Search the Community

Has anyone attempted to tan their own snake skin? I've been researching through youtube mainly and found that practically all the tutorials are on rattlesnakes. I recently purchased three python skins from a taxidermist who only wanted the bones. I am attempting to tan them myself. So far I have only started with one to see if I can figure it out. Has anyone tanned both a rattlesnake and a python? The skins I got were not exactly "tube peeled" and so there is a very large band of tissue running down the spine. I tried to flesh it as best as I could. I got the fascia off for the most part but this band seems to be something else. At times I was able to get a bit lifted up and peeled off but in some areas no matter how much I scraped it would not come up. It was getting to the point where I began cutting some holes in the skin. I ended up leaving it on and I'm hoping that it works out. I put it in the tanning solution (50/50 isopropyl/glycerine), shook it twice a day for a week, and just pulled it out today to dry. In the video I watched the guy mentioned that when I pull it out I shouldn't smell anything but the isopropyl alcohol. I smelled the alcohol but there was also a hint of ... a death smell... not rotting, but dead. Have I totally messed it up? Should that smell have dissipated in the alcohol/glycerin solution? Here's the vid I watched on the solution portion:

Hi and happy new year! I came across this leather shown in the picture. Any idea about what leather is it or the technique to achieve this two-tone look (tan + yellow)? Is it a tan leather painted with yellow (acrylic?) dye or some yellow leather dyed brown? Or some pull-up leather? Or a natural veg. tanned leather dyed with tan and yellow dyes at different areas? Any help with this mystery leather would be very appreciated!

Just wrapped this one up last night. I really like the look, however, the latigo will not work for a final case (too light/flexible). I look forward to tweaking this a little bit and reconstructing out of english bridle.

Hi everyone. This is my first post. I wanted to thank the community for all I read here about vinegar black. I am madly in love with using mordant instead of dye. I was able to turn out an impulse project in no time with my month old brew. It's a holster for my fabric scissors. I made the mistake of using the live edge of the hide for the rim (I liked the soft curve of it), but it's too floppy and soft for my liking, so I know next time to either line the rim or be sure to use a tougher inner part of the hide for that edge. It was instantly gratifying and deeply satisfying. I'm thankful for this forum and hope I can post and read more when I can get my head out of my work. Take care everyone! ~gemfox

3 pieces total. Sold individually as below or all three for $600! 1 Extra Long Burgundy Latigo Side, $300 1 Large Tan Light Saddle, $200 1 Medium Grey finished, $150 Please respond for questions or to arrange pick-up. Shipping would need to be discussed.

Hi guys! got some 0.8mm Ritza 25 "Tiger" thread for sale with free shipping. I got 0.8mm because 1.0mm was just a bit too big for me. I make things like pencil and tool cases/rolls, belts, and small purses/bags with thinner leather so I like my stitches to be small but still have strength and a nice full look, and 0.8mm tiger thread was the perfect size for me. 1.0mm seemed more for bigger items with thicker leather. Anyway, I figured I don't need a full spool, so I thought I'd sell some of the extra for people who want to try it out or need smaller amounts. If they sell, I'll get more. It's really a great thread, my favorite by far. Here's a list of what I've got. 0.8mm - JK 2 Beige - Very slightly Pink on white. 0.8mm - JK 7 Mid Brown - A nice rich Dark-ish Brown. 0.8mm - JK 77 Havanna Cigar - Tobacco Brown, lighter than Mid Brown 0.8mm - JK 79 Colonial (Tan) - Looks yellow in my pictures but is more like yellowish light brown. Coming soon... 0.8mm White JK 1 -out of stock 0.8mm Black JK 23 -out of stock 0.8mm Amber Glow JK 76 -out of stock Pricing: Including free shipping to the US! 20 meters / 65.6 feet = $6.45 40 meters / 131.2 feet = $9.00 60 meters / 196.8 feet = $12.99 80 meters / 262.5 feet = $16.50 1 meter Sample Card of each color thread (4 meters total) = $4.00 Scrap sample card 1 of each color (My leftover pieces of thread that are too short to use, average 2-3 inches long, still good for deciding on color and if the thread is right for you) = $1.40 If you need any other amount or want to request a color just ask! To order some just send me a P.M with how much you want and your email, Or email JEM_Leather@outlook.com. I will create a Paypal invoice which will be sent to your email for payment. Non-US residents can contact me for shipping prices I also just started an Etsy page you can order from too! I will have more items added soon. Paypal is probably the best way to do this so that you know you have buyer protection and stuff. Pictures: Keep in mind these are not exact as my camera doesn't really capture the color perfectly. The picture with the most exact colors are the ones of the sample cards at the bottom. Beige Mid-Brown Havanna Cigar

I would like to attempt to make the following tote bag as a first project/gift. http://www.whippingpost.com/collections/totes/products/the-vintage-tote-bag I contacted the site and found out that they use a 5/6 oz veg tan leather, and copper rivets. Here is where the guidance comes in... In being new, i need to know the following: Where should i source the leather from? How do I finish to obtain these results/color? Where do i purchase the hardware/stitching material? Also, anything that you can think of that may help me in the process of creating this bag Thank you all, and what a terrific forum. Matt

Hi all, I am having issues getting a nice clean burnish on natural (un-dyed) veg tan. This is my process: I sand with 80 grit to make edges even and square if necessary. Sand edges with medium and then fine. Trim the edges with a tandy edge beveler. Wet the edges with small wool dauber as neatly as I can. Burnish with a wooden hand burnisher (picture below, I wonder if the burnisher I am using isn't the best). Then I add beeswax to the edge, and burnish again with the same wooden burnisher. My problem is, I am not getting a very clean edge. After I put water on the edge and do the first burnish, water leaks or is pushed onto the face of the leather, away from the edge, either by the burnishing, or just by the water itself. It makes the face look messy and the edge not like like a straight edge. This would be easy to hide if I were to dye the leather before my final burnish, but it looks really messy on natural leather, and honestly, I would like to just have a solid method that looks good regardless if I dye or not. I have read hidepounders tutorial on finishing edges, but I don't really want to use the paste or paraffin, I am trying to keep it to beeswax/water, or any other natural product. Thanks!

The title is pretty self explanitory. I am wondering how you darken natural leather without the use of dyes or stains. I have a dark brown dye. But to get an even coat without an air brush requires multiple coats and it darkens it a ton. How would I get a light brown color without dying or staining? I would prefer something that started out very light, maybe 2 or 3 shades darker than natural, and got darker with multiple applications. Thanks Zayne

Hi, I've got a question here regarding a few hides of natural vegtable tan steer leather I bought for leather handbags. The leather is very stiff, dry, and pale and the way I have the bag stuctured, a very large piece comprises both the front and the back and needs to remain faily stiff for the structure to work. I plan to sell these at a higher price point and I'm worried about wrinkles that developed at the handle and when I inverted the bag after sewing. What is the best way to prevent at least the intitial wrinkles so it displays nicely? My plan was just to apply tan-kote but it will take a lot. Perhaps a thin layer? Any better suggestions? Thanks, Cameron