MarshalWill

Thanks. I wanted to show how easy they are to make. The nice thing is you can make them any size and with many variations.

That's a good design. Simple, and that makes it functional. Nothing is better than a thin wallet.

Thank you both. If you make any new stamps, post a photo for us to enjoy.

I know about having room for new toys tools. I'd love one of my own but...

Thank you. It's one of my favorites, now.

Thanks. LOL, remember that I mentioned that you could re-do the detail if it wasn't coming out to your liking? After I finished it I realized it was too close to another BW I had made. So I reshaped the end a little and made a different BW out of it. Whatever it takes to get a good result, eh?

Over the years I've made many of my own tools. A while back on another forum I moderate, I posted on how I made a basket weave stamp. I ran across that thread and decided to share the process here. This is applicable to making just about any decorative stamp. Nothing is set in stone but this is what I did with this one. All these photos make it look like I did a lot, but the whole thing from bolt to stamp was only about two hours, and that included the time to set up and take the photos. Let me say that if I can buy a good quality stamp, I will do so. I only do this when I can't find what I want from one of the stamp makers. I started with a stainless bolt. Shape the end. If you don't have power tools, files will do just fine. When you have the shape you want, add the details. I use the drill chuck as a handle for the Swiss files. As you file the details, keep checking until it looks right. If you don't like the way it's looking, file it flat and start again with the detail work. Cut to the length you like and add texturing. I used a thread file to roughen the shank. Sandpaper works, too. You can also just make a bunch of dimples with a drill or center punch. I like the end a little tapered. Done. I hope this helps and inspires some of you to get going on some of your own.

Looks good. Could you make a maker's stamp out of Delrin with that laser? Then there would be no clean up needed on your leather.

That's some mighty fine work, Ornyal. Looking very good.

Besides all the great advice you've already received, I would like to add one thing. An edge bevel is basically a knife. I strop my knives every time I use them. With this in mind, I also strop my edge bevels every time I use them. For that, I use a piece of leather with stropping compound on the beveled edge, like TomE mentioned he does. They cut beautifully every time. Because I keep them sharp, I never need to use sandpaper on them until they're really worn and need reshaping. You should be able to sharpen your cheapo Chinese one to work fine but it might not hold an edge like a good quality one. And yes, you need a smaller one if you can't hold it at the proper angle to do the work. Invest in a small one of good quality for your thin leather. Eventually replace them all with top quality ones and your work will reflect the difference.

Looks good! The died keeper goes good with the antiqued tooling. Nice work.

I use a 10 oz poly mallet for small holes and a 28 oz one for large holes. Your intended 32 oz one sounds good. I don't use stitching chisels so can't advise on that.

Very nice! Congratulations.

Those are good molds. Thanks. Hopefully you can find some fire hose. The stuff is made flattened so it can be rolled up. The edges work well on tight inside curves.

Those look good. Molded leather is a classy and these are all about that. To answer your question about burnishing, I'd use a piece of canvas and burnish the edges with gum tragacanth. I'd suggest a piece of old cotton fire hose but that stuff is scarce these days. It's great if you can find a piece, though. What does your mold look like?

This is great advice. kgg must have been watching me years ago. I converted a treadle machine to electric one time. I spent a lot of time rounding up parts, making a table, adding a slip clutch and a dryer motor. It was great for everything but my intended purpose, which was to stitch holsters and such. The stitch length was way too short on the longest setting and with the 1/2 hp motor, if anything didn't line up, the needle would dangerously disintegrate into shards. It gathered dust in a corner and eventually I got rid of it, having learned a good lesson. All these years later, I still don't have a machine for my intended purpose but do intend to get one later this year.

I know several who use canvas to burnish their leather edges. It works great as long as you get the right amount of moisture and friction, as TomE mentioned. I personally use a piece of cotton fire hose but that stuff is a little scarce these days. If I didn't have that, I'd use canvas myself.

Well, that's certainly an interesting item. I haven't seen one before. But, I'm not in the duck crowd, either. Looking forward to seeing the final finished ones.

I don't see a logo on them anywhere. Will that get imprinted afterwards?

Those look good. Are they designed to hold a box of shells? No edge beveling, no dying, just cut out and assemble. Nice design idea.

Same here. Quite often 'less is more'.

Cut in half would be perfect. I'll stuff 'em in the chop saw, then.

Love those wrist pins! Great idea. I've been using a cutting block with a small anvil bolted to it. A friend of mine is in charge of the county maintenance department. I may have to hit him up for a couple of those.

Looks good! I like the simple border design. It doesn't overpower the shape of the pieces.

That's the stuff. Plain old printer paper. If there's a shiny side, use that. 1860 Army. The holster is a copy of one of Hickock's. To be really correct, it should be an 1851 Navy. It would be the same fit, though.