Silverd

It's a small cylinder arm single needle, clone of a Pfaff 335.

Hopefully none related to the machine its self. Possibly tricks or tips related to this machine. Useful accessories. One member suggested that I buy a bobbin holder for every size thread for my Juki 1541S which I have and which has proven very effective in reducing change over time. Just trying to leverage the knowledge of the masses. Silverd

Good evening all I'm taking delivery of a new pfaff 335 clone from Bob Kovar this week. Anyone want to make a recommendation or serve me warning? I'll be using it to sew the perimeter of an Art deco style clutch as my first project for it...and the reason for its purchase. Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Silverd I already own and use: Juki 441 Techsew Clone Landis 16 Juki 1541S Claes 30 Patcher

Wow... $5 per meter minimum 345 meter order. You are big time man!

Was on their site today and requested samples and pricing for the two products you recommended. It's a start. I was not aware they also supply lamb skin which I also use a lot of. Thank you agan for the information. Silverd

Very nice. Very impressive work Mr. Rocky. Exactly what I'm targeting. I will pursue the US rep for material samples. I really like the idea of company branding. About what is cost per yard of their product? Thank you Silverd

The one to the right is called a straight Channeler which I purchased from Bruce Johnson. I don't use it for wallet making but I do when making traditional English Throat Latch Rounds for equestrian halters and/or round reins. It cuts a slit or channel in the U shaped section of the strap after it has been pulled through a rein breaker. Two slits are cut one on each side of the U section, then a stitch is sewn through them that holds the round together. I sew though the channels using a Claes 30 Patcher but have purchased a Landis 16 to do this work in the future. Landis actually made a rein rounder attachment which I hope to aquire soon. Person also made one as well as others. A difficult process but one that yields a nice looking latch or reins. The other tool is also a Channeler but the blade is set at an angle. Great turn of the centry tools that still work today! Both tools are included in the photo to evoke a sense of traditionally made products...which is how I make my stuff for the most part!

Understand. Do you make a lot of wallets and bags? Silverd

Does silk come in different gauges or thicknesses? I'm out today to my local Joan's today. Silverd

That is a fantastic idea. I definitely will try your suggestion! Many thanks .Silverd

Hi Everyone, I'm looking for material suitable for use as as lining for wallets or handbags. Possibly nylon, but in some applications I would like to bond it directly to the flesh side. Thanks for your help Silverd

I'm looking for a quality flatbed attachment for a Pfaff 335 model G clone. I previously purchased a very nice one for my Julie 441 from Uwe? Anyone know how to contact this gentleman? Thank you Silverd

Bother have a back folder.

One my earlier versions. This one lamb skin lined with a pencil holder.

Thank you

The edging along the flap was applied by hand then sewn. I think this is what you are asking. The inside of the flap and back is lined with Dear skin. The front was wet molded to fit the pad with key board. Silverd

Yes

Latest project for the GF. With a western flare!

What are you looking to trade up to?

Hi All Anybody ever skive Buffalo leather? I understand it may be a bit of a challenge. I have a client that would like to replace the seats and backs of an outdoor chair set and I'm thinking that Buffalo would be a good choice for him but I would need to skive it along the edges so it could be folded back and the edge finished stitched. I normally use a Landis 5 in 1 skiver for everything. Silverd

For most of my projects I use closed cell Polyurethan foam which I purchase from McMaster Carr. I buy several thicknesses depending on the application. For a rifle pad maybe no thicker than 1/4" possibly 3/16" . I use chrome tan Calf or lamb skin in 3-4 oz weight. I cut the pad shape in the leather so that the finished pad is larger by 1/8 - 3/16" than the belt on both sides. I then use contact cement to glue the foam pad (also cut to shape) to the leather. Then I fold the leather over the foam on both sides so that the seam is located down the middle of the foam. I usually trim the ends prior to all of this so that the pad blends into the belt. Sew the pad to the belt with the seam facing in. They look great and are quite easy to make once you get the hang of them. Good luck! Silverd

Starwind0 At some point if you are interested in advancing your level of participation in leather craft you need to commit to something and take action. These machines are not that costly and can be re-sold if you find it to be not exactly what you want. Certainly you and your efforts are worth the investment. In addition; no matter what machine you buy, you will go through a learning curve that will give you valuable insight that can only be gotten by experience in front of a machine. I like the idea of bringing an antique on-line but if you are more interested in actually making things than you are in fixing things, an entry level new or near new machine is the direction I would recommend based on my past two years of starting from nothing and doing it both ways. Best of luck! Silverd

You may not be too impressed with Tech sew customer service practice and attitude. But if you don't require customer service then yes, certainly they have Canadian branded machines for sale. Best of luck to you. Silverd

My fault entirely I'm afraid. My apologies. Silverd

Have spent now several hours attempting to tune this machine into sewing like I expected, and all things considered i have likely gotten it to stitch as well as it is going to but didn't know it. The photo is of the backside stiches from my Chinese 441 thick white thread and this machine. Is this normal for the jukie? If so, I've made a mistake. Silverd