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Klara

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Everything posted by Klara

  1. kop4 wrote that we should keep oxygen, i. e. air out: "Oxygen messes with this system. Obviously there is oxygen in the atmosphere and dissolved in your solution, and this can oxidize the iron ions – it will take them from the 2+ state to the 3+ state. Fe3+ or iron(III) is NOT what we want, because it is orange and gross and not soluble in water. If this forms, it creates an orange/brown powdery solid that sinks to the bottom of the jar. To prevent the oxidation of the iron in solution, we need to keep the pH LOW and keep the oxygen out of the system as much as possible – by not pouring or shaking the solution. " But I admit that I was to lazy to find the air lock so I did just leave the lid on loosely. And I don't think that's the problem - but there is a problem: After 24 hours the solution just doesn't dye. One leather gets a very light grey touch, the other nothing. Maybe I didn't use enough steel wool? Does anybody have a ratio of steel to vinegar?
  2. Why wouldn't it? There we want hydrogen to get out and oxygen to not get in - seems a very similar situation to me (not a reason to buy an air lock, but I should have one lying around ftom my mother's wine making attempts). @kop4 Thanks for the write-up! I didn't find it boring at all and will likely try it in the near future
  3. As somebody who has been perfectly happy with her kitchen for the past 20 years I have a solution to that problem: Find a way to provisionally furnish the space in the way you think will work best and work there for some time. Also, get good quality furniture - the best you can afford. I didn't for my wood workshop and I get annoyed every time I open one of the shitty drawers. Which isn't all that often, fortunately. But still, if I had spent more I would have forgotten the cost by now but I would still have decent furniture... @LatigoAmigo Great solution! I'll try to keep it in mind for when I need something like it!
  4. Firstly, I was not criticising you, but giving you credit for the search. I'm criticising the search results, or rather the people who make knife rolls that I consider dangerous to use. Secondly, my sister's knives were in a hardcase, not a roll (she's a trained chef, and yes, my mother was shocked by the price of the knives). I admit that visible blades might make it easier to choose a knife, but I wouldn't want to grab a sharp knife by its blade, with more blades next to it. I'd also figure that having the blades in individual sheaths would protect them even better. And you could shape each sheath like the knife that goes into it, so one would still see which knife is where. Now I almost want to make a knife roll... Except I have strictly no need for one. A belt sheath for my Opinel would be more useful.
  5. If it was cheap and is soft it is very probably chrome tanned and most of the information on "leatherwork" on the Internet doesn't apply.
  6. JH Leather has videos on making an English bridle on Youtube.
  7. I agree, that seems the logical way to do it to me, hence my above reference to Hansaplast (they make plasters etc.)
  8. Why do most of the knife rolls in mrwatch's search have the handle in a pocket and the blade free? Sponsored by Hansaplast? What I would be tempted to do, but I don't know whether I could pull it off (I'm not even sure whether it would make sense) is to have three sheaths in the upper half, handle pointing down, and three sheaths in the lower half, handle pointing up. The aim being to even out the bulk of the handles.
  9. My horse tack always dried out much too quickly, but I couldn't give you a time. I would wipe the suspenders off with absorbant paper and then hang them up to dry out of direct sunlight. And then wait for a few days to see what happens...
  10. You very probably have chrome-tanned leather, not the veg-tanned that is used in most videos. (Or your beveler is not sharp enough..)
  11. First I thought, "lots of work for a few scratches" but then it came that you are probably transferring intricate designs to leather for tooling, aren't you? Congratulations for finding the solution to your problems! Sadly I don't have any suggestions, because I only ever do a few scratches for cutting, and I use a simple "automatic sewing" awl for that. Or a doffer stick that came with my drum carder. My diamond awl handle has flattened sides so as not to roll on the table and I filed it down until it fit my hand.
  12. I think - somebody please correct me if I'm wrong - that burnishing works well for leathers that are natural colour or died through. Or where you don't mind if the edge is a different colour. If you do mind, edge paint is the way to go (would leather dye and burnishing work? The sales woman said no, but maybe she wanted to sell edge paint or maybe my question was not clear). And only fairly stiff, thick leathers can be burnished. I've also thought, but maybe I'm wrong, that edge paint was just a product like Tokonole, which one applied prior to polishing. In other words, first one applies a clear or coloured substance, depending on the look one wants, and then elbow grease for shine.
  13. No, but I'm starting to believe they are immortal (Highlander-style): Unless you cut off the head (or destroy it with a good wack), they rise again...
  14. I've glued the flesh (rough) side to the wood and rubbed the honing compound to the hair side (smooth). I have a grey strop and a green one (Dialux as well) but mostly use the green.
  15. Had to look up the Travelall and I have no idea how big their door panels were, but I still could see black on black flowers as part of a bag or briefcase...
  16. Why? Just look at the belt dying mistake thread... I could see the panel either multicoloured or all black as YinTx suggested, depending on what you want to use it for.
  17. Do NOT use double-sided adhesive tape from a leather shop. It is meant for sticking leather together prior to sewing and won't pull off cleanly. Guess how I found that out?
  18. Actually, would a swivel knife be necessary for long straight lines? I am asking as somebody who hasn't done any tooling. But from what I've read the swivel knife is necessary for small cuts, curves, precision work? I don't have one and am trying to not buy any tools for a while. But I could cut with a kitchen knife and bevel with a screwdriver, maybe?
  19. If you want to hunt flies, come over here...
  20. Yes, I see. Your leather must be more flexible than mine, but this black plastic-coated sh*t is firstly easy to clean, secondly good enough to practice with and thirdly I'll be happy to use it up...
  21. I like your corners on the square tray! What shape did you cut them? The best shape I found yesterday was to round them off, but the result is very different from yours: I don't mind that the angles won't be as sharp as if it was a wooden tray - I could always make a wooden tray if I wanted sharp angles and corners. And if I made a small stuff bowl in felt, it would be even more rounded...
  22. A single layer of veg tan split leather won't be square or straight either, as I found out yesterday. But it does the job...
  23. I was thinking about that, but as I mentioned above, I currently have a dedicated nylon belt with attached pouches and I find it very helpful that I can just grab the belt and be sure to have everything I need.
  24. Hahns Atelier have a video on Youtube about copying (?) the Hermes version. They use two full-size layers of fairly thin leather and sandwich a square of stiff split leather between them on the bottom.
  25. Isn't a golf ball much too large for an awl haft? Regarding picture size, I can reduce it in my tablet's viewing app (Samsung A8)
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