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Everything posted by pella
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Myth Buster: Do freeze damage saddlery?
pella replied to pella's topic in General Saddlery Discussion
No more opinion? I still think thats not true. I think heat is worst than freeze (unless leather is water logged maybe) I'll keep freeze and defreeze a little piece of leather in my frozer ;-) I'll let you know if i notice a change on the leather -
Yes, quality vary on my Sedgwicks hide too, i guess than normal? One time i was horrified by a "loose fibers" hide but except that, they are quite stable, some are extroardinary in firmness, other less dense. No Whites is a little less expensive, about the same. When you say "smoother" do you mean the fibres ares looser? I do like firmness in the skin, they broke-in so well so i dont mind original rigidity and that mean longer life. thanks barra, but i am looking for uk leathers. I also use other kinds of bridle, but from usa. I was surprised to learn this week that the "english" bridle leather from Weaver is made in mexico, but from US hide. I like this leather, it is the best dressed "bridle" leather i find in Usa for now.
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I use Sedgwick bridle leather, but i want opinions from english saddlers or people who tried other brands of english leather. Is there other good brands, what about John Whites? Are they equivalent?
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What is the difference with the Adler 105-64 and the 105-25? I have an adler 105-25mo (who need repairs) For those who have this machine, what do you use it for? thanks
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i was looking for the singer 45k25 on the web and i find picture with a roller foot? Is that standard? The machine is good looking. What is the smallest/biggest needle and thread you can use on that machine? Is it a good versatile machine for bridlework and repair on nylon and heavy harnesses(maybe not for traces...)? I have an adler 105-25mo here but i'm wondering if i should invest for repairing it, the length of point is stuck to "too long". I'm thinking selling my tippman boss and invest in a better motorised machine. Is the Pearson a good machine for stitching fine bridlework? Is the point on most machines just to change the foot for a right foot? The right foot on my tipmann Boss do not allow to stich close at all from raised work. I preffer the center foot, and i never attemp to stitch fine bridle work with that "coarse" machine...dont want to scrap my work
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i was heating too much. For chrome leathers, we used to heat very hot then "burn" a black stip of leather, not too much to crack, but look like resistence of chrome is much higer than veg-tan for heat. I will try this technique and appreciate wich i preffer between hot and cold ;-) thanks very much for tips on sewing machine.
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well...yes, tel us more, i learn this technique at school with french teachers but for chrome leathers, with a hot crease but the osbore crease is not really made to be heated like french or english ones. When i begin saddlery work, i notice heating the creaser crack the leather, i guess it was too hot, but so tricky to get to a good temperature, i just "cold crease" now. The disavadtage of cold crease is that it disapear with use (like reins, leashes) so if you tell me a way to improve my technique, i listen to you :-) always open to amelioration Please indicate, for which leather you recommend your technique.
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Esantoro: I do wet the entire surface. You need to immerge the piece in a warm water for a certain time depending on leather, for un-oiled veg-tan, that's fast, less than a minute. You dont want the piece to be completely soaked. You leave the piece for drying a little bit, like if you want to carve leather, usually i place it in a bag for a while then i do other stuff. Then you crease, you can puch slot and holes then too. After, you can finish the edges, you will know when leather will be ready to be "burnished" when it squeak while burnishing. If leather is too wet, it do not work, wait a little bit then try again, if too dry, use a sponge to wet the edge only. You need to wait leather is completely dry for stitching or riveting (the day after), because leather expand when wet... good creasing!
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thank you esantoro. This is wickett & craig harness leather (beautiful feel by the way) and i use orborne crease #5 for that piece. I use to crease when leather is damp, but i cant remember for that halter? Harness leather can be creased dry, it is so soft compare to UK leather.
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Myth Buster: Do freeze damage saddlery?
pella replied to pella's topic in General Saddlery Discussion
In wich way it would reduce life? By drying it faster? It do not really froze and defroze, it just keep frozen all winter...and defroze in spring (well yes, in term of year, that mean froze and defroze) Anyway, when someone bring is saddle out to go trail riding, the leather froze by the time he ride. But i say freeze, but is leather really freezing? Unless it contain water, i dont see how it can be bad? Do you really believe that's bad? We need to keep the saddlery in over freezing point piece? -
If i can find a machine that can stitch fine points on bridlework, let me know! I want to find a machine that can stitch very close to hardware, especially buckle, (is that possible!?) and a machine to stitch raised work on bridles (noseband and browbands). For now, all my work is hand-stitched, like below, that a corse example using 8 point to the inch and heavy thread, 18/5
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Cora, if this picture your workshop WOW!!! Do you speak french yourself? Happy to know about this city, look interresting. I wish i was born in a warm place...I live south of Québec, so now, it pretty cold, i am in celcius, so winter range is -5 to -30decgree celcius, that mean you have difficulty breathing and your eyebrows are frozen lol! Here, there's a lots of horses around, always been popular in our province, but we as less "western" than Alberta, it is half/half classical and western ( i think...) Myself, i am a half/half horsy person. I love both style, so i do both style saddlery and repairs, but i make my living doing high quality doggy stuff. Lots of dogs around too lol! But i ship 85% out of Canada.
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Hello, a friend as me that question, it look like is is a popular idea that leaving your saddle out in a barn non-heated could damage the leather, that it will crack leather. I believe that is a myth and not true, but what is your opinon? here, it freeze -30degree celcius very cold. I think the only thing that will crack (let say not too old) leather is negligence and folding a piece of dry leather (or new un-broken-in leather) or cheap leather.
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I am shocked to ear that, Verlane also help me by email and booklets and was so generous with her knowledge. She very help me in leatherwork, i would not be that good without her! All my love to her and the family
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difference in quality of brass snaps, rings, dees
pella replied to pella's topic in Hardware and Accessories
i know a source for bork in canada, but look mostly saddle hardware, for now, i mostly make dog accessories and tack. i dont know Beilers? I should take a look at this big book. Do they have a catalog? -
difference in quality of brass snaps, rings, dees
pella replied to pella's topic in Hardware and Accessories
"Harness hardware" is buying cast brass from a local canadian foundry. They were even making stainless casting but stop this year, thats sad. In their catalog, it is clearly indicated if stock is imported or local, thats great. But really there is someting changed with many of the brass from weaver, that i don't like. I can see a big difference with my old stock of buckles, snaps, dees and rings. I dont like the fact they chance source, how can i know when they change or come back to old sources? always a surprise -
i was sure it was the boss witha new name!!!!! i hope tandy will not buy weaver...burk!
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Sedgwick is available at siegel of california, USA. Wickett and craig and Segwick is NOT THE SAME AT ALL WOW a HUGE difference. Any usa bridle leather is equivalent to "real" english leather. You have to try to see the difference, wickett & craig is much drier (but not bad, just different). Gary: i never try this white but was curious to try, is so expensive to buy english leather from canada, i have to think twice. I always order sedgewick and from side to side quality vary, i even had a back one time HORRIBLE!!! But well, what can i do, i cannot re-ship them back to england! it will cost me as much as the refund... But except this horrible "loose flesh" back, everything is nice, some hides are very nice, dense grain some are not as good, but all cow not created equal. When hides are drier, i add some sedgwick leather care before cutting.
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In my last weaver leather orders, i notice a difference in quality of brass snaps, rings, dees. It feel cheaper, not polished as before, design is change, the ring are weaker! thinner! I send them a letter with my feedback, and i want to invite all people who deal with them and notice this change to send feedback. I am very disapointed to find quality drop. I am ready to pay more for better quality. I dont want lower price at all cost. I will make big effort in my next orders to order canadian made brass, you can find good quality at Harness hardware, ontario. If you have great place in Usa, please share with us.
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Hello 5 cords is 18/5 is im not wrong, i have some bobbins here of 18/5 and it is similar in thickness to the tandy waxed linen thread (if you know), for a stitching like 6point per inch it is great. 4 cord is 18/4 3 cords is 18/3 smaller 3 cord is 25/3 si i guess if the first number is bigger, the thread is smaller so 40/3 should be very fine
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I use Barbour Black UNWAXED thread...go see here you can buy some: tape abbey saddlery in google coats and barbour is same
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Is leather alcool dye bad for linen? I always stich the color i want, never dye it. As you need to wax the thread before to stich, it should not take it very well? Unless you dye it before stitching, well i guess thats what you do... I found my gutterman thread in NY, just genial this thread
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I dont believe you can send cheese by mail! ...unfortunately Take care, dont read too much! Computer is hard on the eyes
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lexol before dying? what kind of lexol? i will try that. I use to moisten the leather before, but i notice that it make a green "patina" over when it dry, why??! I shake my bottles before...Last time i did not moisten the leather at all and it gave me a nice result. When i finish to dye, i use a cotton to remove that green and then i apply neetfoot oil, then a waxy cream (on both sides). It age well. The sprayer can really make a good job? Is that handy? What kind of alcohol do you use for reducing? I buy the fiebing reducer but if i can buy cheap alcool for same result...