doubleh

Even though basket weave has never flipped my switch I have to say that is a superb job in every aspect. It is a five star, bang up job of leather craft. If you don't mind sharing, just how many hours do you have into making that?

Great job and I understand the urge to make your own as I do the same. There is a lot of satisfaction in using a tool that was made by yourself. I also enjoy the making.

Just coating a clean steel or cast iron surface with Johnson's paste wax will keep it rust free but using Johnson's is no longer an option as they ceased production. There are other brands of waxes still available. Bluing steel does not add rust protection and neither does browning. They are simply coloring agents.

Sound like a good idea and I will try it. I believe my wife has some adhesive backed velcro in her sewing supplies. My supply of shrink wrap tubing ran out and I ordered a variety of sizes to build up the diameter of a couple of stamps to where a foam lead pencil grip will fit and will try that also.

I bought a couple of poly mauls, regular and round, awhile back and don't really care either of them. A little longer handle on the regular hammer type one might make it satisfactory but I don't want to go to the trouble of making one. Then my very old Tandy rawhide maul decided it was going to come apart in very small pieces. I replaced it with a Garland since I really didn't like the looks of the new Tandy ones. The Garland will outlast me.

I have already tried the shrink wrap and it helps---a little. I would prefer something little more tactile and durable than bandaids. With the post about polymeric clay appearing while I was typing this post I will give it look-see. It is something I wasn't aware of. Thanks for all the replies.

I use a 1/16" bit. I got the bee's wax trick from a bootmaker I was friends with long ago. Stick the awl in the wax on every hole. It isn't to ease the awl, it's to make the thread needles go easier. I profile my awl needles with a fine tooth file to get a true diamond shape, smooth them down with a fine diamond hone, polish them with 600 and 1000 grit wet or dry paper, and then strop them. Your hand and arm will thank you. Eventually you will need to re-do the point on the blade. Edited to add: I forgot to mention that you did a great job on the sheath.

I took a break from leather work for several years and during that time I cut my thumb severing a nerve and as a result the thumb I use to grip my stamps is numb. That creates something of a problem as they are small and the knurling is fairly slick after they are plated. I am having difficulty keeping the stamp from rotating slightly out of position without me being aware of it because of the lack of feeling. I tried one of the foam pencil grips on one but they are to large to stay in place. Does anyone know if there a source for something that will fit? I haven't been able to run anything down on the internet.

No wonder the USPS keeps losing money. I ordered a bottle of resolene from Amazon to be shipped by USPS last week. Tracking shows in was in my local office last Thursday at 6 AM. All they had to was put in my box. Instead they sent it to El Paso, TX, 238 miles west, southwest of here. Now it is in Midland, TX, 130 miles southeast of here on Saturday. I am curious to know it's next destination and not holding my breath hoping it is here.

Looks very good to me. We have diamondback and prairie rattlers here and I haven't seen one of any size in years.

I drill my holes first to give me a straight stitch line on the back. Then I use the awl. Sick it in a piece of bee's wax to make the needle go, push it thru the drilled hole and stitch. You won't be able to tell there was any drilling done and it surely lessens the effort of pushing the awl.

The maker didn't bother to get a straight grind on one side. I suppose if it cuts well and runs straight with your carve line it's OK but it is poor quality control.

I do not. I made one wooden burnisher to use in a drill press plus a couple of highly polished steel ones. They all languish in a box. My tool of choice is a very, very old hardwood stick probably made from an ash hammer handle. It is very close grained, stained brown by use, and works better than anything else I have ever tried. it is carved on both ends to use for about any burnishing chores but I have no picture to post. I do lay belts flat along the edge of my worktable for most of the burnishing but I simply hold them with my hand. Holsters are done the same but more of just holding them up and rub, rub, rub. I also hand sand the edges with 400 grit wet or dry paper before burnishing. The power burnishers worked but I can do it as quickly with the hand burnisher. Faster if I add in the time to get out the tool, rig up, and put it away after finishing.

During my working life I did a lot of waterflood work, i. e. welding up leaks and replacing pipe. This involved a lot of work boots frequently soaked with oilfield produce water which is really nasty stuff. I was friends with the local boot maker/shoe repairman and finally asked him what to use on my work boots as neatsfoot oil wasn't getting the job done. Huberd's shoe grease was his recommendation so I bought a can. My boots which were Redwings and I started wearing that brand back in the '60s started lasting twice as long as before. He knew what he was talking about and I have used it on my work boots every since. I seldom wear work boots anymore and the the ones I wear are the ones I had when I retired in '96. They are seriously beat up but still don't leak and get greased at least once a year. Rub it on and just keep rubbing. It will liquify and absorb into the leather. I do two coats.

That is nice. Sorry about the health problem. Between my wife and I most of our time is taken up going back and forth to one doctor or another. Golden years, my happy hinnie. Hobble around and hurt is more like it although it still beats the other option.

Since he works construction sweat is probably the culprit. It's going take an oil on the inside layer to prevent damage and it is going to have to re-applied by the user. Since it is a work belt I would just use an oil on the complete belt.

Excellent, all of it.

The original should be easy to draw. The repo offered by Knudson is cheesy by comparison. They do have some nice hats though. I would choose the Dude style if I were looking for another hat.

Looks good and should hold up something no heavier than a guitar for a long, long time. Dad's order, dad gets to choose. Taking artistic license with an order will lose you customers.

Nice holster and a nice gun to go in it.

Thanks. I used blue because she was my first blue eyed great grand child and for several years she and I were the only blue eyed people in the family. Her name is Bentley and I call her Bentley Blue Eyes.

Oh, they are still here in NM, thanks to the federal government, but not in my part of the state. Habitat and food supply isn't suitable.

Texas pine it could be but not a spruce unless someone planted it.

My #2 great grand daughter was 11 years old yesterday so Grandpa made her a belt. Herman's oak 8-9 oz. leather, pattern by Frank McDougall, dye by Fiebing. Not a great picture as I have no good inside light source and it is cloudy.

Will you adopt me? you give out good birthday presents. Nice work, both on the belt and cleaning up a very nice revolver and holster.