Nikos69

I agree with Fred. I have made a full drawer of acrylic templates which only take a few minutes to vector cut along with a cut-out for the maker's mark stamp placement and stitch holes if necessary. My favorite part of the acrylic is that it's transparent and allows me to perfectly center on patterned material (gator) or engrave marks (like an acrylic ruler) for quickly sizing bracelet lengths on a single pattern. Edges are smooth as glass and don't have problems with the knife gouging into it. I've also made stamps out of the 3mm acrylic which took about 15 min.

Nicely executed design. I like how your case keeps the watch at the same level as the pocket which retains muscle memory.

Crappy laser machines and crappy advice. If you’re going to spam this site with your substandard laser machines, at least consider becoming an advertiser. I see you also have another account to promote your company.

I’ve been using Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop for years and can’t get myself to start over on another platform. I used to make paper patterns but since, have converted them digitally with AI and either print the patterns out or cut them out on my laser when needed. If you can get yourself familiar with a free vector design program that will save you on a subscription fee.

Nice work. I make a lot of custom cigar related leather cases for cutters, lighters and cigars. It’s a good market to get into when you get involved with the cigar community.

Each laser machine will be different with settings. As Ferg said above, you need to do your own testing (speed, power, frequency and focus distance). I have a 50 watt CO2 (not omtech). For cutting, air assist is a must. I mostly cut 6-7oz veg-tan. Power is set to 100% and speed is set to what will cut through it. For engraving, I have settings with and without masking tape. Power and speed settings are roughly in the middle. If you want a darker engrave, you need to go out of focus a little. Make sure you save all your settings.

Another thumbs up for the Tormek. Have my T-4 for years and it does a great job producing quality edges quickly. Aside from kitchen knives, I've sharpened my skivers, quarter round and half round punches, scissors, etc.

The only reason you’re here is to peddle your laser machines. If you want to do it right, become an advertiser on this website.

With a straight stitch, the allowance won’t let you to flatten out the leather. Only way I can think is with a zig-zag stitch or a furrier machine that will stitch a loop over the top so the leather so it will flatten out. A 1 inch non stretch ribbon (or canvas material) can also be placed as a short liner and sewn at each end of the loop to keep it in place.

Your machine must not be good at all and people should avoid the company you work for that is linked in your signature. Your post is a cut & paste from their website. The majority of reputable, enclosed laser engravers will be rated as class 1 and considered safe under normal use with proper ventilation.

I am very impressed with Sinabroks punches. Precisely made and very durable.

I don't know if a diode is powerful enough to cut leather efficiently but you'll definitely generate a LOT of smoke doing the vector cuts along with that strong odor. I cut 6oz veg-tan often on my 50w C02 which is hooked up to a commercial blower. I can't imagine wanting to laser cut leather with a non-enclosed system.

OP is clearly a spammer.

Dwight, I was not targeting you, just showing your new BFF how you wanted to engrave bare buckles in one sentence and you referred to CO2 machine in the next sentence. And for Bert, you also explained that CO2 "won’t engrave bare metal". Hypocrite much? Shouldn’t be casting stones brother.

It was clearly implied so please keep your ignorant condescending attacks to yourself. First sentence he mentions engraving metal. Second sentence, he mentions the $400 Ebay machines which are CO2.

FYI... a CO2 laser cannot engrave metal -- you will need a fiber laser for that. The CO2 laser can remove powder coating and anodization to reveal the silver base color. You can also using a marking spray to get a black mark on various, uncoated metals. Edit: just noticed this answered above. As for software, it depends on which machine you purchase and most will be compatible with Lightburn. There are tons of videos on Youtube that will show you how to prep your image for engraving.

Be careful with lasered stitch holes since they will have soot transfer over to the thread. You will have to clean out the holes which is a pain. I resorted to have the laser mark the stitch holes with the same spacing as my irons.

You started this thread over 2 years ago and you're still researching?

Do NOT soak or dampen the leather. Ask your supplier for sample pieces of leather that he uses for the wallets so you can run a speed / power test on them. This way you'll find out the correct laser settings for his finished products.

I use a low tack crepe tape mask (found on Amazon) which doesn't leave a glue residue behind when removed. Since it's low tack, make sure it's first applied very well to the leather surface by rubbing it -- fingers, bone folder, microfiber rag, etc. Laser settings are just enough to remove / cut through the crepe mask cleanly. I'm not looking for a deep engrave because the paint looks better when on the grain. The crepe mask may come loose at few places while airbrushing... just pay attention and press it back when it does. I reduce the paint and apply multiple coats to build up the pigments slowly. Too much paint applied quickly will result in a tacky finish.

With a laser, you can cut to exact dimensions since the pieces should mate up perfectly if they’re designed correctly. If the stitch holes are vectored, I don"t even need to use glue.

I've seen people make stamps using 1/4" acrylic with good results. Every laser machine is different so the engraving parameters are not going to be much help. You're better off doing a test swatch -- this way, you'll see which settings on your machine will give you the best results.

Google image search for royalty free, black & white vector designs or you can also buy various designs from places like Etsy for a good price.

My usual routine is to dye first (lighter colors to get more contrast), then engrave and finish last with bag kote or resolene. This is my routine for making patches. Haven’t tried antiquing a laser project, but I would try a test piece that is dyed and resisted first. Have the laser engrave, and burn away the resist which should hopefully create mask to allow the engraving to absorb the antique and wipe away from unwanted areas. For color filled projects, I apply masking tape (vinyl free) to my project, engrave, airbrush and then apply a finish.

Etsy brings in the most sales and that's because my Shopify site is only a couple months old. Shopify has brought in a handful of sales on its own but I've been using it more to sell custom requested items to people on Instagram and avoid the Etsy fees. Etsy has its good and bad points but I'm frustrated with their BS policies which hurts the true artisans and helps the vendors that sell mass produced items as "handmade".