Klara

Probably too simple, but how much is "a little"? Would a bigger/longer buckle be sufficient?

My point is that Stohlman's method needs a lot of practice, so if you want to finish fairly quickly the wallet you have started, I would recommend one-handed stitching. Also, Stohlman uses an awl, and you already have the holes. For a first "proper" handsewing project I recommend something where you won't see the backside of your stitching. I made padded dog collars, they are perfect (also I needed them). Lined bracelets would work the same. Or a belt if you are really ambitious.

Cool hardware! Would never have thought to use those - what are they called?

My vote is for handstitching this wallet as Dwight describes, that method has the advantage of not needing a stitching pony. Secondly I'd get one of those (easy to build if you have a few tools and scraps of wood lying around - if you don't, buying one is probably cheaper and faster). And then practice with Stohlman's book in front of you on some leather scraps. But that's another topic...

I don't have a lot of experience with leather, just with crafts in general which has mostly taught me that there's nearly always more than one "right way" (and "wrong ways" also may lead to good results). So I don't sweat the small stuff - leatherwork isn't precision engineering and generally it doesn't matter whether the leather for a project is the exact thickness of the one seen in the video/book. And if I don't nick my project idea from somewhere, I'm on my own anyway. Yes, I skive by hand. The trick is to have a really sharp knife - what sort doesn't matter for edges and strap ends. I generally use one from my kitchen (handforged by a friend and possibly more expensive than the rest of my tools together - but I happen to have it). The only skiver I don't get along with is Ivan's safety skiver with disposable blades. Of course "those in the business" will use a gauge if you ask them for the exact thickness. But would they use a gauge for choosing leather for a project? Or would they just think "oh, that looks suitable for a checkbook cover, I'll take that"? By all means, if you want a gauge, get one. But as I said before, I don't feel the need for one or even particularly want one.

Personally, I only care about the number when ordering leather (which I find very difficult, I much prefer to buy in person). When using it, I just look and feel whether the leather seems thick or thin enough, and otherwise suitable for what I want to make. For the number of oz or mm is not the whole story, leather can also be stiff or supple... When skiving edges, I mostly take off as much as I dare (and one of JH's standard instructions for strap ends is "skive down to nothing"). So far, I haven't missed a leather gauge... (if I needed one I'd use my electric sliding calipers as shown by @MtlBiker )

Thanks, guys!

Sorry, couldn't find an off-leather-topic section where the question would fit: Am I right in thinking that kitchen knives are honed with the infamous steel rod thingy, because the steel is considered more hygienic than a leather strop? Because I've never seen or heard/read about a leather strop in a kitchen. My problem is just that I'm dubious about the quality of my steel (bought it ages ago when I hardly knew anything about knives, and cheaply), so I'd prefer to hone my new knives on my strop - and I guess there's no reason not to do it, or is there? (I'm only cooking for myself, I'm not poisoning anybody else...)

Thanks for the pictures! It's not how I imagined, but most probably looks better. The bottom corners sure look tricky... and the rest not too easy either. I think that's a case where I wouls punch the holes all the way through so I could work without awl - did you?

I thought the same thing, but then I held an A4 notebook against me and it's actually pretty big. I suspect the side seam is in the middle so that both front and back contribute to the gusset. Or??? I believe A3 printers are pretty rare...

That's really nice! Could you show us a picture from the side, please? I'm interested in the gusset and the bottom corners...

Now I'm happy that I use my surplus gutters for the storage of metal rods and wood... Incidentally, I don't think the pipes used to carry water into the house are big enough for serious storage as you would lose pressure with big pipes. In my house they are about garden hose size. And the mains is not much bigger. (And all of them are full of water - no air, so Antman's idea from the first movie wouldn't work.)

Exactly. Because with fewer skills they will work slower and thus earn less per hour, even though the finished item costs the same. That's assuming they can produce the same quality in the end, with equivalent material.

I also know genuine leather as a rather derogatory term (https://www.businessinsider.com/what-is-genuine-leather-2016-1?r=US&IR=T) which we probably should NOT use.

Wrong comparison. Jesse Owens was a sprinter annd long jumper - quantifiable sports. If you are the best, you are, not much quibbling about it. How many black dressage riders do you know? For there the results depend on the judges' perceptions. And of course, first you need to get to competition level.. (https://www.elle.com/fashion/a34050278/black-equestrians/) With quality and price of goods it's similar: Few absolutes, it's about what the customers see and think and feel.

Yeah, well.... The way I see it, amateurs (not meant in a negative sense) should not undercut the prices of professionals. Because if they do, and if there are enough of them around (as in knitting) it becomes extremely difficult for the pros to sell their goods.

Signature lines are only visible on a PC - or on a tablet with desktop view enabled, or what it's called. @Warhauk This is the site https://www.internationalleatherclub.com/

I agree with everything that has been said (and wish I had had - and would have believed - Spyros's statement on the market setting the price 15 years ago). I'd just like to add that for me the key to a higher price is personalisation. Offering something the customer just can't buy elsewhere. Last winter I made good money on spinning and knitting stump warmers for an amputee, made to her measurements. A leatherworking colleague recommended I get a set of letter stamps so I could personalise dog collars in my booth (he adjusts the belts to the customer's size while selling). That might work for bondage cuffs as well... The other question is: Do you really have to sell? Wouldn't it be more fun to just make what strikes your fancy for your personal use and as gifts? All hobbies cost money, some a lot of it - why should leatherwork be different? (Regarding the knitting last winter: Yes, I made decent money, perhaps for the first time ever, but it was very little fun. Now I'm doing a sweater for myself...) If you need money, there are easier ways to get it than by setting up as a self-employed artisan! (When you are using the fabulous things you made and people are begging you to make them the same you can still quote a price. However, I am still waiting for somebody to even notice my dog's fabulous collars...)

Back to the original question of chrome vs. veg tan: The way I see it, most serious leatherworking videos and books (Stohlman, Valerie Michael, Nigel Armitage) are made with and for veg tan and the techniques shown just don't work with chrome tan. Advice about working with chrome tan I have found packaged as "fashion accessories in leather", "make your own handbag" - books along these lines. I haven't bought them, so don't have any details. But I believe that chrome tan often enough borriws techniques used with fabric - rolled edges are just a form of hem. And there is a glovers needle with an edged point that cuts through leather and replaces the awl - I strongly suspect it has its name because it was used for sewing gloves. Personally, I mix and match whatever works for my project (many of my dog collars are veg tan exterior with chrome tan interior over the padding) and I'd recommend you do the same. Figuring out what works is a big part of the fun (at least for me). Regarding the price of materials vs. the price of finished goods: I once thought the same thing as you. Then I discovered that good-quality veg tan IS expensive (if a price seems too good to be true, something IS wrong! ). And pros who need to make repeatable goods can't work with scraps and leather from sales, they need to pay full price for a reputable suppliers permanent line. The brilliant thing is that as amateurs that need not concern us: We can buy whatever catches the eye and then find something to do with it. Or have a precise idea in mind and find the perfect piece of leather. And if we don't count our time - because it is a hobby and you don't get any money for sitting in front of the TV either - the things we make can be a lot cheaper than if we would buy them.

I've only ordered some snaps from China and the quality is not great, I believe. My favourite supplier is Pethardware in Czech Republic, because they have the biggest selection of stainless steel hardware I've found. I am using their snaps, rings and buckles on my dog's collars and leashes without a problem. You'll have to deal with shipping and customs, though... https://www.pethardware.com/en/

Best of luck! And yes, it's always a good idea to practice with small items before starting a big project and making big mistakes... I'm off to correct a major, idiotic and unnecessary mistake that can only be explained by too much alkohol over Christmas...

I have found that Al Stohlman's instructions work - as long as I follow them. Trouble starts when I try to improve on them or cut corners. So in your place I would re-read the book, if necessary previous books as well and then do exactly as Stohlman says.

I would be already happy with more precise written information: Is the problem that you can't poke your awl through the leather? Then sharpening the awl might help. Or is the problem that you can't miter your leather? Then you either have the wrong leather for the job or your knife is not sharp enough. Btw, which book are you talking about? I can't find The Art of Leatherwork, never mind a volume 2...

Very nice!

I dare say that an Osborne is already pretty good - certainly better than the cheapie I have (got a head knife for Euro 20 to see whether I like the style). I don't believe that any knife just "soars" through leather (the best I hope for is easy, smooth cutting) - and, btw, leather quality makes a difference as well. As chrisash says, look further into sharpening and using a round knife and above all, make a strop for honing if you don't have one. It makes all the difference, as unbelievable as it sounds (personally I don't get how such a little thing makes such a big difference, but it does). Merry Christmas to you!