-
Content Count
206 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Blogs
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by pella
-
Hello Don! What a surprise, internet is amazing...yes, it is me. Welcome on the board!
-
wow, you make beautifil work clay B, your workshop look very nice (except the lack of window but still...)! Did you make those saddles? They look superb. I like your carving desk with all tool well placed...
-
peter main workshop= :biggrin: I WANT ONE LIKE THAT!!!
-
i love the dragons! Beautiful piece
-
Hello Gesa, i love your headstall, look like western style riding is very popular in Germany. Your work is beautiful, i like the flowers you carved. Halter is very nice as well! Nice stitching!
-
Hello Gesa, i also do saddlery work (not saddle) bridles, halter and other equipment, happy to "meet you"! I am in Canada How it is in factory? Do you like it? Do you do projects from end to finish or you have specific task?
-
I'd like to experiment with shark and elephant
pella replied to BruceGibson's topic in All About Leather
Hello Bruce, when i was at school, they give us a booklet with many suppliers and there is source for Elephant in USA, I don't know if it is still valid, as it is an old...booklet, but there you go: Elton Leather corp NY 518-725-0636 Maher John G co TX 214-631-3640 There is one in Florida Caspel Corporation FL 305-634-1142 suposse he carry lizard , fish and other exotics...elephant not mentioned Dont find one for shark, but i remember one of my teacher was buying it in NY, USA -
thank you for sharing your experiences, i do want to buy one set of same brand edgers i am on the "quest" to find the best for me and it seem here that watt and ron's are poping out. Do you sharpen your edgers with a thing like weaver stop board? I think that is used for round bottom blades, the one that leave a rounded edge. I sharpen my tandy/blanchard/ on a flat stone and it is easy. Seem that Blanchard leave a square cut... I find tandy edgers work very good, They are ugly an i am ashame to still use some tandy tool as edgers. But they are very dangerous and it is the only tool that make me bleed!!! a cut on the finger or under the nail....when the concentration is gone I like when handle is heavy an i find Vergez are best for that, heavy woods, it let a quality feel in the hands. I dont know why Osborne dye their handle, it look cheap. I ear about that verlane stich riper and i think i will have to buy it one day, it is certainly useful to remove those old stitches from saddle sqirts. What does it look like? Is there a photo on the web? SO anyone know the difference between the western edgar #133 the finest edger #126 (i think here is the roundness of the bottom) the commom edger #125 the edger #127
-
steel is stronger than brass rivet BUT it rust and rust EAT leather. I use Jiffy, dont know if stronger than other. Tubular rivet with a cap is stronger than jiffy.
-
thank you for your help. I have nylon here, i notice weaver is very smooth and not recommended for the boss, maybe that was part for my problems, i also have nylon from American & Efrid, NC, USA. It is stiffer. I think i will give a try on polyester on a sample bobbin (if i can find one)
-
OUPS or it that beveler?! Hello, i have 5 different brand of edger here an there is still many i never try i see in catalogs.... There some that leave a staigh cut edges and some that give better rounded edges. I want to know wich ones are your favorites and give a nice round edge (on heavy leathers) without too much pain. Easy to sharpen is another + I have -Weaver : i dont like it, hard to work -Tandy, it work very good but leave a square edge -Osborne finest: Hard to work wich, it slip, but leave a round edge -Barnley(from UK) not that bad but leave a sqaure edge -Vergez-blanchard (France), my favorite for now, work nicely and easy to use. I only have #1 i use for loops, so i dont know if it will leave a round edge with a wider channel on heavy leathers, will have to try. I would like to know difference with ALL osborne...why do they make so many kind...i am lost They have -western style -finest -bisonette -edger -common edger !!!!!!!!!
-
I buy the boss because it the less expensive machine that can sew heavy harness traces 3/4" material...
-
allo Patrice, Thank you for the comments happy to meet another from our province. Wish you have the chance to study to the CMCM, Maxence is a very good teacher and they give beginners classes sessions (outside of Cegep) They teach hand stitching basic.
-
I use nylon on my hand-crank BOSS machine but want to know their difference, advantage? disadvantage? For those of you that try both thank you
-
well...i was replying to Bruce...about romantisism... I do have french blood! lol! From Normandie and my leather teacher where all french from france so they do tranmit their love for hand-sewn stuff. Even if i had a superb machine, i am not sure if i would switch to machine stitch on my products...i am a purist and conservative person, i like tradition when it come to art crafts (but i like creativity as well! ...made the old way!) I call Boss cie and they will send me a replacement shuttle, the NEW MODEL...wow! i supose that will help me with the tension problems. The guys were sympatic and comprehensive of my french accent. One question here, maybe i should start a new thread but it is a question of words What is the difference between STITCHING AND SEWING? In french we have distinct terms for hand stich(?or hand sewn?) and machine stich it is "Cousu à la main" or "piqué à la machine"
-
It is not the first machine i operate and "no machine is the same", this is the worst i operate since my beginning, and i read all manual carefully, watch the video, let me say there is not much to read. I also know about needle and when problem, i change. look if needle blunt and make test. I had some courses about sewing machine mecanism at school, but these machine where much better quality, i understand the Boss is not that expensive for the work we can accomplish with. Just want to say that is is not a fine quality tool like german machines so maybe normal to have more problem...with pieces. I have a Juki like your justin and it work fine. I had some help from another who own the Boss and i may be able to find the problem, may be some parts to update and thread problem. I'll let you know what happen, i have to call the company. I find romantic to hand sew! lol!
-
maybe you react to the tanin? what kind of veg tan leather ?? oak? hemlock? other? sumac?
-
wow, didint know veg tan can cause allergies, thank you the stuff you put on the backing is like sealer? i dont use them i only have acrylic resolene But HOW do you work leather ?? if you are allergic??!! lOL
-
I buy the boss because it was the only machine that sew very thick i could afford. I dream the day i will be able to buy a better older foot operated machine... i do not like the boss. I cannot sew thin stuff only thick stuff minimum 14oz will give a nice result for me and i have trouble with the tension, I like to use fine points and fine thread so the lower tensioner is not thight enough and that cause me problems...I tried to modifed last day and i think it is worst now. I hate my machine, i even broke a tooth of the mecanism one day in a rage i suppose when everything was stuck in the machine. I email tipmann and never had an anwser. I wanted to ask them for another piece that brake on my machine...a little piece, and i find a way to replace it but still... I use center foot also as other feet is VERY BIG... SO many hours spend on that machine...and still not have good result, sometime yes sometime no... I use it for repair job... also the needle do not enter in the exact middle of the hole (on the plate) it even touch one side... GRRRRRRRRRRRR it drive me CRAZY!!!!!!!!!!!!! SO now you all know why i like my hands ans awl... nb: i have good souvenirs of a machine when i was at school...there some nice machine out there but you need to pay for...
-
Do someone have a source for european badger fur, the one with the hard fur, like the brush for men "razing" lol! sorry i dont know the term in english, the brush you use to put the cream before to shave your barb! I use soft american fur for some of my dogs collars but i look for this "traditional" "hard" fur as well...i do not know a lot but maybe it is harder when the animal is older? I should ask a trapper...
-
DO someone use it? I have hermann oak tooling side but i would like to try their bridle leather and i'm wondering if he is good for stamping (tooling), if it keep stamping good and long time when pieces are folded. Any bridle leather that you find excellent for stamping, please let me know! Another question, what do you feed and what amount to have a dry tooling or even that bridle leather (supposely quite dry) into a well feeded leather. I made myself a bridle and reins with the tooling leather and a put a lot of cream some oil and i find it still feel light, not greasy enough...i have the impression it is an impossible job!!!!!! Maybe do i have to give a grease/oil bath?! LOL! I am use to Sedgwick english leather, i also try weaver english bridle leather wich is nicely feeded and wicket and craig bridle leather wich i was not very happy with...maybe because i order the light weigh 8-9oz i should order medium weight but it feel to me very dry, and it do not hold stamping very well from my experience. thank you
-
i would like to add that veg tan leather is better for wrist cuff...no worry about bleeding and allergies, and will keep it shape longer. You can mold it to shape your arm. I would never use chrome-veg latigo for anything that touch my skin.
-
I have latigo from Siegel, the santa Ynez veg-chrome retan and it seem to me it do not bleed a lot. It is a exceptional nice finish on the grain side, supple side, very nice I recommend I also have a cheap "dry" veg tan hide from Tandy and it bleed and it is not good for saddlery, well for my purposes. There is 2 kind of "latigo"... The "real" latigo is the one very greasy and very supple, the one to use as strings and tie for saddles , this leather stretch and it is ok for that purpose and there is the "dry" latigo use for dog leashes and many other applications but i dont use that leather. Best thing to use on latigo is saddle soap...to care and also to burnish side the best we can...as it is a tricky leather ( i mean the greasy one...) I find Fiebing yellow paste saddle soap is better than white paste for latigo...seem to hold/slick better
-
thank you for starting this forum
-
thank you I did not answer the question about how many time i'm doing leatherwork, already more than 10 years i live with leather but it was not always as much as today, now it is my life!