DoogMeister

I don't thin the dye for the airbrush, but to lighten the effect. You are correct, it is already thin enough to spray. It takes more coats to develop a darker finish, giving me more time to decide what I want the item to look like. One can always add another coat, but removing too much dye is another story. I like the fact that with the airbrush I can easily do multi-color finishes, fade the color to darker on the edges, and dye the tooling one color and the background another.

I've used Feibing's leathercraft cement. Looks like white glue. Apply to the filligree side and press together until set, let dry overnight before using.

I use Feibing's Pro dyes, usually thinned with 91% alcohol, almost always applied with an airbrush. Saddle soap to clean any hand oils, etc after tooling, and let dry overnight. Apply Feibing's leather care, and let dry overnight again. I've used Feibing's leather sheen, resolene, tan-kote, and occasionally neutral shoe polish as finishes. Leather shene and neutral shoe polish seem to be my favorites. I've seen some leather that didn't dye evenly. I resorted to a wipe with 91% alcohol after the usual above treatment to get an even dye job.

Very nice!

To line or not is largely a matter of personal preference. I've done both. Lining does increase the complexity. I'd recommend making unlined first. There are several tutorials on You Tube for making both holsters and patterns. Watch a few of those before cutting any leather - you will learn much. Put "making a leather holster" into your search engine. I've found that wet molding and forming by hand (I don't own a vacuum machine) to work well for me.

I use an airbrush, and thin Resolene 50/50 with water. Feibing's Leather sheen (get it at Hobby Lobby in a 4 oz bottle) has a bit less gloss. I air brush it straight. Use a light coat and let it at least partially dry before adding another coat. This avoids the issue with the finish dissolving the antiquing.

very nice. What color/brand dye?

Tiger thread. Get from Rocky Mountain leather and don't look back.

We have to have a sticker on the ATV, but they don't qualify for a plate - would have to be highway legal. ATVs don't qualify in Colorado.

We can have ammo in the magazine, but the loaded magazine must be removed from the gun if on an ATV or UTV. I was checked for that again this year. It has become a lucrative item for Game wardens and US Forest service from out-of-state hunters. Showing the rationale for laws, if you are in a vehicle that has a highway license plate, only the chamber must be empty.

beautiful work.

Here in Colorado, we have to have our guns in a case or scabbard while on an ATV/UTV. I use the cartridge loops so I don't have to dig around in a pocket for them when I stop and remove the gun from the scabbard. Otherwise, I agree - cartridge loops are a quick way to lose (expensive) ammo.

Have made several for my own rifles. All have cartridge loops. I mainly use a decorative border and some stamps like deer heads, etc. Did one with basket weave on a large magnum, that one tends to be a bit tough on the cheek. With cartridge loops, decorative carving would be on the inside - the shooter can see it and appreciate it that way. Just a thought.

Looks great! Glad the French Cleats worked for you. Great job with the detail of your project. Thank you for all the work you spent sharing it with us.

Ever try a French cleat for hanging something heavy? Love the sword idea.

Both colors can be orangey. Diluting 50-50with 91% Isopropyl alcohol can help. Also using antiquing compound (Feibing's paste) can tone down the color. Key is to practice on scrap. I find Feibing's Pro Golden Brown to have a pleasant warm color.

Try neutral shoe polish.

Looking nice! From one old Marine to another, who also makes knives, shoots, fishes, etc. I am watching this project. My wife was asking the other day what I'm going to do with all my knives. I give some away, did one as a donation for a 4-H silent auction fundraiser last year, and mostly just look at the rest. Your project may have given me something to do . . .

I make a few knives as well, also buying the blades. Gives me something to make a sheath for. My scales are from wood - ambrosia maple, curly maple, walnut, sassafrass, cherry, etc. From one Marine to another, bravo zulu.

very nice!

Wow.

stunning piece of work. Your step by step pics are greatly appreciated.

very nice work.

very nice! Do you have a pic of the back of the sheath?

I use a piece of old T-shirt to apply and buff the antique (Feibing's paste). I work it into carving with an old toothbrush. Much less getting too much of the antiquing compound into the cuts that way, then buff off. Feibing's Pro Resist, applies with a very damp piece of T-Shirt fabric.