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Showing results for tags 'antique'.
Found 61 results
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Hello! I recently came across the work of La Geuse on DeviantArt and love her "gradient" esque finishes where the dye is darker on the edges. I used to achieve this affect on cosplay pieces before I started working with leather by applying a dark wash and wiping away, but I want to know how to get this finish using leather dye. I make armored corsets and a lot of heavy armor for SCA and would love to achieve a similar finish on my work. My confusion comes from if her finish is achieved by airbrushing on a darker color of dye on the edges (or thinning angelus paints to do this) OR if this is some form of antiquing. I am coming to leather from the cosplay world, and while my construction is pretty good I am looking to heavily improve my dyeing process. Thanks all! Pictures are not mine, all c redit to La Geuse on DeviantArt.
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So I did this recently for my Son for his birthday. I'm new to leather. I started about 4 or 5 months ago. This is my fourth leather project and I am in need of some serious critiques. I struggle most with dyeing and coloring to get the effect or results I want. Any pointers or constructive criticism is very welcomed. Thanks and Cheers, Leland
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Hello! I recently came across the work of La Geuse on DeviantArt and love her "gradient" esque finishes where the dye is darker on the edges. I used to achieve this affect on cosplay pieces before I started working with leather by applying a dark wash and wiping away, but I want to know how to get this finish using leather dye. I make armored corsets and a lot of heavy armor for SCA and would love to achieve a similar finish on my work. My confusion comes from if her finish is achieved by airbrushing on a darker color of dye on the edges (or thinning angelus paints to do this) OR if this is some form of antiquing. I am coming to leather from the cosplay world, and while my construction is pretty good I am looking to heavily improve my dyeing process. Thanks all! Pictures are not mine, all credit to La Geuse on DeviantArt.
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Hello everyone! I've searched through the forums for an answer to my issue, but couldn't find anything so here goes! If it has been answered elsewhere, my apologies for starting a new thread. I'm new here and am constantly trying to improve my skills and tooling/painting on my weightlifting belts. My most recent endeavor is trying to figure out how to make my white paint remain white after antiquing. I tool, dye, paint (angelus acrylic), then coat with 1 or 2 coats of angelus acrylic finisher. I use black antique mostly because it goes with anything, the more natural tones don't fit in with my work. Basically, as you can guess, the black antique doesn't come off clean enough, and leaves a nasty tone on the white. I use Eco flo gel antique. See attached, an idol of mine's great work - and how white his paint comes out after finishing! Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks so much!
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Hello folks ! Something weird is happening.. a while ago I was making a wallet, as the newbie I am with very little experience using other products than Sheen and dyes, I decided I wanted to use antique finish, medium brown (fiebing's that comes in the little plastic jar) and so I did and after noticing that it wasn't such a good idea I tried rubbing it off with water , and somehow that worked but not quite, it brought off most of the stains but it really took some in , to the point "of no return" with water at least, and so I got frustrated, abandoned the project because it was ruined and left it for a while. A little over week ago I found it again and decided I'd dye it black and I did , it was great , the part I didn't use the paste on took the dye well but that part that did , it's sort of dye proof , water proof , everything proof , I tried dyeing it once , I left it to dry for 36 hours , I tried to buff it to add some super sheene , and the black came off several parts returning some huge spots to their natural color pretty much , and I tried dyeing it around 2 more times , same result every time , later I thought I just needed some deglazing , I read on here I could use rubbing alcohol , I don't really have access to a shop at the moment and probably won't til a week from now so is there anything I can do to replace deglazing? First I tried neatsfoot oil , it took it (from what I saw) , the dye came right off , tried rubbing alcohol 3 times , when it dried the last time , I tried wetting it (I read on here that it can help absorb dye) but still still didn't work , but it made me notice that my item is pretty much waterproof, water stays over it like nothing, does not bother to absorb What can I do ? Thank y'all in advance, good luck to anyone who's got the storm thing coming at them -
Does anyone have a preference over paste vs liquid antique stain? Why?
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Hi! First of all - sorry for my english, i know it's bad So, today i saw a nice carved leather wallets, with freaking amazing dying technique. Now i can't sleep because i need to know how to get these colours. I think its not spirit dyes, seems like water based or acrylic used with some snain ot acrylic gel (i dont know), but, its so vintage, and lean, yes, its looks old, but clean. Do you have any ideas, or maybe you know this technique? Maybe you can give some advise of dye brand?..God, that's make me mad... -
Hi I'm trying to use antique gel but it doesn't seem to work. I've got a test piece I'm using. I stamped the leather with a few stamps, then I dyed with a water based dye and allowed to dry overnight. Now I follow the instructions on the eco-flo antique gel: Apply liberally, rub in, wipe off with a soft cloth. (I didn't resist because I didn't mind if colour overall colour changed) I know the gel is supposed to stay in the impressions, but when I wipe everything comes off. Tried again, applied, waited 1 minute, wiped off, and again it all wipes off. It's not a heavy tool impression, because it's a thin piece of leather and I didn't want to go through. Any thoughts?
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Hey all, I'm getting a bit confused in the dyes and antiques you can buy from Fiebings. I'm using the spirit based (regular) ones at the moment, since they have many more colors available for this one in my favourite webshop. Though they also sell the pro oil dye, what's you experience in their difference? And their Acrylic dyes, how are these different? does this compare to the Cova from Eco-flo? (So, more of a surface dye which gives this very bright 'unnatural' color as if you're using your leather as a canvas?) I'm also wondering about their antiques. My webshop sells two types of Fiebings antiques; Antique leather stain (Water-soluble antique finish on acrylic base) and Fiebing's antique finish. Is there anybody who an explain the difference in these? I'm using Eco-flo antique paste at the moment, and am generally quite happy with it. Does either one of Fiebings resemble this? Thanks in advance and sorry for all the noob questions. -
I bought an airbrush and wanted to try using it to spray on my finishes. The airbrush finishes great on dyed pieces, but when i try to use it on antiqued finishes, it causes the antique to pool together and make the project look permanently smudged and "dirty". I can't quite figure out what I'm doing to cause this as I have searched this forum and found that airbrushing an antiqued finish turns out quite nicely. Here are my steps: I tool my leather Let Dry Apply a coat of Tan Kote Let Dry Apply Sheridan Brown Antique paste made by Fiebing's. Let dry/set for a while. Buff Then apply another coat of Sheridan Brown Antique Paste made by Fiebing's Let dry/Set for a while (in the case of the picture, days) Buff Try the Spray finish with Eco Flo Professional Finish Clear Gloss It still turns out looking like this. it does the same for application with a brush. it causes it to look dirty and streak. Would love some pointers. Thank you.
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I just finished up a restoration project I've been working on for several months, rebuilding and repainting a Singer 96-10. I'm in the process of fine-tuning him at the moment, but before I call it good, I want to ask the community a question. For anyone that owns / has used a gear-driven 95 or 96 class, do you notice the whizzing of the gears during use? I didn't actually sew with this guy very much before dissasembly, so I can't recall if I could hear the gears back then. When I was assembling him, I couldn't get sound from the gears to completely disappear. I got it quiet, but when he's running at speed, there's a definite whizzing noise. The teeth on these gears are just straight, not helical or hypoid, so I don't expect the sound to be non-existant... but I'm surprised it's making as much noise as it is. If you don't notice the sound of the gears, there's a couple things I can think of checking: I haven't packed enough grease in the gear boxes they need to be aligned in a specific way, with the correct teeth mating at the right spot they simply haven't been adjusted to quite the right spot. Should anyone have something to say on the matter, I would appreciate it! The results of my work: During reassembly -
Trying to locate any information on this shotgun shell bandolier. My intention is to harvest the parts and make a new belt so I can put it back to use. I want to check first to see if there is any information out there on these types of belts and if there is any reason not to remake it into a serviceable piece of gear. It fits 12 gauge shells and has no makers mark or any indications as to who made or manufactured it. -
An old freind of mine found a beautiful antique elastic leather repair machine, and he really wants to get it back into operating condition. Problem is we have no idea what kind of machine this is. I cant find alot of information on the machine but will be having a better look at it tonight. I would like to know who manufactured this machine and if there is any availability on parts. Maybe model #, year, maker, anything to help with my search. Thanks
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I need replacement needles for some leather repairers we have at our MISSION. Our Volunteers use Champion (no model visible) Needles printed on side ICH 12 C, or ICH 12 O? Sizes are 2.25" long, .078" Round or metric equiv. of 5.715 cm 0.19812 cm Any help would be great, thanks! Brad E Walton II 217-418-3593 hotdj1@icloud.com
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First off, I apologize for any mistakes made in this post, I am a very young and inexperienced leather worker. I am making a simple wallet that has 4 pieces of leather total, doesn't fold, and only has 3 slots total. I have made more complicated for others, but for me, I like simple. I dyed the leather with antique, using no resist as I wanted the antique affect and the saddle tan colour. Do I need to put on another finish over the antique like super sheen to seal it in, or can I leave it as is? Most likely the wallet will get plenty of sweat on it, and go in and out of my jeans pocket regularly. If another overcoat to "seal" it is needed, is there anything that I can use that won't give it the super glossy, shiny finish that super sheen does? Here is a picture:
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I have scoured the forms for some time now and cant find the exact info I am looking for. I use antique often and am quite familiar with all the different wiping, resisting, painting techniques, but I still cant figure out how this look in the pic is achieved. The tooling looks to be heavily shadowed with black but the leather itself still looks completely natural like no die has ever touched it. Giving it a high contrast look. How is this done? Even if you dunked the whole piece in resist and then applied the dark/black antique to the tooling, the untooled part of the leather would still catch some of the antique in its natural nicks and dents. Was this piece just washed and scrubbed super well after the antique was applied?
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I recovered this old saddle from my great-aunt's shed. She told me that her father (my great-grandfather) used to ride this saddle whenever he went out for a date! I figured it must have been very nice in its day, so I wanted to fix it (any tips on fixing bent/cracked leather, please share! I'm currently using Leather New and probably some saddle oil, but advice about other chemicals/techniques that would be better would be most welcome). It was kept on a shelf in a shed that was poorly-protected against the Mississippi elements (well, it survived a tornado that took down a bunch of massive pines, so it must be sturdier than it looks), and there were plenty of spiders living in the resulting folds of the leather. The leather has a lot of those webbing cracks in it, especially where it's been unnaturally folded from sitting on a flat surface. It's not so dry that it cracks at the touch, and for having sat on that shelf for God-knows-how-long, I'm surprised it's in such relatively excellent shape. There is a defined cut in the cantle, and the seat looks to have been scraped away a bit in one area. The stirrup buckles are very rusty, and the strap that connects the girth to the saddle (it's not like any saddle I've seen; it's kind of Y shaped, with the girth attachment at the cross-section of the Y and making the tail) has broken off in transport, although I still have what remains of it. I'm not sure if it will ever be like new again, but I'd like to get it as close as I can. Furthermore, I have no idea what type of saddle it is. I can't find a maker's mark anywhere, but I haven't looked too thoroughly for fear of cracking the dry leather any further. Online, I've found some types of saddles that are similar, but I'm not certain they're a perfect match. I'm not sure about the year, but I figured it must have been made around late 1800s or early 1900s (and if my great-grandfather got it from HIS father, even older? His father, my great-great-grandfather, owned a slave plantation, to give a bit of perspective, although I've no idea if that's where the saddle came from). If anyone knows what kind of saddle this is, or where I can go to find out, please let me know. (P.S. I've never posted to a forum before, so I honestly don't know how to attach the picture files. The file uploader keeps telling me the picture is too big, and I had 6 pictures total to get every angle; I can add the pictures later when I figure out how. Until then, I apologize. Please share information on leather restoration, at the very least!!) -
Dear All! I have a beautiful H.S Lebman saddle that is to heavy for me to manage easily!, I am asking for advice on where is the best internet site to sell it, and also what the 'circa' value, It is a 15.5" Saddle in good condition. I am sorry to have to sell it but for long distance rides its 16 kilo is too much weight! any advice much appreciated The stamp says H.S Lebman, San Antonio, Texas, and in the center of that is S.Flores and under that name I think the number 37.
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https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10205369374412376&set=vb.1189374515&type=3&theater Video of the machine running with a barely held on home machine motor...shown sewing med fabric and Lighter garment/upolstery leather I am asking 350.00 for the head. You will need to choose your motor based on what you plan to sew! If it is shipped we will have to figure out how to get it to you will let you figure it out and choose your shipper! Buyer will pay shipping. If you are fairly close by I can meet up with you! I am in Texas Navasota area. College Station and Brenham are close! We cleaned her fully she has been lubed and is running smoothly. This is not a walking foot model machine. She sews light leather and heavy fabrics. If you are serious make me an offer! The winder is actually rare. It needs a rubber doughnut and it will wind bobbins. You will need a table and motor just want you to be aware of this fact! I am thinning down my machines I do not have room for all my collection!
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Hi there! I'm pretty new to leatherwork and am having some issues with staining. I'm using eco-flo gel antique on some bracelet blanks, but once they're all coloured the dye seems to sticking in all the little pore-like dots in the leather and I can't get it out. This makes it look a little dirty and uneven. As I said, I'm still new to leather work so I don't know if this is something I'm doing wrong? Or something wrong with the leather or the antique? I've attached a picture of the bracelet in question, so you can see what I'm talking about and 'cause my description probably isn't that good! I'd really appreciate any advice anyone has to help me out Thanks! -
Hi all! I am currently working on a purse with a tooled floral design on the front. I wanted to use the Antique Mahogany color with the design a lighter color (the resist area). Everything turned out just okay. I find the Antique very hard to use on the natural veg tan leather - it comes out a little streaky. And I think I should have wiped the excess off quicker from the resist areas to make it a bit lighter. However, my issue is that on my resist parts, there was one big spot that didn't resist. And I'm not gonna lie - I'm pissed about it because it throws the whole thing off. it's a mega eye sore and I don't think I have any other choice but to scrap that whole piece and start a new one. (*insert sad face here) I'm 100% positive I covered all areas with my Super Sheen. I was very careful and attentive. I put it on fairly thick and let it dry for over 24 hours. The rest of the resist parts came out not bad. So here am I wondering......... WHY? My only thought is that it possibly wasn't clean enough prior to putting on my Super Sheen so maybe it didn't absorb/adhere properly to the leather?? Any ideas? (I imagine there is no way to lift this spot of color? (I read some stuff about leather bleaching but no one actually said anything worked to lift color - especially in just a portion of the piece). I appreciate any thoughts on this! I'm still new so trying to work through it all! Elle
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For starters, I just wanted to say I have found this forum to be very helpful in the few projects that I have done. I have made a couple simple holsters and one belt. I am sorry to be asking such a newbie question but have not found what I am looking for yet. I think I am ready to try antiquing my newest project, a belt. I know my lingo is probably way off, but hope you might be able to understand my question. My question is can I just die the tooled portion and border of the belt and leave the background undyied. Then when I put my resistant on, just cover the tooled portion and border and leave the background resistant free. My thinking is the antique will absorb into the cracks and all portions not resisted. Will this give me a background that is darker, assuming I use a dark antique? I have trouble keeping my darker background dye off my raised edges when I attempt to dye with two different color dyes. Part of me thinks this is the normal way of doing it and part of me thinks I am just trying to cut corners. Your help will be appreciated. Thank you in advance. -
I am working on refurbishing my first pair of Chaps and I want to know the Best way of Dye/staining them back to the original colour (or close to) They are a pair dark brown riding chaps, and where the inner calf/thigh touch the saddle the colour has faded (yellowy) (rubbed away). I would like them coloured back to dark brown, BUT when riding in them I don't want the colour to rub off onto the saddle... ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated! -
We own the 2 saddles shown, and are trying to learn about the history of them. Is anyone familiar with this type/style saddle?IMG_1227.jpg, IMG_1229.jpg IMG_1228.jpg -
my father left me this old saddle when he past. I need help identifying what kind of saddle, how old, maker, and any other information that would helpful. this saddle has a marking at the rear that says "2" and then below that it says "190". any help would be appreciated.
