CdK

Yes, many things going on at the same time. I remember my learning curve and finally getting the balance of needle, thread and settings right was very satisfactory. This all takes time to build experience and confidence, like when learning the guitar, don't rush and try to force things.

Yes, that is probably a tapered pin. Be sure to drive it out from the small end. I would measure the ends with a vernier to determine the small end. Support the shaft end well and drive it out with a drift punch. As others pointed out, proceed with caution as not done correctly could end poorly.

Looking a photo 1 again I see what appears to be a pin on the left, notice the circular dissimilar coloration on the shaft.

@friquant In the first picture there appears to be screw slots inside the holes, maybe screws in there?

@KloverI found the thread where this was discussed. This link should take you to the page where the hammers are shown:

@Rick JorgensonThat is a nice rig, well done!

Those are quite heavy duty, nice work!

@RockyAussie << @Klovermade some tests and posted images/video where he tested the tension for both the top and bottom thread when his machine was in balance. I seem to recall that the bottom was 1lb and the top 3lb. That being said, the thread path plays an important role as well. My preference, based on my experience, is to make sure that the top thread is wound 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 times around the tensioner on the left side of the machine. Thread slippage needs to be minimal here, wheel needs to rotate, or I get inconsistent stitch tension. There is no standard or correct one side fits all on these machines. Thread types and thickness change how you set up as well. Good luck with your new machine.

@Cumberland Highpower I had not yet considered the table surface yet but what you mention makes sense. I will probably use HDPE or such as I have that on hand and should be quite suitable I think. I'm thinking that the table top be circular so I can get into openings etc like when I do when doing tote bags with circular cut-outs for the handle. Similar to what some spindle sanders are but without oscillation and variable speed control using a foot pedal.

@Cumberland HighpowerDid not know about the Galli Burnishing wheels and did a search and came across this beast: https://youtu.be/-hXaNNV9wGo?si=_7ke0kzdVgUQQ9iv Fascinating what machines are out there. I'm actually considering making/building a horizontal burnisher for doing the edges on larger items such as bags and briefcases. I saw such machines being used in some of the videos that I saw on utube and my interest was piqued. I have 2x 750W servo motors that came off sewing machines on hand and considering using 1 of these as I could control the speed with a pedal. Thoughts? @LomaeArts I like your thought process, many ways to accomplish what you are going for.

Exactly, do what method is appropriate for the task at hand and do it correctly else it is a failure.

Same difference, I remember my late maternal grandfather, a blacksmith, rant on about the inferior electrical arc welding replacing hot rivets in rail car manufacture and that they were "weak". I dared point out to him that the liberty ships were welded together, once... That being said, I have seen many ugly leather pieces with large holes punched and overly thick and garishly colored threads used. These makers also tend to be vocal about how inferior machine stitching is. YMMV

Use your laser and mark the flesh side of the leather, easy peasy, no need for a template.

I use Lightburn extensively, not only to drive my lasers but as my premier pattern design tool. I don't use or recommend any Adobe tools. For CNC milling and 3D printing Fusion is my product of choice.

A basic laser can be relatively inexpensive but it is but a subset of what is required, IMHO. I use different lasers for various tasks in my workshop but I rarely burn images or text directly into leather for decoration as it degrades it too much for the items I make. YMMV. That being said, I do use a large diode laser extensively to cut card stock templates/jigs and marking the flesh side of leather for cutting etc. Marking the leather this way saves a lot of time as I don't need to scribe or trace the patterns onto the leather. The charring of laser cut leather can be a pita and cleaning it up takes longer than just using a knife or such. I strongly recommend having your laser in an enclosure to allow good fume extraction and prevent possible eye damage from laser light.

Nice setup. I use a DA Paasche for airbrush work with dyes and I have found that using denatured alky instead of isopropyl alky for dilution gave me better penetration and finish on vegtan. The main reason for using an airbrush is gradient coloring/shading and the sunburst finish on small items is striking. I'm unsure how this will work on shoes or other previously treated leather. Similar to you I apply a single coat of NFO minimum of 24hrs to vegtan before applying Fiebings Pro Dye cut to about 50/50 with alky. Absorption and even spread is quite good. As tests I did sectional cuts of 8~10oz HO and found I got better dye penetration on NFO treated than without. Having spraying chamber or doing this outdoors and using a good respirator is important.

Howdy, in my perpetual search for new and different fabrics for bag liners I found a reasonable source for affordable linings at Fabric Wholesale Direct. For a number of my bags I use the following lining: https://fabricwholesaledirect.com/products/ottertex-300d-solution-dyed-pu-waterproof-hexagon-grid-ripstop-fabric?variant=40771585638515 They have other rip stop fabrics as well that are quite nice as well. I have found that watching the people that do fabric sewing can teach a lot about bag making techniques and sources of fabrics.

Howdy, I was watching a makers video and saw him using an interesting clip to hold things together. I like that you can fasten it without disturbing the placement of the work pieces. Any ideas of what it is called and who may have these available in the US? This is a still from this video at the 17:28 time mark: https://youtu.be/o74-mQeuHoc?si=EppX-JVTkYWTm1QF

Most of my patterns I design today are done using Lightburn. I will also many times use my laser to directly mark the leather on the flesh side for cut lines etc. Reference patterns and layup jigs are cut from card stock by laser. I use Fusion a lot for my CNC mills & 3D printers but I found that Lightburn was quicker and more efficient for my leather work flow. Adobe software I will no longer use or recommend.

@Wbunge I used a hex bit from a gunsmith screwdriver set when I had a similar problem on a 1341. I did need to grind the bit to exactly fit the screw slot and used a small wrench to turn the bit while pushing firmly down on the bit to prevent slippage/damage.

@GerryR I will take some pics and send them to you in the morning and get a shipping quote once I figured the size & weight. It has been quite a number of years since I got it and got it working ok but cannot recall if the frame is cast iron or light alloy.

Very nice work! The satisfaction of being able to complete a project with new to you elements is priceless.

@GerryRI have a complete “working” patcher you are welcome to for the cost of shipping. PM me if interested.

Very nice. I am thankful that I have the tools and the ability to make, adapt or repair parts to support my passions. I have had people sneer at my small Harbor Freight lathe and mill but these tools have allowed me to quickly machine bits & pieces when needed. I do own some CNC machines but they are in another business location and I prefer to manually do quick & dirty work on manual machines as it is mentally soothing and satisfying.

Excellent work above. I have been using Lightburn as my design software of choice for some time now. The added camera to assist in capturing items to enable quick pattern designing. Camera also allows quick and accurate placement with the added benefit that I can monitor what the machine is doing. I use a vented enclosure with no windows so no danger of zapping the eyes by accidentally being exposed to the laser. I have had a number of diode lasers over the years and today the affordable higher powered modules are much more capable but the risks to eyes have increased also. My currently active machines are 400x400 and 850x830mm with 20W laser heads. The latter is a self built machine which allows me to cut out larger leather panels and templates. Cutting lining fabric is a useful feature as well. I don’t engrave leather often but I do make embossing & debossing pieces for custom name tagging and logos for pennies in material using cast acrylic. With an arbor press on cased vegtan these can produce enough items and generate enough to have paid for the lasers over the past year.