BondoBobCustomSaddles

They say necessity is the mother of invention. While I personally have not found the need to redesign my stitching horse, that doesn't mean that nobody else should feel the urge. There is always room for improvement in anything and making a better mousetrap ( Stitching horse) is certainly something that if it pleases you , you should do. If you get one done, please post for us to see. Bob

Potato Peelers are al i have ever used, for all the reasons stated above. Bob

If that doesn't work, then try some de-glazer to get all oils or whatever else is on it off, before you re-dye and then let it dry a good 24 hrs, before using supersheen. I usually make sure the project is clean with de-glazer or laquer thinner before I dye. Makes life a lot easier! Bob

That's just the ticket to finish a "Kit Carson" outfit (for those of you who remember Kit). Really neat, nicely done. Bob

Just looked at the new Weaver Catalog, and they show it on page 104. You can call them to see if it is what you want @ 330-674-1782. Bob

Welcome to the forum. We all started somewhere, and hopefully we enjoy the trip to where we got! Bob

Newf, as promised, here are some pics of "Duke" after 4 days of steady work in the new arena. He is beginning to leg up just fine. Bob

It appears that you have done a really nice job. The proof is in the use. As you use it you will know what you may want change in the next , and next , and so on. As for your work, it looks really good , especially for a first. It was fun wasn't it? Bob

Call Tandy Store in Westland and ask for Rance Pope. Bob

The problem is that your blade is not square, front to back, with the roller that the leather rolls on as it goes into the blade. you will have to adjust it so that it is square. Bob

I have seen that on more than one saddle, and usually it is when it comes in for repair, and the binding is loose on the back side along with a lot of other things that have gone wrong and shouldn't on a well made saddle. A lot of riders reach back there and grab on so there is the potential for it to come loose. Also what I have seen is that they will stitch the cantle back to the front and filler with the binding on a machine and then slide it on. I know it makes for a loose fit and not a good tight custom fit, but; i have seen it and it just makes you wonder how they get by with it. It's not the way I was taught. Bob

I know all the environmentalists and chemical freaks will winch, however; I use the same stuff I keep around the shop for a lot of uses, laquer thinner. I have been using it for so many years both at work and home I suffer from withdrawl if I don't get a wiff of it once and a while!!! I do; however; use surgical gloves when I am dying leather. You ca get a box cheap at the dollar store, and they are really handy. Bob

First and Foremost, welcome home, and thank you for your service! if yo need help with anything, this is the place to get it. Lots of good folks here, willing to help, like Ferg. Glad yo made it home safe, don't hesitate to ask for help, it's least we can do. Semper Fi Bob First and Foremost, welcome home, and thank you for your service! if yo need help with anything, this is the place to get it. Lots of good folks here, willing to help, like Ferg. Glad you made it home safe, don't hesitate to ask for help, it's least we can do. Semper Fi Bob

Like most of you, I use scrap pieces to check color of dies and ideas for tooling and such. Then I throw them in a drawer to use to give customers an idea of what to choose when ordering a saddle, and usually I use almost everything, but ; the moo. Some how I still end up with a bag full of stuff, shavings, trash , small bits and pieces that just aren't good for anything, unless you have a lot of time to fiddle with making that hodgepoge stuff and enjoy it, that "stuff" goes out with the trash. I do really like the idea of making air fresheners for the truck and the like. I am always thinking that I am going to stop and get some from the auto parts store or where ever, but ; just never get around to it. Thanks for the idea Syl, like they say, you are never too old to learn new things, but; I must be getting close! LOL Bob

Ferg, you have a couple of years on me (not many) , however: I too grew up in those days, and wish today was more like it was back then. I love to listen to the old music and watch the old westerns. Guess I will never grow up! Thanks for the post, Bob

My guess, by looking at the way the horn is finished, and the exposed stirrup leathers, is that it probably dates back to the late 20's, early 30's. Without a name or numbers on it, it is hard to tell. Bob

So sorry to hear about the loss of your friend. Having been through it, I empathize with you. Jeffzilla's quote says it all. Best Regards, Bob

Jimbob, when I said both, I meant deglazer or acetone will work, however; I use laquer thinner as my preference because it is cheaper than the others and it can be used for a lot of different things around the shop. Hope that clears it up. Bob

Hi DMC. I am a retired Seating Engineer from Lear Corp. We made a lot of seats for a lot of different vehicles both foreign and domestic. I can tell you that the leather used for seating in today's cars (most of the seat cover is not leather but vinyl) has a urethane coating on it for wear resistance. While it is not impossible to to re-dye the leather in these seats, it certainly would be impossible to get it so it looks like you want it to. First you would have to remove all of the coating (good luck!) then you would use pro oil dye. Oh, by the way, that is most likely not top grain, but a sub split and as such you will loose the pressed in grain when you strip it, and also loose any wear resistance at the same time. As for the vinyl and carpets, the vinyl is a form of plastic, and the carpet is most likely made of plastic also. no dying there, just painting, not a good idea. If you really want to fix this car up the suggestion of new seat covers is spot on. Sorry to burst your bubble, but; as I said, I was a seat engineer, and as part of design and prove-out, we did a lot of durability testing. You are barking up the wrong tree. Best Regards, Bob

First, those are really gorgeous, I would be really proud to wear a pair of those any day! Just enough fancy to say I like my stuff special, but; not so much that they belong on the shelf to look at. WTT, do you make them for customers of just for yourself, and if you do make them for folks, would you share your price list with us? Now, I might be showing my age here, (I know a couple of you are in my age bracket), but; when I was a youngster, and riding with Roy, Hoppy and Gene, out on the play ground, we called them "bull doggin' heels". Now mind you none of us were out working cattle or bull dogging at the rodeos, however; that's what we called them and it was because the idea was, that with the deep underslung heel, when you jumped off that cayouse , grabbed them horns, and planted your feet out to stop the critter and wrestle him down, you wouldn't get your heels stuck in the dirt and break something! Now I ain't no expert on this , but; that's the way I remember it. Maybe someone older that me, can elaborate. Bob

Like Jim, I use 10 1/2" length with a predominantly 2 1/2" width, unless specifically requested by the customer. Bob

Both of those products will do the job, I personally use plain old laquer thinner. You can get it at your local hardware. It has a mixture of MEK, Acetone, and Toulene. Works well. Once it is dried you will want to oil with what ever you use, evo, or neatsfoot or the like. Bob

You need to adjust so that the crossover of top and bottom thread is in the middle. Tighten both the top and bottom . I usually take a piece of scrap the thickness that I am going to sew, and stitch it an inch or so, then check it by cutting it down the stitch line as looking to see where the crossover is and then adjust from there. Like I said, I like it tight , so I adjust accordingly. Usually I can see it by just looking at it. You'll get the hang of it after a while. Bob

I predominantly use 207, 277, and 346. Just depends on what it is I am doing. As for winding the bobbin, while it does make some difference, it is not noticeable unless you are working with a low tension. I haven't been able to get my perfect wind yet myself, and I been doing it for years, been thinking about getting a bobbin winder, they are out there, just haven't gotten round to it yet. I generally use a lot of tension, I like my stitches really tight, and since I also almost always use a stitch groover to give me a good line to follow, it gets my stitches down in the leather so they won't wear too soon. I wouldn't worry about it too much as long as it is close to even. Bob

Always glad to help. By the way, my old friend there has been living the life of Riley for some time now, however; we just finished redoing my riding area, and instead of sod, he will be working on a real arena floor and I expect he will muscle up like he used to when I did a lot of riding. I'll post some pics once he is in the pink again. Bob, PS: it pays to let your offspring play with Tonka Toys, he may just grow up to own his own excavation and grading co. and come home to do a little for ol'dad.