Klara

That's why I went to the "better" store and not the one that is famous for selling cheap stuff. My research consisted in asking a friend who makes knives and uses one what I should get to drill straight holes in my spindle whorls and his answer was: Anything. Btw, I have a feeling that the drill bits are just as important as the motor, if not more so... And another feeling that there is a huge amount of crappy bits on the market... (OT: Do you have a sighthound? Which breed and what do you do with him or her?)

Is it a treadle sewing machine? Great find, but I would definitely NOT use it for this job. As @fredk has said, this would be more difficult with a sewing machine then by hand.

I haven't yet used it for leather, but years ago I went into the better brand of home improvement retailer and bought the cheapest drill press they had. So far it has always done the job.

That's why it would be great if you could practice on something else than your good new pair. For example to test if you need a glovers needle or if you can poke the holes with a round awl. I think the first thing you need to do is get over your fear of handsewing! Hey, saddle stitching is more difficult than working with one needle! So find some clothing that needs some sort of repair (replacing a button on a shirt, putting elbow patches on one, repairing a piece of broken hem) and do it, just to get over your phobia ;) Sorry, but you comes across as handsewing-phobic, for which there is no reason if you can handle two needles for saddle stitching. Btw, I could imagine saddle stitching working (though I'd not like to try it on the new pair): Punch the holes seperately through the waist band and the button strap, and then line up the holes with the first needle. Might work. Or not...

I agree with billybopp, only where I live the normal postal service is the most reliable. I am not happy if I am forced to use UPS or similar...

Things done wrong: Erroneous description on the website (there was a language problem involved, shouldn't be an issue for you). Done right: Samples sent I haven't ordered all that much online, because I'm lucky enough to have a shop fairly close by and buying there is much easier. But as a general rule, I need very detailed descriptions and good photos. For irregular shaped pieces of leather I want to know not only the total square centimeters (or inches) but useful length x width (long enough for a belt?) For tools I would want to see the measurements as well, or a photo of the tool in somebody's hand (I nearly ordered a V gauge that looked good online, but in reality it is so tiny I could hardly hold it). If you want to sell to beginners, it would be helpful if you wrote what tools are for and which rivet to use when. And what to do with various pieces of leather. (Or you could just send people here...) Not in a leather context: I absolutely hate it when a company sends out a "your order is on its way and can no longer be cancelled" mail 3 seconds after I've sent off the order - and then it takes 3 weeks for the package to arrive within Europe (mostly an Amazon marketplace thing). I love it when I can call a small shop to discuss my needs (and they are then taken care of, like a PayPal address in case the bank transfer doesn't go through for next-day shipping). Btw, PayPal is by far my preferred method of payment. I hate it when shipping cost goes UP with order value. Intellectually I realise that I have to pay the shipping somehow, but I'm still more likely to order if shipping is free. Or free above a certain amount. Of course, the order should arrive quickly and above all complete. And if I complain that some needles are missing, that I have taken the box apart for recycling and that there is no hole in the cardboard - then I don't want "have you really looked" as a reply. On communication in general (but that may be a cultural thing, I'm a German living in France): I very much appreciate getting the feeling that I'm communicating with a human being. Big shops especially in English speaking countries sometimes send very long, ultra polite standard mails that have very little to do with what I've actually asked and sometimes add up to "sorry, we can't do anything". I much prefer two sentences to the point, and that preferably solve the problem. And on that note I'd better stop...

Does your picture in the second post show the outside of the strip of leather (under the button)? To me it looks as if the thread holding the button's strip of leather was stitched through the leather of the trousers, meaning you don't even need a curved needle. You don't absolutely need a glovers needle either, because you can always poke the holes with a round awl (the diamond awls I know are maybe a bit big). And as you know, handsewing is just "needle in, needle out". Your stitches will probably be a bit bigger, but so what... Punching the holes with a diamond chisel might work as well, at least on the strip of leather (on the trousers only if you want holes all the way through). Do you have a very old pair that is completely beyond saving? Then you could experiment on that. Just to gain confidence sewing that type of leather. In any case, I would NOT take the new pair to a tailor or cobbler who very likely never have seen Lederhosen. Before doing that I'd return it to the seller.

Actually, I've gotten used to the red strap. I'll wait till water contact during paddling has ruined it and then I'll make another one.

So you want to improve the look of the sweater for everyday wear? Then a plastic edging probably won't do... I'd think that acrylic paint should pretty much waterproof the leather from the outside - maybe put another layer on the inside? I did not treat the patches on my shirt, but there is a high likelihood that the leather came from my mom's winter boots, because I have had it since long before I learnt about leatherwork and where to buy leather. So the tannery probably did something to improve water resistance.

Speaking of filling: You do have only one card in each slot, don't you? I've discovered that makes a huge difference to how a wallet wears...

To me it looks as if the leather had "retracted" because at the back there are no cards to stretch it out. It also looks as if the lower part on the left (open wallet) was a bit narrower than the top. If that is so I would guess that the reason is there being fewer layers of cards. The first thing I would try is a different type of leather. Or decide that I don't care because the wallet works and looks perfectly fine.

I can confirm that Barry King awls are sharp when sold (the seller let me try one when I wondered about the price). Only problem is, they won't stay that way forever, and what then? So I bought cheapies and am trying to learn to sharpen them.

Would one of these work? (Searched for fixed eye) https://www.pethardware.com/en/snap-hooks/all/#/dfclassic/query=fixed eye &session_id=2d59c40d1eb5c41cf40a1512a100c67d&query_name=match_and

Beautiful! A fly should feel honoured to be swatted by that...

Given that the whole point of using leather in the first place is that it will last a lifetime, the collars should be good to sell if they pass your inspection. The only exception would be if your skill has increased so much with 10 years of experience that they are not up to your current standards. And even then you might decide to sell them at a reduced price. Or not...

This is a seriously beautiful bridle! The padded, wide headband looks super comfy.

I second the clock/timer suggestion!

Yep, I like the shape as well! Surprising at first, but then it occurred to me that the only reason most coasters are round is that they are stamped out in mass production. Yours are really unique pieces!

Brilliant! I want one - I have a metal water holder with a belt clip where the water sloshes out regularly. Gotta check out how to make pine pitch... @chuck123wapati I find using a well-made, sharp scythe is easy enough and a lot more pleasant than a motorized mower. The most difficult part is sharpening the scythe...

What exactly are you trying to achieve with your "leather" cuffs? Btw, I just remembered, I have sewn a leather patch on the elbow of a shirt when a hole appeared, because I wanted to prolong its lifetime. In all likelihood it was chrometan and the patched shirt has been in the washing machine quite a lot of times. Only problem is the hole in the other elbow that just appeared... And the frayed edges...

How about putting grommets in both parts (or otherwise stabilizing the holes) and lacing the cuffs onto the fabric? In my opinion, in order to be laundry-proof, the leather would have to be so drenchend in/coated with chemicals that I don't quite see the point of using leather (instead of some sort of man-made material).

The black part seems to have been a browser problem - the picture cut off after 3 minutes and the music continued. Yesterday, today it seems fine. Strange...

I don't see the point of the first video, sorry. For me it's much too fast to see what you are doing. And in the second video there is two minutes of black screen at the end, whereas the interesting bits in the middle are sped up again. Was that really your intention? Or did you forget to cut off the music? Another thing: Personally, I only watch instructional videos without somebody explaining what they are doing (meaning talking, direct or voice over doesn't matter) if there is absolutely no alternative. Which is not the case for leatherwork. So I think, if you absolutely don't want to talk, you are better off making advertising videos to attract customers. Just my opinion, but you asked for it.

Great job, the book looks beautiful! And I envy your engraving skill!

I made a first strap from chrome tanned leather (lamb nappa on the inside) which turned out ugly but comfortable. My second one is from veg tan (same leather on the inside) and looks better, I think, but it feels stiff and uncomfortable. The thing is, I bought an Orient Blue Moon (very reasonably priced as automatic watch go) with leather strap and it also feels stiff and uncomfortable. So how is a good watch strap supposed to feel? Is it worth greasing/oiling the red leather (from the underside for a new strap, the red is a sort of coating) or should that have been done during tanning (i. e. do I need to find a different leather) ?