AlZilla

I wouldn't abandon it. Hit it with the saddle tan and I bet you'll never see it. Try it on a piece of scrap.

I'm going to suggest you find some other leather that you don't care about to test on. To pile on Mulesaw's comment, I recently talked to a taxidermist friend about old hides. He says tanned hides can certainly dry out to where they're just not salvageable. I'll follow along to see how you make out.

Assuming that you started at the top in your picture and things deteriorated after you turned the corner, how did it look when you got back to 3 layers? Funny how it looks fine until you turn the corner headed down and then the tension looks unbalanced and gets progressively worse.

This question got me poking around the net (as you no doubt did) and I came across a page recommending "one of Aileen’s tacky craft glues" to reglue the leather down. No clue what it is, but it may bear investigation. Here's the page, in all it's splendor: https://throughavintagelens.com/2010/04/restoring-vintage-cameras-iii-techniques/ I was really expecting to find that recovering the cameras would be the preferred method, but apparently not. I can understand wanting originality as a collector but if a suitable leather could be found, I don't think replacing it would be too hard. EDIT: And here's a PDF from Kodak that says mild soap and then white glue to reattach the leather. restoration_inst.pdf

So, here's a thread that should get you on the right trail. There's even a link for a close-enough manual:

I've never bought sheepskin from these guys, but I've bought a bunch of other stuff and never been disappointed. https://www.glacierwear.com/buckskin-leather-hides-deer-buckskin/shearling-sheepskin-leather.html

Got it - rule steel. I'll read up on it and make it a winter project. I have a small hydraulic press. Thanks! EDIT: It looks like they're bending the stuff with nothing more than a push clamp. I can fabricate something that'll do simple curves and corners. Thanks for the push!

For me, a 441 clone set up with 277 and a 111W set up with 138 give me plenty of range. And a host of domestic machines. Just what works for me.

In my fledgling dyeing, I've found that wetting the leather down first really evens out the dye job. Dauber, dipping, whatever way I do it, it just works better wet. EDIT: Though I have to admit, I like the distressed look of those straps. Put some kind of a cowboy theme on them, slick the edges and give'em a shiny finish. They'll look like a million bucks.

Yes, early on some of the videos I saw featured a drum or belt sander and I grabbed right on to that idea. So, if the stitch line wanders from the edge a bit - move the edge!

That right there is one of my big concerns. I like your review of equipment. Those weren't the brands that had been on my reading list. I might well come back and pick your brain when I start edging in that direction again.

Another avenue of adventure. For some reason, I thought it was more akin to actual metalworking. Is there a particular gauge, thickness or however they're measured you recommend to do the type of work you show in the picture? Thanks for the tip off.

I'm not sure how you'd reduce it down, but if you're thinking to simmer it in order to evaporate the alcohol, be warned that the alcohol vapors are dangerously flammable and heavier than air. In other words, don't do it on a gas stove. Though I hear tell there's some kind of fancy cooker gadget that'll do the job.

I know that the die material can be purchased in lengths. Are you saying that it's easily formed around, say, a wooden cutout?

Yeah, a 3d printer is on my radar. Kind of confusing to research online only, but I'll get there.

Had it in my hand today. "Leather oils, silicone and lanolin compounded for leather items".

It does achieve a nice look, doesn't it?

I'm surprised you find edge staining a chore. All I ever do, if anything, is a quick swipe with a dauber. About half the time I'm happy with just a slicked edge. Mine turn somewhere close to a tan/brown color that contrasts nicely with Saddle Tan or Brown, which are my usual go-to dyes. Thanks for playing, guys. Interesting thoughts on different machines.

Yep, I asked an incomplete question. Glad I tweaked it! Some interesting answers and I knew someone was going to like a laser, @Chakotay! @TomE, a burnisher is definitely on my mind after making a half dozen 3 to 5 foot straps. That's what got me wondering what else would be most helpful. A clicker press (especially with supplies (the dies)) being thrown in, @DieselTech would be cool but I don't make multiples of the same thing to justify buying or making dies. I think the cost of the dies is what keeps the clicker off my radar. @purplefox66, I was browsing splitters today and think something in a smallish range may soon have shop space with me.

The MSDS for NFO Compound only says it's 60 to 100% Mineral Oil. SDS Neatsfoot Cmpd 10102016.pdf

This is kind of where I'd be - or a bell skiver, maybe. I'd need to research and think.

If you're still here, I should have asked: If money and space were no object, what machine, besides a sewing machine, would be your next most useful machine? I should have seen the sewing machine being the #1 answer.

Well, but maybe a person wanted to hand sew. Their dream machine would be ... I wonder.

Well, I was thinking of just any machine in general. Skiver, clicker press, laser to who knows. I've been prepping straps the last couple of days, edge slicking, getting everything square and centered, punching endless holes and thinking about all the machines and tools I don't have I do have a 441 clone and a few other bigger sewing machines.

So, I'm curious ... What if you had only hand tools for your leatherwork and you could choose 1 free machine? Money is no object, space is no object and supplies for your new fantasy machine are no object. What would you choose? (I'm not in this position and this is not an offer! )