BondoBobCustomSaddles

Newf, simply put, "it takes as many as it takes!" You can make good high quality saddles without the use of a machine at all. Or you can have one set up to do each area of a saddle if that is what floats you boat. Bottom line you can get into it with out a lot of outlay for equipment. I started out completely stitching by hand,( still stitch a lot by hand) and yes it does take a lot longer than doing it with a machine, but if you practice hand stitching and get good at the quality of the saddle will actually be better. It is just a matter of how serious you are about doing the job right. I am sure you will come to some place in the middle, most do. Bob

I once read, "it's not who you know that counts, but; rather who will be glad to say they knew you!" I am sure that applies here. Thought's and prayers to the family and friends. Bondo Bob

Newf, most of the time I start out with either my original pattern or sometimes one that I modified for a previous saddle. I generally use posterboard as it is inexpensive and easy to get and use. Most of time it ends up hanging on one of the hooks that I hang my patterns on till i need them again. I try to remember to note them so I know which ones i used on which saddles. Yes I do have a lot of patterns hanging there. There's comfort in bunches of stuff. Hope tha helps! Bob

For all of you, the information from all of the above makers, is invaluable. Certainly knowing how so n so does it and why is the cruxt of learning and understanding the craft no matter what it is. Once you have that under your belt, you can branch out and actually start experimenting with your own ideas, and it's been my experience that no matter how new you think your idea is, someone has already been there. That's not to say you may have a different take on how you like to do something. That comes with time , experience, and oh yeah, wiskers! As for making or using someone elses' patterns, it's been my experience that while I still have the patterns that I started with some 20 years ago or so, I almost always take a basic pattern and modify it to the saddle that I am making at the time. While most of my saddles have a tendency to look similar no matter what type it is, there is always has my touch and feel to it. That is just the way it goes. To give you an example, there is a saddlemaker here in Michigan that has been making saddles for well over 50 years, and I believe he is now retired, however; every time I see one of his saddles, I can pick it out in a crowd, no matter if it is a roping , reining, pleasure, or general use saddle, tooled or not. They just have a look about them that says this one was made by Jim. Bottom line, find yourself a good set of patterns and them use them to make the ones you need for a given saddle. Good Luck, Bob

Hey Tom, welcome! Ya, making something for a wife or friend is how it starts, then it's "Katie bar the door" . Once you get started, you can't stop!!! Anyway, welcome, and Happy toolin". I see you signed off Semper Fi. Guess that means you served as a Marine. We thank you for your service and welcome home! Regards, Bob

Welcome to the web sight. There are lots of good hands here and they are willing to help. If you have a question , ask it here, for sure there will be someone here to answer. Where in Mi are you located? I'm just out side of Manchester. Again, Welcome! Bob

I agree with Ross. Dance to your own tune, let the others follow you. My daughters and now granddaughters have shown for many years and have won bunches. They did it leading not following. Ross' comments hit the nail right on the head. Bob

Congrats Darc!! Your work is always clean and crisp, with a nice artistic touch. Well deserved. Bob

Really nice ! I think I will have to make a couple for my wife and myself, and do one in light and one in dark. That way we can keep from grabbing the others book!!!!! LOL Bob

Andy, that second picture is neat. Give some "character" to the knife! lol Bob

Yep! Really nice, be sure to let us know when you have your new web up and running. Keep up the good work! Regards, Bob

Larry, there isn't much to go on, however; by the looks of it, the style, the cut of the skirts, and especially the way the horn is wrapped, my guess is early 30's. I am sure there is someone here that can give you a mo' better estimate. Looks to be in good shape, as long as it fits the horse you want to use it on, your should use it....a lot. Regards, Bob

Well if that cowboy gets throwd' he'll look good doin' it!!! And I think I said this before, but; you ain't no rookie no more. Nice job! Bob

I've not seen the videos, however; the word is that they do a good job of educating. I will tell you this, someone once told me to seek out the person that gets the results you wish to achieve, and watch him/her (some of the best advice I ever got!). I like what I've seen in Jeremiah's work, so given that, it should be worth it for you. By the way, Steve Mason and Bruce ain't half bad either! Regards, Bob

Jim your saddles always project a usin' attitude. This saddle is no exception. Nicely done! Bob

Very nice! Clean , well constructed, and pleasing to the eye. Keep up the good work. Bob

Found a pic (not very good,) but it demonstrates what I was talking about. Bob

My thoughts are in keeping with what Elton says, I also check the bottom of the stitch. When the needle comes out the bottom, if it appears to be puncturing it's way out instead of cutting, this is a sign that it needs changing. Bob

Shorty, I am a saddle maker, and almost all I have around is 10 oz and up. When I make a belt, first off I skive the leather to the desired thickness, keep in mind that all of my belts are doubled and stitched so actually both sides are skived to approximately 6 oz. then glued and stitched, after I have tooled and finger carved on them. Also, in the area of the buckle and the "tongue" area where the belt holes are I also skive down a little more to allow for folding and for the tongue to pass through the buckle properly. Hope that helps! Bob

Joel, looks like you have been a busy beaver! Nice job! I am sure the saddle's owner will be pleased. Bob

Joel, glad I could help. Don't worry about the cost, not a big deal. One last tip, like it says in Al's books, pre-forming the cover leather really makes it easier to get a good seat without wrinkles. I use an old tree that I took out of a broken saddle I had lying around here as a form. Bob

Joel, also you can try an auto upholstery shop, I know there are many of those in SOCAL. Bob

Nate, the answer is yes. If you look at the pics in the links that Denise added you will see that in all but one case that is how it is done. The other being a sleeve instead of a wrap, which is also a way that the twist is accomplished. I have also seen some saddles where once the twisted leather has dried and set, they leave no wrap at all. If you look closely at the pic in my post you will see that the tails are not yet cut off, and how they come out under the wrap. Last step is to cut the tails off flush with the last wrap before they exit out from underneath the wraps. Bob

OK, I'll try to explain how I do it. Not neccessasarily how others do it, or for that matter the best way, just how I do it. I wrap them the same way that folks wrap the string at the end of a fishing rod to secure an "eye". You take a piece of stitching thread double it and lay it the length of the area that you are going to wrap with a couple or inches sticking out past where you are wrapping. Then you take a piece of wet/saddle soaped leather about 3/16" wide and 5-6 oz., or there-abouts, and start your wrap with the "loop" or closed end of the string at the opposite end from where you start the wrap. First you take about 5" or 6" of your wrapping lace (tail) and lay it along side the string you have put down with the end up next to the loop of the string . Now wrap your leather lace around between 5 to 10 times, (the amount depends on what you prefer and how much room you have in the area you are wrapping). when you get to the last wrap, you put the end you are wrapping with through the loop of the thread and pull on the thread to pull the lead end of the wrap leather under the wrap you have just accomplished and pull it through till it is snug along the side of the original tail you laid down at the beginning. I know this sounds confusing, but; in my mind it is perfectly clear, problem is I sometimes have a hard time explaining what I am doing!! Bottom line it is easy, and with a little practice you will become proficient. At first it seems you need about 14 fingers on each hand to do this, but; with practice, that will decrease to the 5 that you were born with! In other words get a friend or "Mate" to help you. Start out with a piece of wood dowel approximately the same dia. as the stirrup when twisted, and about 10" long. This will give you a solid base to practice on and make it easier for you to achieve the results you want. Also once yu get good at wrapping and pulling the tail under and snug, you may want to "fold" the lace at the start and ending so it will pull up clean and neat, but; get the wrapping down first, then getting it perfect will be a matter of practice. The wet leather will shrink to tighten it up as it dries. I hope this helps. Like I said, others may do it differently, I just like the finished result when I do it this way. Here is a pic. Bob

Hi Y'all, recently I finished an order of photo albums for Christmas, and I posted them. Well, She came back and had me do 3 more in a 5X7 size. Here are the latest ones. Thought that I'd post these also, hope you like! Bob