Jump to content

Mulesaw

Members
  • Posts

    772
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Mulesaw

  1. Very interesting, I never thought much about that the need for the shoulders to be able to move freely.

    I see a potential future harness build for my wife's labradoodle. My Newfoundland uses one of those Julius K9 harnesses, and I think it fits her pretty good. Though I am tempted to check according to your description of measurements.

    Brgds and Prost Silvester

    Jonas

  2. Very well written.

    I think you might have made a small mistake in:

    16 hours ago, Tove09Tilda said:

    A breastplate in horses prevents forward saddle movement; in dog harnesses, the chest strap primarily distributes pressure and stabilizes the harness. Anything positioned in front of the shoulder has the potential to restrict stride extension and must therefore be fitted to the individual dog. This is a common shortcoming of chest-strap harnesses when strap width and placement are poorly chosen.

    A breastplate on a horse prevents rearward movement. 

    Looking forward to seeing how you are doing the actual measurement.

    Good luck with the Internship in January

    Brgds
    Jonas 

  3. 4 hours ago, BlackDragon said:

    Each book will have different color marbled end pages, speckled page edges, and ribbons to match. Each of those colors will reflect the mood of the book. For instance, The Hobbit will have light brown marbled end pages, a dark brown ribbon, and light brown w/rust speckles page edges. It gives the feel of the earth because Hobbits like to grow things.

    As to the border lines around the covers I still haven't decided but I want to be consistant with all the books.

    That sounds like a fantastic idea. I can see that it is a difficult decision about any border lines, since they should compliment each individual book and still look good according to that books theme and cover.

    When they are all completed they will be look incredible!

    Brgds Jonas

  4. 3 hours ago, BlackDragon said:

    The single star on the front and the 3 on the back are holographic so they change color. The silver may work because one of the trees on the back is silver but it would break continuity with the other Tolkien books I plan to make.

    I didn't notice until now, that on your first picture, the front star is light blue, the noxt "purple/pinkish/gold" and then again iceblue on the last two pictures. Really a cool effect!

    If it breaks the continuity with the other books, I suppose it is better to go with something that will work on all of the books. 
    Metallic green (like a green june beetle) would look good too, but so would gold.

    What is your plan with the other three books, and the two line border line? 

    Brgds Jonas

     

  5. 14 hours ago, BlackDragon said:

    Do y'all think I should put a 2 line border on the front and back covers?

    If so, then I would suggest using two narrow silver lines, to correspond with the silver start in the middle, It would make the gold stars and the Elvish script stand out more that way. (I can't really see if the star is silver or a very light ice blue, but I would use that colour)

    Brgds Jonas

  6. That looks spectacular!

    Fantastic job, the black and white dotted edges and marbled pages looks like a lure to a bibliophile - whispering: I hold great secrets that you secretly yearn to read.

    Will it reside on your own bookshelf, or is it a Christmas gift to some lucky person?

    Brgds Jonas 

  7. Looking really good! Here's a similar seat that was fitted with new leather.  It is a project I would really like to try, but I haven't got any bikes with that style of seat. 
    My reasoning for 6 strand is that a seat lives a pretty rough life, there is plenty abrasion from the drivers legs and there is sunshine, rain and dust, all which is hard on the stitching.

    Brgds

    Jonas

     

  8. Strength wise, I think that a braided thread is stronger, but given the age of the motorcycle, I think waxed linen thread is the most correct thread to use.
    I would go with a 6 strand waxed linen thread, And I would reapply some wax to the thread once in a while while sewing. Just to make sure that the thread don't start to fray.

    It sounds like a great project, I hope you'll share some pictures once it is done.

    You could try to ask a shoe repair business or saddle maker if you could buy 10-15 yards of linen thread, (if there is a one of anywere near where you live). That is my best guess for getting hold of something before Christmas.

    Brgds
    Jonas

  9. My best suggestion is that the needles are wrong.

    There have been an international shortage of the correct needles for those machines, and my guess is that the previous owner tried to buy and use some non original needles from another outsole stitcher. 

    Where are you located in the world? perhaps some member near you have an original needle that you could try.

     

    I recently bought a small pack of needles from @Jennihaemae 

     

    They are cheap and the correct needles. 

    I think that her post got moved to "sold" due to the date (the posts will automatically be moved there after a certain time)
    You could try to send her a message.

    Brgds Jonas 

  10. Hello Tobias, and welcome to the forum 🙂

    At first your backpack reminded me of an old military backpack (Tornister), but with a different type of leather.

    My concerns with a backpack that is 25 x 20 is that it could easily look "roundish". Unless you add some stiffeners inside the sides like a small frame - or in the back part so that it will remain flat even after you put in a sweater or some other stuff.

    If you look at something like Schweizer Armee Segeltuch Rucksack, It is a classic rucksack, and it has a front pocket, and it still looks good (in my opinion). I am not sure how the internal stiffening is made on that one, but I think it important to have something to make it last for the next 50 years. It looks very similar to your picture, and one could make the backpack in the size that you are aiming for.

    I suppose it also depend on if you want to use the backpack for hiking or for everyday use or something else. If you want to use it for hiking, I think the shoulder straps should be wider compared to if you are going to use it as an everyday backpack to and from job/school etc.

    Brgds

    Jonas


     

     

  11. @DoubleKCustomLeathercraft

    Our small company uses IG and Facebook, but so far I don't think that we have had any business from IG. But it does help in getting people to know your business.

    I looked at your IG account, and the products and pictures look great. But you don't use hashtags. Hashtags I believe are part of what helps the algorithm sending suggestions to other people. 

    On your "hand of God" holster post, after your description of the product, you could write #handofgod #3:10to yuma #gunslinger #holster #western   etc.
    Lets say someone searches IG for a HandofGod rig, then the search function will show those thigns marked specifically with the corresponding hashtags first. THere is no limit to how many hashtags you can use (as to my knowledge), but I try to limit myself to the most meaningful ones.

    People on IG seem to love watching how things are made. So I have had far more views on small videos (reels) also with hashtags. It could be watching your hands do a bit of handstitching, or skiving some leather, using a sewing machine etc. You can edit the reel in IG, and for instance increas the speed or choose only a part of the film. There is also a thing called time lapse, which is good if you want to make a long project very short. Your phone will take a picture every 5 seconds or whatever you set it to do, and the result is that a 10 minutes job is compressed to 20 seconds, and it still looks good. 

    I think that it is difficult to sell custom leather products via Instagram, since most people would probably like to feel and touch the products before buying them, but it could create an interest for your business.

    By far our best marketing is "word of mouth" So if there's a shooting range nearby or a gun club etc. it might be worth going there and having a cup of coffee and showing your products to them. But that is a whole different subject 🙂

    Hope it was of a little help.

    Brgds Jonas

  12. On 10/13/2025 at 2:39 AM, TomE said:

    @Mulesaw Wanted to thank you again for this tutorial, Jonas. Followed your method for installing the zipper and it went smoothly with a nice neat result.  I am using V92 thread with 2 stitch lines along each side of the zipper.  My patcher has trouble accommodating the thickness of the heel so I switched machines and used V138 thread to sew across the bottom of the zipper.  I need more practice sewing straight lines with the patcher, especially when sewing the far/back side of the zipper that is harder to see.  However, things are going in the right direction.

    Glad to hear that it is helpful 🙂

    The heel part is difficult, I think the most challenging boots are those where the small flap is very close to the heel, it is difficult to get the patcher close enough, and it is easy to break a needle then. I always make sure to remove any inlay soles, as that can give just a fraction of an inch more room.

    Sewing straight is a challenge, and it doesn't help when the inner lining suddenly rides on the edge of the needle plate, that is enough to shift the stitch line 1/16", To avoid that, I try to sew my straight lines while holding the boot (and adjusting the patcher) to maybe 20-30 degrees to your right. (If sewing straight away from you is 12 o'clock, then sewing at 4:30 - 5 o'clock) can help so that the inner lining doesn't suddenly go down the side of the needle plate. 

    Brgds Jonas

     

  13. Hi Tove

    I think a Y shaped harness is a good idea. My only suggestion would be to go down a bit on the thickness of the leather. 
    3.5 -4 mm might look a bit overbuilt/heavy when you also add the padding. But I guess it depends on how much your dog likes to pull on the leash when there is an interesting scent 🙂

    How do you plan to adjust it and mount it on your dog? Will you use Velcro or buckles for adjusting?

    Brgds Jonas

  14. 2 hours ago, billybopp said:

    For the most part, you wouldn't want to split anything wider than 7-8 cm in any case.  At that width it gets VERY hard to pull the leather through.  I have a small Tandy splitter, and the widest I ever split is 38mm for belts, and that takes a LOT of hard pulling to get through even when the blade is freshly stropped.   

    - Bill

    That is really good information! I have looked at the maximum width as a bit crucial without actually having the need. Most of my needs for splitting stuff is also strap related, and most of the straps are 1-1,5" in width. So I guess I can safely buy a Temu splitter then 🙂 I never really thought about the power needed to pull leather through, but it makes a lot of sense.

    2 hours ago, Tove09Tilda said:

    Thank you Jonas, 
    I already had a look at Kleinanzeigen (no saddlery tools at all, or for a hell lot of money!) and Facebook, but that is not necessarily that popular in Germany. 
    I already saw the Tandy/IVAN "rebuilds" and was wondering if anyone has one of these and might be able to tell a bit about it. 
    I guess 7-8 centimetres still does the job. I will have a look at those and try to figure out more about their quality and ability to do their job! 
     

    If it is a Tandy "rebuild" there should be a high chance that the Tandy/ Ivan HI-TECH Baldes for 45€ a pack should fit. To me that sounds like a good bet. 

    Best, 
    Tove

    I always look at "Lederspaltmaschine" or Schusterwerkzeug, but whenever I find anything interesting, it is in Baden Württemberg or Bayern, and that is sadly a long way from the northern part of Denmark 🙂
    At the moment I am tempted to drive to Rheinstetten (76287) for a really cool timber framing saw (There is a great tradition for timberframing in Germany, much more than in Denmark) But it is quite a long way with a trailer to pick it up.

     

  15. Splitters seem to hold their value really well.

    I have considered buying one from Temu, they have one that looks a lot like the standard Tandy/Ivan model,and it is inside your budget frame. But it is only able to split around 7-8 cm as far as I have been able to tell.

    If you are mainly dealing with straps of various widths, it might be enough though.
    They are experts in taking photos that make the stuff look bigger than it is. And they inform about the total widfth of the machine(24 cm) and the total width of the blade (15 cm), but most of the time they don't tell the usable size of the blade. 

    I am guessing that most Tandy splitters are made in China as well, so the quality is probably similar. You might need to resharpen the blade, as it might not be super sharp out of the box.

    There is also Kleinanzeigen.de and Facebook marketplace that might have some that you can use. But for your budget, Temu / Alibaba is probably the best bet.

    Brgds Jonas

×
×
  • Create New...