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Everything posted by SUP
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Yes. That is when it hits home the most, when we do something and the person we do it for is suddenly not around. The formalities are painful, especially when you see the name on all those documents. I'm sorry. This is a really difficult time for you.
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Oh. So 2 differently tanned leathers have the same generic name of 'oil tanned'. Hmm.
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@fredk, oil-tanned leather is sold as a sub-section of chrome-tanned leather, at least where I buy it from, Springfield leather. In the description too, the type of tannage is given as 'Chrome'. From what I have read, 'oil-tanned leather is not really tanned in oil. It is finished with some sort of oiling, post chrome-tanning. Since I got this from a seller as well as other articles online, I thought it is possibly true.
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I am so sorry for your loss. Consider it a blessing for both of you, that you were with her until the last. The last thing she knew was that her son with her. Our prayers are with you. I lost my mother in 2021. I could not be with her as she is not in the country and I could not travel due to health reasons. She was ailing - she never really recovered from losing my father in 2008. I spoke to her 10 minutes before she passed away suddenly. The only consolation for me is that her last words to me were 'I love you very, very much" and I replied ' I love you too". Every day that we were apart for over 35 years, I called her twice daily so that when she awoke in the morning and then went to bed at night, she knew I loved her and that I was fine. I still sometimes reach for the phone to call her - habit of half-a-life time. One never really gets over losing parents but it does get a little easier. It might take while but that day will come when you can remember her with love and affection without the deep associated pain.
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@bladegrinder the steel, I think, is some form of high carbon Steel. The knife is an Henckel, an old one. It is very humid here, in Georgia, too. But my other knives kept in veg-tanned leather sheaths are fine. Like all my knives I coated this one in mineral oil as well. @fredk, I have not tried chrome-tanned leather on any other knives, not even the newer stainless steel ones from Osbourne. Maybe I will switch sheaths with a new knife and check tomorrow. That will at least tell me if it is the metal of the knife or the leather that causes the problem.
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All my knife sheaths are veg-tanned leather except one. A coupe of weeks ago, I read several articles which declared that chrome-tanned leather did not damage knives; knife makers who said they have used chrome-tanned leather for sheaths for ages with no damage to the knives. More fool me, I thought to give it a try. I used oil-tanned leather on one sheath - knife had a thin layer of rust within a couple of days. Cleaned it up and making a sheath with veg-tanned leather now. it is possible the knife is old and that makes a difference. No idea but I am not risking it again.
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@Klara. Probably. I have seen some knives with this shape though. I spend a lot of time online looking at tools, techniques, leathers, etc. and have come across it a couple of times. Whether they have all been sharpened badly or this shape is also of use, is the question.
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@TomE That is a great idea! Wish I had the space for that. @Klara I just put up a magnetic strip for my knives last weekend and it is very convenient. Stuck on a couple of leather cutting scissors as well.
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@Klara, Very true. I just wondered because I saw this and the shape is a little unusual. Not seen many Blanchard knives around . The only ones I have seen are on eBay and they are much more expensive. This seller has a good reputation and had several knives on sale, different brands, all at reasonable rates - so naturally all sold. Did not plan to buy any of them, so no loss. Incidentally, after an extensive internet search, I have seen other old Blanchard knives with 'A Paris' on it. I have heard that Blanchard is a very old and respected brand and the older knives are supposed to be good while the new ones, not so much.
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In the photographs I have seen when I searched online, it is always "PARIS' while here it is 'A PARIS' That is one of the reasons why I wondered. Also, it is available for the price of 29 Euros, which is rather low for an old Blanchard, I thought, but I might be wrong.
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Is this an authentic Blanchard? I don't know how to determine if it is authentic or a fake, so I thought I would ask here.
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I have an old snakeskin bag. I have applied an exotic leather conditioner on it. Is that sufficient to care for it? It is shiny and soft now but I was wondering if some other protectant would be needed. I plan to continue to use it quite often. I have looked up the threads on snakeskins here but did not find anything about protection after conditioning. I just looked it up and it appears the skin is Burmese python.
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I saw a video of an East Asian woman making a leather handbag. She applied diluted Toconole with a brush on the flesh side and went over it with a glass burnisher. She did this in small areas to prevent too much liquid from being absorbed. Then she allowed it to dry. I used it on the inside of a leather bag and it worked for me. It smooths down the flesh side. I could not find the link, else I would have attached it here..
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The people here are experienced leather craftsmen and they generously share their knowledge from their own experiences. It is up to each person asking advise to use what works best for them, or not.
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@dikman, @bruce johnson, @Wepster Thank you for all the information. From my experience last evening, I must say a small old, unbranded knife that was thrown in with some other things is my sharpest. it is easiest to sharpen and keeps sharp, is light and very comfortable to hold! Can't be too hard, as it is easy to sharpen, more like an old C S Osbourne. I plan to follow the same care as for the old, branded ones.
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@fredkWill try that technique for my next project. Thank you.
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@fredk tapping on the stitches sounds simple but whenever I do it, it looks smashed, even with a light rubber mallet. I will need to be even lighter. Too impatient, I think. My scissor sheath last night has stitches looking a little the worse for wear because of that. Your coin wallet pattern is really nice - simple and elegant. It is a key chain too, isn't it? I make one but not a key chain. That makes it even more useful.
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@Tugadude yes that is absolutely true. Not growing up here, had no idea of their uses in that way.
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@Tugadude Yes I see. Everything ready and, like I mentioned to @fredk I feel its like cheating when everything is cut and punched and ready to sew. Finally, nothing quire like a pattern, piece of leather, some cutting tools and chisels to work with.
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@fredk I really put my foot in my mouth, didn't I? I meant when I said that the holes are hidden, about the lovely work on this site, from experienced leathercraftsmen who know how to select the correct thread and of course the holes are hidden. Something a newbie aspires for. You have explained it here so clearly. Should have put it all into words but then I thought, too long, so did not. And I agree about ready-made kits. Have never tried them though - it feels like cheating when everything is provided ready cut and punched. I see that the holes remain.
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I agree Some of the patterns we get online are the same, but I use a diamond chisel instead of the punch recommended.
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I was not very clear in my earlier post and if I mislead in any way, I apologize. I agree. Slanted holes work the best. They look beautiful from both sides and the narrow cut keeps the thread more snugly than diamond cuts, although the leather does close around the thread in the latter as well. The pre-cut round holes, the worst. I learnt subsequently that with round holes, slanted stitches are possible with casting - as you @Tugadudesaid the Nigel Armitage video. I have seen all the tutorials here, thank you to all the experienced people here who have guided so well about that - and I have learnt one thing. It is the technique which finally matters. Technique of saddle-stitching. Once experienced, as I see with all the experienced leatherworkers here, the type of holes do not matter AS much. They know the way to stitch, cast or not and so on and make beautiful items That is what I meant when I said the type of holes do not matter - not to disparage but to say that there are ways to get around whatever the shape and direction of the shape of the holes, once saddle-stitching is understood - should have explained that way. About Awls. I thought sharpening them was a difficult matter too, until I read a thread here which explained exactly how to do it. Was it you who explained @Tugadudeor someone else? I'm sorry I do not remember but It was so clearly explained, as you have done here too. And finally about the price. In many threads, newbies are advised by some, not all, to buy either 'the best money can buy' or ' the best affordable' or specific expensive brands. That is good advise but sometimes, it is a bit premature. This was mainly my point in the earlier post. At the start, I too was obsessed with chisels which is why I commented. I wanted 'good' french chisels and as is my habit, explored brands and was undecided, until Uttam praised my work once and, looking at it with new eyes, I realized I was getting the results I wanted with my inexpensive, diamond chisels, easily at that. That is why I spoke up about not needing expensive chisels. One thing; when I said 'kit' I did not mean ready made kits of cut leather with a few tools, to just stitch together to make purses etc. I meant the leatherwork kit which only contains all the tools for leatherworking. If you enter the words' leatherworking kit' you find dozens on Amazon.
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As a newbie, for whom everything is still a learning experience I would like to put in a few words. However the holes are made, pricking irons and awls, diamond chisels, etc. they are finally hidden by the thread. So it matters not a whit whether the holes are slits, angled diamond shaped holes or tunnels, for all I know. As long as the stitching is good, the holes are completely hidden. Coming to how the holes are made; yes pricking irons and awls are the traditional way but now, there are diamond chisels available to make this easier. So no reason not to use them, especially for us newbies because learning saddle stitching faster means that we can get onto projects we can be proud of instead of feeling frustrated because we could not stitch well. As a newbie, I am relieved that we have diamond chisels; I tried and could not do the pricking iron and awl method - awful lines. Maybe I will learn one day but until then, diamond chisels work well. Coming to the brand to use. Yes the expensive ones would be wonderful to have but cheaper ones work well too. When newbies have so many things to buy, expensive chisels are not needed, in my opinion. I know because mine are cheap ones off Amazon and they work fine, not just adequate, fine. I use up to 6-7 oz leather and even through my newbie mistakes when I forgot a board and the tines went blunt, a little sharpening was all that was needed. So when I see newbies being advised to buy 'the best they can afford' or expensive brands, may I gently remind that with so much to buy, that is not necessary to start with or even later if not needed? When on a limited budget, it makes sense to choose where to economize. I was clueless when I bought an Amazon leathercraft kit but it was the best thing I did. I received everything I need, from a cutting mat to 2 other boards for pounding and for use under chisels, from snaps to rivets, to thread to knives, bevelers and I don't remember what else. All i needed to buy was a set of diamond chisels ($10 on Amazon) and I was set. So I got everything needed for basic leatherwork for about $100.00. Not the best brands, naturally but they all work fine. Since then, I have bought the same brand chisels, 3mm and 5mm. Inexpensive and effective. Will I buy Kevin Lee ones some day? Maybe. Maybe not. They are like designer handbags to me. Ordinary inexpensive bags carry my things as well, so why spend on designer ones? Not like shoes, where cheap ones pinch. So that is the difference. There are many inexpensive brands of chisels which are fine. Whether chisels, or pricking irons or awls. Maybe they should be considered as well. Being able to afford does not mean spending blindly, in my opinion. Just my two bits of what I learnt as a newbie. Hope I did not offend with anything I said here.
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@bruce johnsonThank you for that detailed guidance. When I received the Rose knife, I knew I was in for a lot of work. Last night, I sharpened another, unbranded knife.. It got sharp fast, within a short time. I do not have machines but I do go through the different grits or whatever they are called, on the water stones. On the unbranded knife, it took me about 15 minutes and it is very sharp now. Did twice the time on the Rose knife, remembering that in this site, people always said what you have confirmed, that Rose knives have some of the hardest metal and are difficult to get sharp. My knife just yawned and went back to sleep. Reading what you have explained above, I realize I am in for a long series of long sessions of sharpening. Since I do not have an electric grinder or a belt system, it will all be by hand. I will work on it, through the weeks and months. I will reach there one day. I will check with the magnification; I did it once to check for damage and it is without cracks as of now. I will continue to check, at each sharpening session. The knife already has a wide bevel. it is not 1 inch but it is a small knife. So I think a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch should do? I will remember to keep the bevel that wide before I sharpen the edge. I have a set of rouges, including the black one. Not needed them for the other knives but will break them out for the Rose. I will apply them onto a set of strops. Old leather belts on Cardboard - keep them ready for whenever I need it. As usual, a printout of all these details and information so that I remember at the right time. And I can understand the pleasure of finding good knives unexpectedly. Last week, at a flea market, I found an old Bissonnette beveler, for a dollar. Sharpened it, following Stohlman's instructions in his book. A pleasure to use now. Somehow, I find myself using such finds more than I use new instruments. Found a Henckel round knife yesterday as well. The seller did not have much idea of the value, but it looks clean and with very little tarnish or rust. Well cared for. Will follow same instructions for sharpening that one too. Stopping looking at knives now though, else I spend more time making sheaths and sharpening knives than in doing other leatherwork!
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Okay. Thank you.