MarshalWill

There's a twelve step program for holsters. Step 12 is your twelfth holster. Then you start over.

I hand stitch everything. That said, maybe the tension is set right but the leather thickness/density is slightly inconsistent.

Here's a holster I made out of belly leather to test a pattern. Notice the stitching along the lower curve did the same thing yours did. I would never use that quality leather for anything other than a test piece.

For a first one, you nailed it. The leather bunched up along the part where the stitching isn't perfect. The issue doesn't look so much like your skill at stitching as it does possibly indicate a soft part of the leather, like you would find closer to the belly of the hide. Belly leather seldom stitches nicely. I burnish all the edges to give a nice finished look. A soft part in the leather won't burnish well, either. I always make holsters from the better part of a hide for this reason. Keep making them, you are doing very good work.

Good inspiration. LOL, all putty knives should look so good. Good suggestion to experiment with pieces for heat treating. I've found that in a lot of cases old saw blades are made of better steel than new ones. Good inspiration. LOL, all putty knives should look so good. Good suggestion to experiment with pieces for heat treating. I've found that in a lot of cases old saw blades are made of better steel than new ones. Good inspiration. LOL, all putty knives should look so good. Good suggestion to experiment with pieces for heat treating. I've found that in a lot of cases old saw blades are made of better steel than new ones. Good inspiration. LOL, all putty knives should look so good. Good suggestion to experiment with pieces for heat treating. I've found that in a lot of cases old saw blades are made of better steel than new ones. Oops. Sorry about the multiple taps. But then, it does hammer the message home.

What color do you heat them to before quenching?

I'm a firm believer of the saw blade option. If you're careful to not heat the cutting edge when you shape it, some saw blades have enough temper to hold a good edge without heat treating.

Well, there you go. It now has an official purpose.

We'll just call it a lightening hole, then.

By all means. It works great. The saw blade center hole didn't do much for it, though, unless you want to hang it up on a hook.

I've made all these from saw blades. I use the one on the right for skiving more than the rest although the two on the left work good, too, depending on the type of skiving I need to do. You can find good Japanese made knives of similar designs on ebay or Amazon that hold an edge well.

Outstanding! That really brought out the details. Good work.

Dying the background would certainly do the trick. It wouldn't even have to be very contrasting, either.

Very well done. Looks realistic, which takes a good eye and touch with the tools. If you want to subdue the background stamping, could you go over it lightly with a modeling spoon?

Good information. I generally follow Bruce's rule(s) depending on other variables, of course. rktaylor, my all favorite border stamp is the same Hackbarth one you show on the left. I have a few others but that one I use more than others.

I use Jeweler's files along with what ever else will give the desired result. Here's a thread on how I made one stamp.

Your laser-made stamp looks to be good. Yes, if you want the impression to stand out more antiquing would certainly do the trick. For comparison, here's a stamp I had professionally made and the impression it makes. This one is 1-1/4" long. You may be onto a good sideline, as well.

You do have a good product idea there. I particularly like the 'hotel' designs. Especially the HOTEL CALIFORNIA one. Those should really catch some interest. I also like traditional carving and stamping but the laser does give a texture not possible otherwise. I hope they work out well for you.

Great. Thanks.

That looks like a mighty fine knife. The shape is much like one I have that works good except that it doesn't hold an edge well. Does he have a website or phone number for those who don't have a FB account?

Mine have curved blades but that doesn't mean those are best. They're just what I have and am used to. The one with the hole in it is much like using a round knife with the points cut off. I like the control I get with it. I have used straight blades, too and they work fine but my preference is a curved one. The angled one is good for running along an edge and the other is good for other thinning tasks like the end of a strap or belt. I suspect that there isn't any best one, just what you get used to and like using. If I didn't have a good knife for the job, I'd try one of the Osborn leather & skiving knives or one like them. I think the Japanese make some pretty good knives for the money. The main thing is to keep it sharp so there's no drag when you cut with it. Ebay would be a good place to look for used ones. Amazon lists a bunch of inexpensive imported ones but there's no guarantee those will be good enough steel to properly hold an edge.

Lately I've started using magnets to hold my most used knives. Quick access and in a box, dust free. This box is what I made years ago when it would hold most of what I needed. Not so any more but I still keep the box for some things.

That's almost too simple. Thanks.