
Silverd
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Hello, Can someone tell me if the needles I use in a Juki 1541S can be used in a Pfaff 335 clone? 134-35 & 135 x 16: Are they compatible? Thank you! Silverd
- 3 replies
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- 134-35 & 135 x 16
- pfaff 335
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Cowboy....presser foot has a sticky action but is not effectin the tension release mech. Silverd
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Yes. It does sew well. As a Chinese knock-off it had its share of fit and finish issues associated with some of the mechanical linkage components of the upper thread tensioning system. The tension release lever stuck open which defeated thread tension and caused the hook to jam. This was resolved quickly by manually actuating the mechanism several hundred times then applying grease to the interface surfaces. I also removed the motor break pad and added a LED light bar. Most of the work I do requires precision needle placement. I wear special prescription glasses so I can view the action close up and later will open up the needle foot toe width to further improve viability. I had prepared the clutch previously for the machine arrival and the perimeter sew that was required. All other stitching had been completed earlier. The 335 is the only machine I know of that can accomplish this particular tight radius sewing, but I'm not an expert by any stretch. I am however happy to have a 335 type machine added to my working collection and can tell already it will be kept busy as more of my work goes toward handbag, smart phone, i-pad cases and wallet creation. The equestrian work I originally set up shop for is simply not steady enough in my area to support a business. See me on Instagram: pacific.customleatherworks Silverd
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It's a small cylinder arm single needle, clone of a Pfaff 335.
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Hopefully none related to the machine its self. Possibly tricks or tips related to this machine. Useful accessories. One member suggested that I buy a bobbin holder for every size thread for my Juki 1541S which I have and which has proven very effective in reducing change over time. Just trying to leverage the knowledge of the masses. Silverd
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Good evening all I'm taking delivery of a new pfaff 335 clone from Bob Kovar this week. Anyone want to make a recommendation or serve me warning? I'll be using it to sew the perimeter of an Art deco style clutch as my first project for it...and the reason for its purchase. Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Silverd I already own and use: Juki 441 Techsew Clone Landis 16 Juki 1541S Claes 30 Patcher
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Wow... $5 per meter minimum 345 meter order. You are big time man!
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Was on their site today and requested samples and pricing for the two products you recommended. It's a start. I was not aware they also supply lamb skin which I also use a lot of. Thank you agan for the information. Silverd
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Very nice. Very impressive work Mr. Rocky. Exactly what I'm targeting. I will pursue the US rep for material samples. I really like the idea of company branding. About what is cost per yard of their product? Thank you Silverd
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The one to the right is called a straight Channeler which I purchased from Bruce Johnson. I don't use it for wallet making but I do when making traditional English Throat Latch Rounds for equestrian halters and/or round reins. It cuts a slit or channel in the U shaped section of the strap after it has been pulled through a rein breaker. Two slits are cut one on each side of the U section, then a stitch is sewn through them that holds the round together. I sew though the channels using a Claes 30 Patcher but have purchased a Landis 16 to do this work in the future. Landis actually made a rein rounder attachment which I hope to aquire soon. Person also made one as well as others. A difficult process but one that yields a nice looking latch or reins. The other tool is also a Channeler but the blade is set at an angle. Great turn of the centry tools that still work today! Both tools are included in the photo to evoke a sense of traditionally made products...which is how I make my stuff for the most part!
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Does silk come in different gauges or thicknesses? I'm out today to my local Joan's today. Silverd
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That is a fantastic idea. I definitely will try your suggestion! Many thanks .Silverd
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Hi Everyone, I'm looking for material suitable for use as as lining for wallets or handbags. Possibly nylon, but in some applications I would like to bond it directly to the flesh side. Thanks for your help Silverd
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I'm looking for a quality flatbed attachment for a Pfaff 335 model G clone. I previously purchased a very nice one for my Julie 441 from Uwe? Anyone know how to contact this gentleman? Thank you Silverd
- 1 reply
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- 335
- flatbed attachment
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I-pad case
Silverd replied to Silverd's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
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I-pad case
Silverd replied to Silverd's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
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I-pad case
Silverd replied to Silverd's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Thank you -
I-pad case
Silverd replied to Silverd's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
The edging along the flap was applied by hand then sewn. I think this is what you are asking. The inside of the flap and back is lined with Dear skin. The front was wet molded to fit the pad with key board. Silverd -
I-pad case
Silverd replied to Silverd's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Yes -
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What are you looking to trade up to?
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Hi All Anybody ever skive Buffalo leather? I understand it may be a bit of a challenge. I have a client that would like to replace the seats and backs of an outdoor chair set and I'm thinking that Buffalo would be a good choice for him but I would need to skive it along the edges so it could be folded back and the edge finished stitched. I normally use a Landis 5 in 1 skiver for everything. Silverd
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For most of my projects I use closed cell Polyurethan foam which I purchase from McMaster Carr. I buy several thicknesses depending on the application. For a rifle pad maybe no thicker than 1/4" possibly 3/16" . I use chrome tan Calf or lamb skin in 3-4 oz weight. I cut the pad shape in the leather so that the finished pad is larger by 1/8 - 3/16" than the belt on both sides. I then use contact cement to glue the foam pad (also cut to shape) to the leather. Then I fold the leather over the foam on both sides so that the seam is located down the middle of the foam. I usually trim the ends prior to all of this so that the pad blends into the belt. Sew the pad to the belt with the seam facing in. They look great and are quite easy to make once you get the hang of them. Good luck! Silverd
- 29 replies
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- foam padding for leather
- closed foam padding
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