MarshalWill

Barge doesn't work the way it used to. None of the formulas I've tried compare to the original formulation. I have changed to Master Cement and it works like the original Barge one did.

I have the same groover you showed. It's easy to use and does the job well. My only objection is that the smallest groove is bigger than I sometimes want so I have to resort to an old one I have on hand that I don't like as much but does the job.

I made my first stitching awl by grinding down a screwdriver shaft. I keep it around because it reminds me of how I started out. I now get Vergez-Blanchard awls when I need a new one. This is some of the best advice you can get.

In the saddle shop we just cut on plywood screwed to the workbench. For punching holes, end grain blocks much like @fredk showed in his post

When I saw that part of the video, it changed my thinking on X-acto knives. His method works great.

2:45-3:34 shows a great use for an X-acto knife. I use his method more than any other for cutting complex shapes from bridle leather. A good holster making video.

That's a mighty nice bag. The extra pockets look useful. Very nice work.

That's a mighty fine holster. I can't say I've seen a flap pancake style before. Interesting. Nice work throughout. Thumbs-up.

Outstanding job on those upgrades. They're outstanding machines, now.

The sheath is nice looking. I am undecided on the handle being partially enveloped by the leather. If it prevents a good grip on the knife, next time make it without, otherwise it's a design preference. The rivet at the end of the stitching is also preference although as already mentioned, it can dull the blade. If you do manage to cut the stitching without a rivet, it can always be re-stitched. Also, I like the copper rivets that are visible from the front put in the other way (burr side out) for aesthetics (my preference, not right or wrong). When I install rivets that will go against a knife or pistol, I recess the head slightly by hand with a brad point drill bit so there's no chance of them dulling/scratching the knife/pistol. When I set those recessed rivets, I wet the leather at the rivet so it pulls down into the leather. That meander border stamp takes some care to get right. Yours is nice and even. Great job on that. All around, your sheath is a fine one. Good work.

I also like polished ball peen hammers. For copper rivets, however, I use the other end of a 2 oz one. It's the way I was taught to rivet as a kid and it does the trick well.

We knew what you meant. I must admit, though, I had fun visualizing it being used in a church service. It's good to leave as much original character as possible in old wood. It takes on a beautiful luster.

Beautiful. It's always good to see old tools made good again. I use my grandfather's cobbler's hammer and it was a pitted mess when I got it. I had to take off a lot of metal to clean it up. You can still see one pit at the top that was really deep and i didn't want to take off enough to get rid of that one.

Looking really good, LD. It can get addicting.

It sounds like a good excuse reason to me.

Close to the edge where it's easy to nick the bench so don't do it on a kitchen table. LOL

Before I cut with one, I punch tight inside curves with hole punches before cutting the piece. Oh, yeah, I also don't have any carpet so I just cut off the edge of the bench.

The only thing I use an X-Acto knife for is to cut out pieces. Other than that, they really don't have much use in leather working, at least for me. Here's a video showing a guy using one much like I do. This technique really makes cutting complex pieces easy. For cutting pieces out, watch from 2:49 to 3:33.

Looks mighty usable. Nice job.

Yeah, I strop them and whatnot but when they get down some, I stick a new one in.

True, one can't have too many knives. I have a good selection of them that I've made myself. I do draw the line at making an X-Acto knife, though.

If it works anything like the leather knife I made, you can run a long straight cut or a curve with ease. The advantage being it looks like you could cut quite a bit tighter inside curve. And yes, sharpening should be a breeze. It's a great idea, may have to think about making one similar to it.

I like this one a lot! There would be a lot of different applications for it. I wonder how it would feel with the handle set a little farther onto it. Of course my experience is with stubby handled knives for push cutting. Good job, Chuck.

I have one suggestion for you to consider. If the clamp part can rotate on the cross base, it will allow you to hold the work at any angle you find easiest.

Those are fine holsters. Very nice!