Silverd
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Everything posted by Silverd
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Yes. No resolve after quite some time.
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Hello Anyone familiar with Claes 30...my presser foot will not set down all the way no matter how much I adjust it. Silverd
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Great advice. I placed an order today for 4 sets of 1" black straps. And I bought rolls of #8 polyester cotton core thread in black and white, this to go with a 1/2 hide of Australian oak stirrup butt I purchased earlier this week. I'll hand stitch the buckles. They will be epic! Thanks for your help. Silverd Would you post a pic of the stitch pattern you use? Silverd
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Would stitching the straps on a needle Awl machine be acceptable in your opinion? Although I have no problem hand stitching them. Great suggestion! Silverd
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It does. Thank you. I think I'm going to order the Stirrup Butt from Abbey. It may cost me close to $500 after shipping but I should be able to make it back and generate some additional work in the process. There is a significant Dressage community in this area (Santa Barbara, CA) who's members I think might be inclined to seek traditional made high quality tack. I'm poised to begin using a Landis 16 to stitch them...would be a perfect first project for me on this machine. I'll check out your recommendations too as you appear to have good experience with this. I'll post a photo of my results. thanks again, Silverd
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Hello, I'm just getting started in making minor saddle repairs and have an English Riding client who needs new stirrup leathers. As with most things in the leather and especially tack making world, what initially may look simple generally is not! Im finding that stirrup leathers are made with a nylon liner and some with not. My mentor / saddle maker has informed me that the straps are typically made from a single strap of Stirrup Butt...only available from Abbey England that I have found, but i have not pursued German suppliers. And its expensive! What is the right solution? Are matrix straps with nylon strapping sewn in also made using Stirrup Butt or a lesser cost leather? Any assistance will be greatly appreciated Silverd
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Hi. My Claes 30 made a clunk then broke a needle while sewing the other night. Come to find out it was the shuttle cam follower that sheered off. Unfortunately while I was trouble shooting the root cause, I removed the bobbin shuttle and lost the hook timing position. Is anyone familiar with the procedure to reinstall correctly? Silverd
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Dying Chrome Tanned
Silverd replied to Silverd's topic in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
Haha...OK well that makes sense then! I assumed i was working with a Chrome tanned product by the look and feel of it. That I guess explains the results I got. Thank you! Silverd -
Hi all Can chrome tanned leather be dyied successfully? My first attempts appear be successful but what of long term survival? Photo is of Portifino D Shoulder leather from Tandy. Before and after application of a custom blend of three Pro Die shades with a single coat of Fiebings Pro Resist on top. What's there not to love! Silverd
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Loosened the shoulder screws with springs as you suggested and lubricated the entire head workings, checked all hardware for tightness and reset bobin pull out tension using the 16 fluid Oz method. Reassembled and finished a few multilayer stirrup leathers without incident. I noticed the shuttle plate moves around as the shuttle occilates. This could have been the root cause but it's a little early to tell and sewing buckles onto stirrup leather is quite stable compared with sewing a padded halter together. I also ordered three feed dogs from Bob Kovar and a flat / narrow slot needle plate. That's the only plate I didnt have for this machine! I work in the machine tool industry and can have the modifications made to the feed dogs as I described done. Photos to follow. Thanks for your help. Everything you have told me makes good sense. Silverd
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They range from 22 to 25 size mostly. Silverd
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Rocky Without exception, my problem is stitching multiple layers close to edge applications. Halters and Bridle work or the like. I think reducing the standard feed dog needle hole width as you suggest may be a really good way to ensure the needle is correctly aligned with the hook when it exits the material. If the needle deflects one way or the other in its travel thru the work, a narrow slot in the feed dog would prevent the needle from entering the hook zone out of position. If the slot in the feed dog were chanfered, it might correct the situation good enough to make a stitch without allowing a needle / hook collision. Or it would stop the needle travel altogether...which is better done by the dog than the hook. I'm now wondering why narrow slotted dogs are not already offered. It would allow maintaining the compound feed feature of the 441 which is valuable. But is there a down side to this idea? Ill post photos of what I come up with to this end. Silverd
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Hey Great video! Typically, shoulder screws like the ones with the springs holding the hook assembly in place are designed with sufficient shoulder length such that they can be fully seated. Not the case here apparently as you have pointed out. Definitely I'll loosen mine as they are installed tight. Thank you Silverd
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No. I've never put so many new needles in a machine! I'm thinking the work piece is a contributing culprit since the machine will sew perfectly on another piece of leather immediately before and after a breakage. Silverd
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Great advise. Techsew model 5100 Presser foot presser does not appear to be a causality. I keep it as light as possible but normally dont allow the work to lift. There is a gap between the needle and hookI as you describe. But I have not measured the gap. Machine normally sews well. I'll check set screw tightness and hand lever presser foot lift mechanism as suggested. Two shoulder screws with springs that retain the hook shuttle into the casting are tight. I can loosen them a bit. That said. The shuttle assy does not freely translate in the arm casting at least on this machine. You are suggesting is not normal? I'll work on this to free it up. Bobbin appears to operate normally. Thread pulls evenly. Many thanks. I'll follow up a little later. Siverd
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Hi All, I have a two year old Techsew 441 that periodically will make a cluncking noise, skip a stitch then break off the needle. Typically this is when sewing thick leather, 10oz or so but has also done it on lesser material. I understand it has to do with how the needle path into the hook zone is influenced by the material but the problem appears to be getting worse not better. A recent project resulted in 8 or 10 broken needles and remaking of several components. Ive checked the timing using the Uwe system and it's spot on. I have renewed the hook assembly but have not made any lateral adjustmentso or shimming. Is anyone familiar with this behavior and its causality? Silverd
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I recently helped the good folks at Landis Machine Co by rebuilding a dozen main cams used in the Landis 16 harness stitching machine. The problem is these cams are a wear item. Most 16s have been used in an industrial or commercial setting since the 50s or 60s and this cam is worn out. There are 3 big barrel cams in each machine but this one is the only one that typically shows signs of wear and only the face groove of this cam. The repair started by having the face cam channel digitized. Then the cam path was mapped and a CNC G code program generated. Using a feature called cutter compensation, the CNC machine will cut a wider path based on how much wear is measured on each cam. A fixture was made to hold the cams in the vise of the CNC milling machine then each cam was machined untill clean-up of the worn out cam channel was achieved. Then based on the new channel width, a custom cam roller was made and later heat treated. Replacement of the cam is simple and most owners can do the work. Contact me for more information. Silverd
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Hi Thank you for the response. I agree and understand what you are saying; it only makes sense. I guess I was just making sure somebody didn't have a miracle solution I haven't heard about before proceeding. I have used the Hide product works really well and I've also used Pecards which I've had good results with on very old equestrian tack. Thank you again. Silverd
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Hello All I'm attempting to recondition an antique suit case. This case is all leather wrapped and needs to be reconditioned. I have no issue with doing this work but the client does not want the leather to darken. Is there a recommended conditioner that will not darken (very much) the leather? Saddle oil or mink oil appear to cause the light color leather to darken too much. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Silverd
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Well your work is exceptional. I picked up a Landis 16 recently, have a 441, a Claes 30 and a little Singer MK2. The 441 is the most versatile by far. Silverd
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Such impressive work. Absolutely beautiful. Silverd
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Im certainly listening to your advise. Excellent common sensical feedback. I thank you. We will be advancing the product into the market but as you suggest, we need to pull our act together with finalizing our previsional patent application and non disclosure documentation. I've had a few supplier responses to my original inquiry through leatherworker.net that appear promising and will take up with them again once our afares are in order. Silverd
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Great information. The product size is compatible with the smaller press dims you presented. My partner is concerned with publishing images at this time unfortunately. I'm respectful of his reluctance at this time but will take up supplier vetting once we have resolve. Silverd