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Posted

:16:

 

If you do decide to start a new piece and it was me I’d get a new piece of quality leather like HO or W/C.  Keep us up to date on what you decide to do and how it goes. 

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Posted
13 hours ago, fredk said:

This

I've given this more thought

Start again on a fresh piece of leather

1. its a very special present and deserves the best of the best

2. no matter what 'fixes' we can offer, it will still be a 'fix'

3. you'll spend more time, maybe wasted, which you can put to use on a new piece

4. and more cost of solutions to fix it than a piece of leather is worth

5. you'll never be happy with that fixed piece, but you will be on a new piece. You'll constantly worry if the fixed piece passes muster, but no worries that a new piece will do

6. Keep the old piece for practicing on or use parts of it in other projects

i agree totally and use the first to practice ALL of what you are going to do on the finish piece before you make another mistake. I have made two things many times LOL.

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

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Posted
23 hours ago, YinTx said:

Fiebings dye reducer if I recall is denatured alcohol.  It or isopropyl work,  I have used both.  However, I must say it may not be you, it could just be the leather.  I had this issue with some of the import leathers I had, so I tend to use specific brands now.  If you still have the issue after all the suggestions, recognize it may be the quality of the hide.

YinTx

Thank you!!!

20 hours ago, fredk said:

btw, with using all these different solutions on your leather they take out its natural oils which makes the leather go as stiff as a piece of masonite. You'll need to give it a feed of neatsfoot oil, aka NFO. But go easy with that, too much and its ruined. To make sure I give just a small amount of NFO, I have a wax & NFO mix which I apply and rub in, then buff off.

Thank you!!!

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Posted
3 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

i agree totally and use the first to practice ALL of what you are going to do on the finish piece before you make another mistake. I have made two things many times LOL.

Thank you all for your time & suggestions! 

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Posted

and, btw, yellow, orange and red are the hardest colours to get even

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

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Posted
2 hours ago, fredk said:

and, btw, yellow, orange and red are the hardest colours to get even

I was wondering that! Thanks! 

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Posted
On 7/8/2022 at 9:57 AM, Campleathergoods said:

When I was hand dying my projects, I found great results in a pair of latex gloves and dye gel, a couple different manufacturers make it. After using it I never went back to "traditional dye" Especially useful for larger pieces of leather, you can just massage the gel in, let it sit for a few minutes and wipe it dry. 

https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/c/product/fiebing_s_vintage_gel_8_oz_light_brown_50250_08_41/50250-08-41

 

Thank you!!!

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Posted

Also, you will not be able to get a bright yellow with dye. You can certainly get a more even dye job with the above tips, but unless you use paint, the color will be close to what you have.

May God Smile on you today.

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Posted

Keep in mind that a darker color will cover a lot of sins, even if it is not black.  Maybe you want it to be a "happy" color.  You might try a yellow-orange or yellow-green tint.

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Posted

The best way to get an even coverage is with an airbrush (even the cheapies used for cake decorating or face/body painting) should work.

Just saying.:)

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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