a curved blade that looks like an electrician's knife blade. I am going to pick up some of these to try out next time I'm around a Lowes store. Don't have a local store so it may be awhile.

I don't do any work except for myself anymore and the only stitched items are holsters and knife sheaths. They make good birthday and Christmas gifts. I use only waxed nylon which is very easy to use and will last close to forever. I get it from S & D Trading Co in Lubbock, TX.

I am fortunate to have two sources for my leather working supplies in the same town. Tandy's and S & D Trading Company. S &D sells only Herman's Oak leather and that is where I go. I don't even know where the Tandy store is located. I quit buying from the old Tandy company long before they folded because of the quaility of their leather and the fact it was always sold as one thickness more than it actually was. From things I have heard and also read on the internet things haven't changed with the new company and I'm not interested in checking them out.

I just drop in to this forum now and so this is my first view of your first holster. It a nice job, especially for the first time.

Very nice, both the sheath and knife.

R H Clark gave you good advise. I glue mine together with Barge's cement because that's what I started with a long time ago and it works. I sand the edges true on a belt sander, run the groover, and then the overstitch wheel. I usually use a 1/4" wheel on sheaths and holsters. Stick your awl in a piece of beeswax before you push it thru the leather every stitch. This helps the awl go and also makes the needle go. On thick leather I use a pair of pliers to pull the needle so I can pull it STRAIGHT thru. Bending the needle a little when pulling it thru the leather will eventually break the eye. After you are finished run the overstitch wheel over the thread to get a smooth, finished look. On really thick projects I drill the holes with a 1/16" bit using a drill press, then use the stabbing awl. It makes it much easier to push the awl thru and I think using the awl gives a smoother stitch than just using the drilled holes.

Like most thing I do now I'm a few days late to this post. Artheritis has really done a number on my joints the last few years so I have devised an easier way to do things than just push the awl thru the leather. I still start out just like I was just using an awl, glue the pieces together, cut the groove and run the overstitch wheel. But then I take the piece to the drill press and drill all the holes with a 1/16" bit. I use a smaller bit when using smaller thread. Then I use the awl with beeswax which makes things a lot easier physically. You can forego the awl and just use the drilled holes but it doesn't look the same as using an awl. The thread seems to lay down smoother in the diamond shaped hole than in a round hole.

Good work. I built one many, many years with full floral carving. One was enough for me.

I like 8/9 or even 9/10 oz. for tooled holsters as I like for my tooling to be deep. For smooth holsters I would back off to 7/8 oz. for smaller guns but stay with 8/9 oz. for larger guns like full size 1911s, single actions, etc. I line any holster I make but the lining leather is so soft it doesn't add any shape holding ability.

I can't comment on the design of an IWB as I have no experience with them. I will say that your graftsmanship is great.

Yes. It's been an off and on thing though.

Making grips isn't as hard as it looks. There is a lot of sanding involved in the way I do it but almost all of it is done with a Dremel. It's pretty fast and easy but it get wood dust everywhere, mostly on me.

Here is another holster I cobbled together awhile ago. More Herman's oak and Al Stholman patterns. It's a right hand crossdraw. The gun is a Ruger Blackhawk in .357 mag. Heavy rascal but but not much recoil. I made the grips from some local mesquite. All we have are bushes but I can find them large enough to make grips and fore end and grip caps from. A crack will usually show up in about any piece. I guess it is from the beatings the bushs take from the high winds we get. You can see the crack in this one. It's the "j" shapes line right under the grip screw. Super glue does a good job on the cracks.

This is a right hand crossdraw holster and a 2" belt for my Colt Series 70 Gold Cup National Match 1911 pistola. Like the others it's made from 9-10 oz. Herman's Oak leather, lined with horsehide, and hand sewn with waxed nylon thread and finished with Neat Lac. The holster and tooling pattern are from Al Stholman's book. I added about 1/4" to each side of the pattern to allow for the addition of the lining leather and the gun fits perfectly.

Thanks. It's slotted and sewn inside.

I just posted a picture of a knife sheath and I found a holster and belt in that bunch of pictures so I though I would add it. Both are made from 9-10 oz. Herman's Oak ( it's GOOD tooling leather) and the holster is lined with horse hide. The pattern on the holster was cobbled up from the Al Stholman pattern used on the belt. A few minutes with a pencil and paper and I had patterns that matched fairly well. The belt was designed with snap-on cartridge loops and the holster fits the Taurus Gaucho pictured and my Super Blackhawk also. Just switch cartridge loops for a snug fit with either 45 Colt or 44 magnum shells. Everything is hand sewn with waxed nylon thread and finished with Neat Lac. I made the grips on the Gaucho from a piece of really old walnut also. The original checkered grips would raise a blister on my hand in 12 shots and they were ugly.

I've been a member of the forum for a couple of years now but I haven't posted any of my work. To tell the truth I don't do much anymore but here is a picture of a sheath I made last summer. I built this knife around 25 years ago for my wife when we were both still deer hunting. The original sheath was getting pretty beat up so I made a new one. It is made from 9-10 oz. Herman's Oak and the pattern is from a Tandy book of belt patterns modified a little to fit. It has a welt and is hand stitched with waxed nylon thread and finished with Neat Lac. I made it to ride high enough to sit in a truck seat while on your belt.

Very nice work.

That is very nice work, Tyrel. I have been a member here for awhile but I think this is my first post. I just wanted to compliment you on your ability. I have tooled a bunch of belts over the years but hardly ever do one anymore but I enjoy looking at nice work.

This is a little late since I joined the forum last year. I just never introduced myself or even posted here. I'm an old retired guy now. I used to do a lot of leatherwork as a second job but finally burned out and didn't do anything for several years except make a floral carved belt once in a while as a gift. Now my interest has kind of rekindled and I have gone back to making a few things as a hobby. I have more trouble seeing what I am doing and my hands are a little shaky at times but I can still do a fairly decent job. I might put up a picture or two of my work later on. It's getting pretty cool here and I need something to keep me out of trouble when it's cold outside.

I just joined the forum a couple of days ago and ran across this topic today. I read all thirteen pages it was so interesting. I learned a lot about the UK and even some things about the US.