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Silverd

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Everything posted by Silverd

  1. Ive read them on line but I didn't down load it. That's where I got the 10 degree each side skiver blade angle info. I think you contact Patrick at Landis International. He may have something. Fyi. What I read did not include much set up info. Landis has truely refirbished 3 n 1 machines for sale but all things considered a Chinese Fortuna style machine really is a better way to go. Siverd
  2. I have a Landis 5 in 1 that I use to skive 2.5 mm veg tan and thicker.. When I purchased this vintage machine it was advertised as reconditioned. It had been repainted but not reconditioned. I dismantled, cleaned and properly lubricated the components before reassembling. I own a Tormek blade sharpening system and hollow ground the skiving blade to factory specs which is 10 deg each side. The blade being made of a high carbon content steel took an edge very well and slices through leather effortlessly. The machine can be set up to edge skive exactly how I like up to about 1.5" wide. The top feed roller has traction grooves which will leave an imprint. To deal with this I place a sheet of paper on top of the leather when that surface will show in the final work. To successfully use the machine for shape cutting or slitting leather two things should be present. A non serrated cutting wheel and an edge guide attachment. The guide can be fashioned easily if not included and the cutting wheels are available through Landis international in Canada for around $100.00. Talk to Patrick. If you actually buy a Landis 5 in one or 3 in one, I recommend it be in good original unreconditioned condition as I don' think most folks really understand how to successfully do this work yet want to charge for it. I also purchased a refirbished American Co spitter that was refurbished and it was much the same. Hope this helps Silverd
  3. OMG...richer men than you design products purchased by smarter woman than you...that must make you feel funny huh! Silverd
  4. ...Patterns aren't that difficult? Oh my! Perhaps for holsters which are fixed to the functional geometry of a specific host iron but make an original curvy multi panel hand bag or custom wearable item and the process of pattern creation takes on a life of its own. Just saying my friend! Silverd
  5. For general splitting and harness work is one of the semi industrial spitter machines offered on the market today under $3k superior over the others? Silverd
  6. No one is talking about the other important aspect of selecting the best foam for a project which is the base material. Foam comes in many material types: natural rubber, polyurethane, polyethylene and more as example. I purchase foam in various materials, thicknesses and density including in open and closed cell types including memory foam. Take a look in the McMaster Carr on-line catalog for a wide selection. I purchase small sample qtys of foam in a range of physical properties close to what I think will work then make a final determination based on testing the various foam samples with the actual project leather I'm using. I bit more scientific approach than what many may have the patience for but that's how I work out a solution. Just saying! Silverd
  7. The equine bridle straps are sometimes skived on both sides (left and right) their entire length...as well as the ends where the buckle is married. A Landis 5 in one will technically handle that work but has a tendany to leave drive wheel witness marks. At least on Veg Tan. I've not tried to use it on bridle leather but I assume there will be some evidence as a consequence. The Fortuna skiver has the drive wheel positioned on the skiving side; probably for that very reason. I invested in the Landis before I turned tiller North tward the equine trade and will serve it up on Ebay if it makes sense. Silverd
  8. Id like to throw a probably obvious question into this thread from someone with only landis 5 in 1 skiving experience. Will the Fortuna or Fortuna clome style skivers work on bridle leather straps? Silverd
  9. Two established belt making techniques. 1. Same size blanks and liners that require an accurate joining process to keep the edges aligned. 2. Oversized top or liner that allows for noncritical joining but requires the over lap edges to be trimed. Do I have this right? Silverd
  10. Wow! Awsume accounts! 8 out of 10..really? I' m vnot sure I believe that seeming how you were likely scared for life that faithful day under the tail of the beast! No wonder you vered from the equine trade! Sounds like it has worked out well for you just the same. Thank you for the insights. I'm taking the group's advise and will make an offer for the beveler and creaser just so you know. Will provide an update asap. Now what is this rotary punch device you speak of? Silverd
  11. Not a problem Mark. I'm a bit of a junkie myself. All very interesting. Silverd
  12. Very cool...and you are making tack and such...strap work? Silverd
  13. Do you crease your straps? Silverd
  14. Good for use on English Bridle leather? What would you say is a fair price for 2nd hand easy edger machine? Silverd That is very impressive. Are you making tack?
  15. Any body have anything to share re the Weaver edging machine? Can the blades be sharpened? Do they really work ? are they worth the $1K cost? Yes, No...What????? Silverd
  16. what of the Weaver easy edger...does anyone have anything on this machine?
  17. Hi All I decided to make a commitment to embark on the journey to higher ground and horse tack; including high quality show bridels of which my first project will tackle. Any advise out there? I'm not one to take many short cuts and I would benifit greatly from suggestions that take me closer to my goal which says I will listen closely. Honest....I will! My Buisness Plan 1. Planning on custom makes and short runs only at this time 2. Am working with an experienced show horse owner who is networked in my local area. 3. I've purchased an assortment of tack for a better understanding of the industry's general construction methodology. 4. I own suitable stitching machines and support equipment. 5. I'm a career mechanical engineer and successful product designer. ...And I have a question for the group Harness making requres a good means of stripping. For a one off or short run production, is a manual stripper acceptable? Thank you in advance for your help. Silverd
  18. Hi All I decided to make a commitment to embark on the journey to higher ground and horse tack; including high quality show bridels of which my first project will tackle. Any advise out there? I'm not one to take many short cuts and I would benifit greatly from suggestions that take me closer to my goal which says I will listen closely. Honest....I will! My Buisness Plan 1. Planning on custom makes and short runs only at this time 2. Am working with an experienced show horse owner who is networked in my local area. 3. I've purchased an assortment of tack for a better understanding of the industry's general construction methodology. 4. I own suitable stitching machines and support equipment. 5. I'm a career mechanical engineer and successful product designer. ...And I have a question for the group Harness making requres a good means of stripping. For a one off or short run production, is a manual stripper acceptable? Thank you in advance for your help. Silverd
  19. Very cool bag. Nice work!
  20. Agree. Very nice work. How many hours do you estimate? Don
  21. You buy patterns? Do also design your own? Don
  22. I get it! That is a really clever solution....aside from being a bit time consuming it addresses the challenge in an unorthodox but practical manner. I will certainly give this approach a try. Many thanks! Don
  23. End seams: The left and right tan and black bag body pcs are french seamed sewn at each end with bitter ends to the out side. Then top and bottom are sewn together on a cylinder arm. Works great. The black vertical strips on each end cover the french seam bitter ends (not sure the correct term) and were sewn on a cylinder arm but required contortion folding the bag to the point that I broke needles and left presser foot marks in the material. The sew line starts at the bottom and runs up one side of the cover strip makes a full radius 180 degree u-turn then heads back down on the other side of the cover strip. I'l try to add another photo showing this, but that's basically the issue.
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