Rylando

I’m making a steno padfolio based on the makers leather pattern, and no matter what chrome tan I use I always seem to lose stitch at this exact spot. the top thread starts getting fuzzy/ripped looking, I look down and sure enough I’ve lost stitch. I’ve tried full thickness (4-5oz or 5-6oz) layer, I’ve tried skiving it like this piece, nothing seems to help. I can sew it upside down so the increase in height is on the top side, and it’ll sew fine, but I don’t like having the backside needleholes on the “front” of the piece. No matter how many times I try and re-sew it it’ll fray the top thread and lose stitch every time, getting very frustrating. this is on a highlead GC0618-1-SC I’ve fit a servo motor to. help!

This is awesome!!! I’ve been so frustrated with my CB3200 for exactly this reason! It sucks down the edges and totally screws things up, it’s had me so frustrated I’ve almost sold it. How do I get one? I’m in Texas USA and have to have one! Lol.

Thanks for your advice! I can totally can see how beneficial the suction would be. Is it practical to try and attach a vacuum to it myself? Leaning towards the Cobra NP-4 right now as the table is on casters and half the size of a standard sewing machine table, and floorspace is an issue in my workshop at the moment. I got prices on the Campbell Randall skivers some time ago and while they're only an hour away from me, they are too expensive for my small operation at this point. Although I'm sure it's 100% worth it and I'll spring for one eventually.

I am looking at getting a tabletop skiver and I'm confused if there's any difference between all of these brands. All of the machines looks identical to me, but with different stickers and paint jobs. My local sewing machine shop can get a Consew DCS-S4 and the Highlead YXP-18 machines for around the same price of the Cobra NP4 (before shipping) and I'm wondering if there's any mechanical difference between these machines. I'm leaning towards the Consew as I can get it locally, but does the Cobra come with better add ons or some such? Also I saw Techsew makes another skiving machine. Confused on which to get!

#138 with the size 23 needles

Ah hah! I'm just a major dork then. I thought for whatever reason that 135x17 was the size of needle my machine took. I would've sworn these were marketed as leather needles when I bought them, but apparently not! Just as I thought I had this whole leather sewing thing down... lol. Just got home from the local sewing supply shop and they explained it to me, and hooked me up with some diamond and triangle needles, as those were all they had for leather. With diamonds the blow out is waaaay less! Thanks guys! I appreciate the help.

I am using a Highlead GC0618-1sc, and when sewing a clutch up that's gator embossed cowhide, I noticed some big holes punched on the bottom side of my leather. It really looks ugly to me. How can I fix this? From looking it up on this forum, it seems to be a needle issue? I tried to find Schmetz S type needles but they appear to not exist anymore, or I am looking in the wrong place. Any help is appreciated Attached are photos of the holes and the needles I am using.

Just as an aside, if you're looking for cheap leather to practice on, Springfield Leather Company sells $20 and $30 a SIDE ( half the cow ) oil tanned (chrome tan) good quality leather in that 4-5oz range. It's random brown colors but I really like it for trying new designs and ideas with before I move to a veg-tan. If you stick with chrome tan, in my experience, the best way to finish the edges is to cut everything a little big and trim it with one final cut once it's sewn or glued together well, that gives really clean edges and you can ditch sanding. Could also use that method with edge-paint, just don't bevel the edges. I wouldn't bevel the edges of oil-tan leather, I'd just focus on clean cuts. But that may just be my personal taste in chrome-tanned goods. But if you do decide to bevel, use Tokonole to burnish the edges. Otherwise it looks alot better than my first attempt!

Looks great! As an archer I'm jealous!

Pint and Quart sized Angelus dyes! I really like your $30 oil tan sides, they're great.

Wow, this is incredible!

Thanks everyone for the advice! I went with the Sailrite swing away binding attachment, and with a left/right toe it works great. I initially tried it with just a left toe foot, don't do that! lol. Using my standard needle plate. Works great for my exclusively straight runs on some light canvas/leather tote bags.

Can you link to what you're talking about? Where would I purchase those. I can't seem to find raised dogs or raised needle plates in my searching.

I am looking to sew binding onto canvas bags with my Highlead GC0618-1SC, and have no prior experience with binding. I've found these two binders online and am wondering what is the difference? I can't seem to find any information on this on the forum except that the Juki 1541 style machines may require a custom needle plate for this purpose, to get the binding closer to the needle? https://www.sailrite.com/Binder-1-Swing-Bracket?gclid=CjwKCAiAnIT9BRAmEiwANaoE1V8bsgJ6vdNDQKyZ_khzx5-GkQ0ShXo3301kp57xmFYk4FIQDIc2lxoC_FUQAvD_BwE and http://www.maquinsalsewingmachines.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=112 I understand the $150 one comes with feet, and a needle plate, but is the needle plate conversion needed for this purpose or would the sailrite swing away one work just as well?

PM sent

Ah! Maybe that was my problem. Will go bigger needle and try again soon. I should know better than to trust the first result for me on google https://www.servicethread.com/blog/industrial-sewing-thread-needle-sizes

Forgot to mention: The above pictures are with #138 thread and a size 21 needle. However, I get just fine results with #69 thread and a size 18 needle.

My highlead GC-0618-1SC is having an issue I'll describe as two steps forward one step backwards. When I get to a narrow section of a piece of leather, when the machine goes to walk the leather, it doesn't work quite right and seems to back it up a little bit before going forward and making the next needle hole. It only seems to happen on a narrow section where the leather probably isn't touching the needle plate underneath. The first picture is the underside of the stitch, where it suddenly starts looping on the bottom. The only reason why I can figure it does this, is because the leather doesn't touch the needle plate. Is that the right idea or am I going in the wrong direction? Could this be a tension problem or a mis-adjusted machine? The second picture shows the underside where it sews perfectly and no loops, and the third shows how it loops where it goes to a thin section. Any suggestions on whats happening here and/or how to fix this?

Thanks for the replies guys, after I made this last item I switched it over to #138 thread and didn't have any issues like shown. Gonna switch it back to #69 thread this week and play with it some more.

I'm using #69 thread on a Highlead GC0618-1sc and while the topside of my stitches look awesome, the underside moves around at random, one stitch will be perfectly in line, and the next will be a smidge above it, and it's driving me nuts! Attached is a picture of the wonky backside of stitching on this wallet I've made for myself, 4 layers of 3/4oz veg tan, while the topside looks just fine to me the bottom side like I said keeps "moving around". Any idea what is causing this? I can't seem to find any similar issues when searching the forum.

Hi, I picked up a used Highlead GC0618-1SC, couldn't refuse it at the price. I'd like to replace the clutch motor with a servo motor. I've used a CB3200 for a while now, and really REALLY love how I can go at a snails pace if I need to. This clutch motor is turned up to 11, I cannot really use it very well at all. No matter how gingerly I tickle the pedal, it is FULL BLAST. I would rather sell the old clutch and replace it with a servo than have to put up with this. Is it possible to slow it down somehow? or am I just stuck with this FULL SPEED mode? What am I looking at as a replacement? I would appreciate some advice on what to replace it with, maybe a cheap option and an option that would be like my CB3200? I have no clue about motors. What's on there now is a "frontier clutch motor, HP:1/2HP, Cycles: 60HZ, RPM:1725RPM" Also, does anyone know if juki 1541 parts fit this machine? It currently has the feet for fabric, and I'd like to replace them with smooth feet, along with getting an edge roller guide. I appreciate any help y'all can give me, thanks!

I appreciate your thoughts! I may have to contact them. I talked to the only other supplier of these linked in a past thread, aplus I think they're called. They do not carry them anymore, unless you want to order 5,000 pieces or more. Sent some emails out today to local sheet metal fab shops to see about getting some made, but most around me make big agricultural items so I am kinda doubting they'll be interested in small potatoes but we will see! May have to learn to make some myself in the mean time. I think more than anything it's bugging me that I can't find these anywhere, LOL! Seems like it must have another name than a "tape measure holder", used in another industry or something. Seems like it'd be next to the $2 holster belt clips at Tandy, but alas no.

So far I've found this https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Tape-Clip_109487865.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.0.0.3a1d1ea3loqYB7 Which is a "D/C tape clamp" or a "Bare Copper Tape clip" which seems to be a attachment system for flat copper wire, however I can't find any in the USA, only Alibaba. But I am not looking for 1k+ of them right now lol

Any suggestions on a supplier for tape measure holding clips? I know another member of the forum sells them for $7ish a piece, which is fine for one offs but I'm looking for the bulk sellers. Does everyone get theirs made overseas? Seems like this clip could be for something else instead of just tape measure holders.

Realized I totally posted this in the wrong section, if a mod could move it over to the laser section I'd be very appreciative