CdK

@Wbunge I used a hex bit from a gunsmith screwdriver set when I had a similar problem on a 1341. I did need to grind the bit to exactly fit the screw slot and used a small wrench to turn the bit while pushing firmly down on the bit to prevent slippage/damage.

@GerryR I will take some pics and send them to you in the morning and get a shipping quote once I figured the size & weight. It has been quite a number of years since I got it and got it working ok but cannot recall if the frame is cast iron or light alloy.

Very nice work! The satisfaction of being able to complete a project with new to you elements is priceless.

@GerryRI have a complete “working” patcher you are welcome to for the cost of shipping. PM me if interested.

Very nice. I am thankful that I have the tools and the ability to make, adapt or repair parts to support my passions. I have had people sneer at my small Harbor Freight lathe and mill but these tools have allowed me to quickly machine bits & pieces when needed. I do own some CNC machines but they are in another business location and I prefer to manually do quick & dirty work on manual machines as it is mentally soothing and satisfying.

Excellent work above. I have been using Lightburn as my design software of choice for some time now. The added camera to assist in capturing items to enable quick pattern designing. Camera also allows quick and accurate placement with the added benefit that I can monitor what the machine is doing. I use a vented enclosure with no windows so no danger of zapping the eyes by accidentally being exposed to the laser. I have had a number of diode lasers over the years and today the affordable higher powered modules are much more capable but the risks to eyes have increased also. My currently active machines are 400x400 and 850x830mm with 20W laser heads. The latter is a self built machine which allows me to cut out larger leather panels and templates. Cutting lining fabric is a useful feature as well. I don’t engrave leather often but I do make embossing & debossing pieces for custom name tagging and logos for pennies in material using cast acrylic. With an arbor press on cased vegtan these can produce enough items and generate enough to have paid for the lasers over the past year.

I get rip-stop nylon fabric from Joann's for lining purses, bags and wallets. Granted I am still relatively new to bag making but so far this seems to work well. Bonus is that when cut out using a laser the melted edges look good. I have used Cordura as well but I can't recall where I bought that.

Unfortunately many of the US made brand name products are often of the same quality standards but at a much higher price point. The only part of shopping at Horrible Fright that I dislike is the lousy check out experience, it will take longer to check out than the time it takes to travel there and back home.

Tried that but the cat kept knocking it off, 3M double sided tape now anchors it in place. I do use coin magnets to hold other bits close at hand as I cut down the pedestal to minimums to save space in my work space. The maximum foot print of my machines are determined by the heavy metal base and nothing more, must be the Dutch DNA in me, use as little floor space as necessary.

@RockyAussie I am one of the people that benefits from the sharing of your modification. I used a square file and some elbow grease to create the additional grooves. The ball detent can be a booger to refit and sticky grease and a knife helped to reinstall it. When I was refitting the plastic ball onto the threaded rod it split and not having the same size ball I came up with what I had in my collection. An adapter was fabricated using a bolt that screwed into the ball. The added mass has the advantage that the lever will drop down if not held in place so no forgetting to return the lever after back stitching. The length of the adapter is sufficient in length and I tapped it deep enough to pinch the "C" shape when tightened down so it doubles as a locknut.

Nice work. I also use a laser for most of my cutting, be it to cut patterns or the leather itself.

Did you adjust thread tension after going to the thicker thread and needle? I had similar trouble and solved it by reducing the top and bottom tensioning.

Good information here. I would add that there appears to be no standardization of needle eye sizes and offset height between needle manufacturers and needle size alone is but a rough guide. The same for thread sizes, different manufacturers and thread types have differences in thickness etc. The old seamstress trick of using a short length of thread and watching how the needle slides on a 45 degree slope is a method I have adopted. The link above is useful. I happen to use Serafil and their 135 thread is thinner and stiffer than other brands I have. The differences are enough that different needle sizes and tensions are needed to get a good stitch in the same leather.

My solution to the disappointment after paying premium prices for CSO tools has been to learn to make my own as the products they sell are at best starter kits that need serious rework to properly function. If they were cheaper this would be an option but just no, I won't other buying any CSO tools ever again.

Very nice Keith. When I bought my 1341 & 441 recently they came with 1/4" aluminum bolt-on table tops. I painted these as the oxidation would transfer to the work pieces. High humidity here poses challenges and better options than naked aluminum are required. I have not yet used the top on the 441 yet but the other on the 1341 sees much use when I am sewing on purses and bags. Being a bolt-on it is a pita as I too often need to use the cylinder arm alone, with or without the swing-away edge binder. I have been pondering a better method as my edge binder bolts to the same holes as the table top. My machine does not have the mounting point on the front that your 2750 has but it is cast iron so careful planning and execution can create those. I like the idea of using a binder attachment that is mounted on the removable table top as this is cleaner than the swing-away I have. I sense some Fusion 360 and 3D printing in my future...

@Nadiri I added the WorkerB package from Sailrite to my machine to improve the speed control & torque and keep it portable. I have also added feed dogs and presser feet better suited for leather work along with a stitch length plate. Member kgg here sells a nice kit for this. My starting point was a cheap generic base machine that turned into something useable. In this journey I spent considerable time and a lot of money to get it to where it is now reliable and with utility. Not recommended for those not mechanically inclined and not prepared to learn how to tune this machine.

Simple and elegant tool & method described here, I’ll lodge this in my mind if I venture into doing this kind of project.

How you apply anything to the leather matters less that what you apply to leather. Consider dye, a range of tools and methods all produce dyed leather. The range is from dipping to spraying on with many methods, techniques and tools yielding the results we are after. If a tool or method works for you, use it. Outcome needed or desired will typically determine the material, method and tools used.

Some good advice by a number of members here so not much to add except the story of my latest adventure. Ramble warning ahead… i don’t do social media and don’t have need for it, YMMV. A piece of advice I got from a member here that has proven its truth is not to become fixated on what you like and what you would buy. Backstory, I recently made the plunge and invested a lot of money into equipment, materials and supplies without a full business plan except that I knew I did not know enough yet want to craft and sell leather goods. I did not borrow money or incur overhead that could get me into trouble. Worst case I sell off what I have and reset. As part of my adventure I have spent a lot of time and effort to master the equipment and learn techniques new to me. Tooling and holsters & belts I am very familiar with but this is not my current focus as I know that only accepting custom work will not generate sufficient work or revenue. I have witnessed too many people fail trying to do this but even though they are very skilled and produce excellent products or services, failed financially. Mastering, I use this term loosely, sewing machines with types of leather and designs I am not familiar with has been an interesting journey. Making small zippered bags has kept me occupied for the past few weeks. The early examples were atrocious in my opinion, but slowly I got over the hump and things started to come together. I no longer have any fears of zippers or making bags. Some of the bags were in colors and designs I would not choose for myself yet they all sold without leaving my house, no social media, no website and no friends & family sales. I had one long time holster customer visit me with a new to him pistol for a holster. His wife saw the bags hanging in my shop and she bought 2. She also took photos without me knowing. Within a few days all were sold. This type of pattern has repeated itself a few times already so not a fluke. Based from the feedback I got I learned a few things of importance, my color choices are different to what others prefer, qualities and properties of products that I would not have considered are important to know. This also proved my assertion that I must have ready stocks of items ready to go as impulse buying is alive and well and having these will lead to more sales as well as adding custom orders to my to-do list. Oh, have a selection of leathers on hand, this leads to more business. A catalog or photos won’t get the same traction, this is from customer feedback.

I have started to use my 801 quite a lot to skive waxy pull-up and soft chrome tan for bags. I don’t have a vacuum, just a plastic shoebox mounted under the opening to catch the trimming. Ditched the steel feed wheel as the stone is superior for these leathers. on rare occasions small pieces came up the feed wheel but had no damage to work pieces. I like the 3d printed pickup Wildharry made and I’m thinking to do something similar and use a small shop vac to remove the scraps. I don’t think adding any covers or such will be needed to make this work considering that most of the scraps just fall out already. I will post something once I have done this.

The glued shut screw caps can be prevented by lightly coating the threads with Vaseline or grease.

I stopped using it as it is not available locally and shipping it in was a mess due to leaking containers. I use Weldwood contact cement and results are good and the local hardware outlets have it available, There may be applications where Barge is preferred but I have not come across any limitations yet. I don’t do footwear so it may not be suitable for that use.

@AlZilla It's OK, it is only a flesh wound!

@TomETom, thank you for the kind offer. I don't need any for the foreseeable future as a quart will last me a very long time. I learned early on that the product must be used sparingly and with care or lousy outcomes will occur. I found that diluted 50/50 with water and sprayed on works well, dauber or brush, not so much. Gives me a satin finish with a lustre that preserves the natural texture & look of the underlying leather. This locks in the pro dye well and prevents smearing or rub-off. It does not totally seal the leather and NFO & balm will still be absorbed by the leather after application. I have seen too many completed projects that are shiny from heavy application and cracking and spalling off is often the outcome. Typical example where less is more. I have not witnessed discoloration of thread but then again I use bonded polyester or nylon for my sewing. I will remember your heads-up and will do a test first when I use different thread.

No, I shook the small jar to mix the solution and noticed it was off before I tried to spray it. Cleaning out a Paasche is not fun, ask me how I know...