Klara

Beautiful work! But, from what I've seen in videos, the dogs do pull before they are let off the leash for the attack - but maybe you mean something different by "working collar"? I was thinking of the "classic" competition for Malinois - ring, Schutzhund, IPO (depending on the country). And are Kennel Club show judges allowed to know which dog they are judging? Under FCI rules all identifying marks are forbidden. And show collars are generally much thinner and unobtrusive, to allow the judge to see the dog's neck. With too wide a collar I've gotten negative remarks on Rika's neck

More important: French pricking irons (not chisels) are meant for marking stitches and then using an awl to make the hole (unless you are working with very thin leather, <1.5 mm). If you want to work without awl, get diamond chisels. You can use them for punching through the leather, or for just marking your stitches, depending on how hard you hit them.

I forgot about my vinegaroon for a bit over a year and remembered it only last week (the bottle was closed - no idea whether the steel wool is still in there or whether I had taken it out) when I needed watery black dye and found I only had edge paint. The vinegaroon worked beautifully!

Maybe a crazy idea - but if you used to buy from the manufacturer, who stopped making them - what has he done with the molds? Could you possibly get hold of them?

I believe this is normal. I seem to remember that when Jo from JH Leather (YouTube channel) pulls straps through a skiving machine, they come out considerably longer than they were. Having a razor sharp knife should help a bit.

Thanks for the explanation, TomE I'm surprised that it is even an issue for individuals. I believe the only smooth rubber grips I've seen were in riding schools...

Beautiful! The reins are rubber-coated, aren't they? How did you do that?

Great work! And those Quarter Horses look fine to me! (If that's what they are supposed to be )

I have a cheap version of this - which I know in English as head knife - (without an edge on the inside od the point) and it has a double bevel (like the one in the video, IMHO). The blade is just relatively thin, so the double bevel (or would you simply call it edge?) doesn't show a lot. But I sharpen the edge at an angle on both sides. That said, I don't see any need for a round knife - if I ever want to upgrade I'll buy a better head knife...

Most of the chrome tan I use is finished/surface treated/coated when I buy it so I don't do anything to it except maybe Tokonole on the edges. But if you have good results with Neat-Lac on your leather, I see no reason not to use it.

Jo from JH Leather does it as well, I've learned it from her. I feel that the stitch helps to pull the straps together behind the buckle.

Direct answer to the original question: There is not one easiest way, it depends on what you want to cut in which shape. Sam Andrew's method in the above-mentioned video is rather similar to Jo's from JH Leather. Except she uses a headknife, holds the point against the table and pulls the leather against the knife. The method needs a very sharp knife and a rather stiff, thick leather. For thin leather I either work with a ruler, or I rock the head knife (for lack of a rotary cutter), or I might even use scissors. As for long(ish) straps, I love my strap cutter!

Not everybody uses a groover, it's as simple as that. @Key Really fine leather is not sewn in saddle stitch, as far as I know, but with glover's needles. The names indicate the purpose. And frankly, I would think that shoes are a very different subject altogether. Because, as with saddles, it's not just a question of making an item well, but of making something that fits well, which adds a whole other dimension. In your place I would start out leatherwork with Jo's pattern for a needle case. It's free, easy to make and you end up with a useful item. Then maybe a checkbook cover, if you use checks. Or a simple wallet or card holder. Those are essentially flat items, which simplifies things. Then move up to 3D bags (those with a gusset) - I find them much more difficult, if only because they are more difficult to hold for stitching. And then consider what you really want to do.

Sorry, but my information is different: My French supplier states clearly that the things with the V-shaped teeth are pricking irons for marking stitches and that you can't pierce leather that's more than 1.5 mm thick. https://www.decocuir.com/griffe-frapper-precision-deco-cuir-300-n9-2dents-c2x36253279 Which is logical if you look at the teeth. @Key There are quite a lot of good suppliers in England (AbbeyofEngland, for one), and several leatherworkers with YouTube channels, amongst them J.H. Leather and Nigel Armitage. Who incidentally have practically opposite way of working, but both produce wonderful things. Have fun discovering leatherwork! Btw, TomE mentioned a stitching pony: If you have any experience with woodwork, (access to) tools and some wood, you can make one easily yourself.

Personally I am in favour of only marking my stitches and working with an awl. It is more difficult at first, I made quite a few things I am not proud of, meaning it's an investment in time and leather. But the stitching irons can be cheap - I am happy with Chinese sets. Incidentally, if you get diamond irons, you are not forced to punch right through - with a slight tap you are still only marking your stitches. I am still using the ones I got at the very beginning in a "6 leather tools for € 20" (or so) package.

I'm not a native speaker, but shouldn't that be "She has many years of experience in..." And does one really fashion skills? I thought skills are acquired or learned... By the way, what exactly do you mean by "leather detailing"?

I admit, I've made quite a few dog collars and I've never tried to sharpen a punch. I did buy a new one, though, when the 0.75 mm one suddenly made much bigger holes because the edge had broken off (in case anybody wonders: The tiny holes are not for the buckle, but for decorative rivets.) That's how I learned that wood is not a good base for punching (I then bought a small piece of that white stuff that's made for purpose). I have a handle with screw-in punch bits - the small bits cost very little money. And yes, the smaller the punch, the easier the leather gets stuck, but I just live with it and poke out the plugs. If I do it regularly, it's quickly done.

If you can afford it, company tape for all your packages would be a good idea, I think. At Micropolis we had a box that would otherwise have been lost come back to us because of the tape. I'm not a fan of the hole in the hide either, but a hide without hole is being used by https://www.decocuir.com/ Probably not internationally protected, but it's how the shortcut appears in my browser...

Now that sketch looks very much like the old communist "hammer and sickle" symbol

Do you really want to announce to the world that you are a brand new company? I wouldn't include the date for the first 10 years at least... As for the rest - it's not a shape and colour scheme that immediately appeals to me (I'm not American and the shape reminds me of Opel), but it is distinctive and you can make it stand for high-quality leather supplies. That said, I am not sure whether any of my suppliers even have a logo... For me a name and Internet address that are easy to remember are much more important!

I think that's best discussed privately, I sent you a message.

I startet out with a drill stand (had a drill). It was not much cheaper than a cheap drill press, I had a hard time fitting the drill, then the drill broke, then the stand... With the drill press I haven't had any problems. Btw, it's so heavy I've never seen any need to mount it on the bench. In your place I'd keep it mobile if you do any woodworking - once you have it, you'll find uses for it.

That's why I went to the "better" store and not the one that is famous for selling cheap stuff. My research consisted in asking a friend who makes knives and uses one what I should get to drill straight holes in my spindle whorls and his answer was: Anything. Btw, I have a feeling that the drill bits are just as important as the motor, if not more so... And another feeling that there is a huge amount of crappy bits on the market... (OT: Do you have a sighthound? Which breed and what do you do with him or her?)

Is it a treadle sewing machine? Great find, but I would definitely NOT use it for this job. As @fredk has said, this would be more difficult with a sewing machine then by hand.

I haven't yet used it for leather, but years ago I went into the better brand of home improvement retailer and bought the cheapest drill press they had. So far it has always done the job.