Rocky143

After researching this thoroughly, I have decided to nickel plate it. It seems quite simple and there are plenty of tutorial videos.

Title says it all: How do you prevent a (not stainless) steel bench block from rusting?

Keep in mind that a darker color will cover a lot of sins, even if it is not black. Maybe you want it to be a "happy" color. You might try a yellow-orange or yellow-green tint.

A good way to get a marble or granite slab is from a kitchen countertop company. They have many cut-out pieces that are waste. They would rather give it away than spend $40 per ton to dispose of it in a landfill. They will cut it to the size you want for a reasonable price. Two-inch thick is better than a thinner piece. Three-inches is probably not necessary. Broken slate pool tables are good. How to make sound deadening panels, cheap: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqodnHxRJ7c&t=1654s DIY Active Noise Cancellation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqodnHxRJ7c&t=1654s At Google Shopping, search for Sound Deadening Material. Look for a high NRC (Noise Reduction Constant), the percentage of sound that is absorbed by the material. The first link above details how to make panels from 2" thick rock wool, which has a NRC of near 100%. Other material less than 1/2" thick has a NRC around 60% and multiple layers can be used.

I think the problem with the grapes is that they are not large enough. Note on the original that the grape circles are all touching each other. Background is kinda rough. Possibly a bar-grounder would be better.

If you look up DIY silicone waterproofing, you will find instructions for dissolving silicone caulk in mineral spirits and using that to waterproof things. I think the ratio is 1 silicone to 4 mineral spirits and I don't know if that is by weight or volume. If you were to soak the leather in that, it would be thoroughly impregnated with silicone. To me, it sounds infeasible to expect leather to endure 20 years of being laundered. Could you make the cuffs removable and expect them to be wiped down instead of washed?

What do people use for ID windows in wallets, etc.? I have had things with ID windows that "melted" photocopy ink which then became fused into the window material. Does anyone know why that happens? How do I choose materials for which that will not happen? What materials do you use and how do you choose them?

At Google, search for: free leather pattern OR template You can restrict it to pdf files: Filetype:pdf fre leather pattern OR template You can find almost any pattern you could want if you do artful Google searches, However, if you want to spend money buying patterns, try: https://www.etsy.com/shop/leatherpatternstore?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=262257706 https://elktracksstudio.com/collections/free-patterns

I bought some upholstery leather scraps. Some of the pieces were folded . When I try to lay them flat, the folds remain. What is the best way to flatten them out? The leather is all 1 oz to 3 oz. It is vat dried light brown, medium brown, and black. Some pieces have a shiny finish on the grain side with a dyed surface texture. I have thought of ironing it and saturating with water then letting it dry flat. Suggestions anyone?

Abrasives are available in the form of cords and tapes. Abrasive tapes are sold to make non-slip surfaces on stairs and other walking surfaces. Many of them are self-adhesive. They are available in smaller strips and in rolls. There is no information on the grit sizes. There is no claim that they would hold up if used for sharpening. They might only be useful for the roughest sharpening and only if they were less expensive than graded papers. Abrasive cords are a different matter. They are intended to be used for sanding. Different abrasive materials are available. Cord is graded for size of grit and diameter of cord. The thinnest cord I found was 0.3 mm. If you search for "abrasive cord" at Google Shopping, you will find many types. It is also available at (of all places) Walmart.com. I did not find it online at Lowes or Home Depot.

Evan Atwell owns a knife store in San Francisco where he sells primarily Japanese knives to mostly chefs. He recommends the following four knife sharpening videos: https://www.youtube.com/c/JKnifeImports/featured https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMgrrl7g7pU-BAQtzDqx7Dg/playlists https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCw0XmK5fYv3n_LL8_jkk9dQ https://www.youtube.com/c/HITOHIRAJAPAN This was published in a an article at Thrillist.com: https://www.thrillist.com/eat/nation/best-tips-techniques-sharpening-knives

The best selling leather conditioner at Amazon is Leather Honey. It was developed by a family in West Virginia, which is where I live. It has been in the news here with glowing reviews from many people. It has been on the market for some time, so I think it is a dependable product. http://www.leatherhoney.com https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Care-Products/b/ref=dp_bc_aui_C_4?ie=UTF8&node=15718561

For the top of your stamping, punching area, ask a terrazzo contractor to quote you a price for making you a terrazzo counter top. Also, there are plenty of videos about DIY concrete counter tops. Be aware that stones like granite and basalt are denser than concrete, so if you opt for concrete, you may want it to be a little thicker. Thickness of the top should be taken into account when calculating height of the table.

Terrific upgrade to an otherwise mundane object!

Wow! A masterpiece. You sure know how to do flowers!!

You might look into blasting materials. They have "steel grit" or "iron grit." It is sand sized, irregularly shaped pieces of iron and is cheap. Mixed with epoxy, it would be good for your use. Small lead bars are sold as weights for exercise equipment like ankle weights and weighted vests. Get a length of 1/2" copper pipe and put a cap on one end. fill it with lead or solder. Melt it with a blow torch, then put a cap on the other end. You probably don't need the densest material available. You can make the handle heavier by making the weight longer.

What leather crafters call bump jigs, wood workers call "positioning squares." They are usually sold in sets of two or four, without a straight edge. I went through Amazon's entire offering of positioning squares and found one, and only one, set of two positioning squares with a straight edge. It is selling for $11.11 with free shipping for Prime members. It is available in 3-, 4-, and 6-inch models. It is the 4-inch one that sells for $11.11. It is orange plastic. https://www.amazon.com/Chiloskit-Woodworking-Carpenter-Auxiliary-Locator/dp/B07F3WTF18/ref=sr_1_258?crid=22MNMD87XVXMV&keywords=ruler%2Bpositioning%2Bsquare&qid=1642256981&sprefix=ruler%20positioning%20square%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-258&th=1

Thank you! Thank you! I have watched a lot of DG's videos. He knows his stuff. I'll check out his materials.

What are some suppliers who produce good quality kits for skilled leather workers, not kids at summer camp or beginners? If you believe a couple of suppliers stand head and shoulders above the others in this area, please tell me about them!

I'm exploring prices. I want to get a half hide or so of 2-3 oz to use as lining. If the splitting cost is low enough, I would save money by having a thick hide split, rather than buying a thin hide. Being able to use the split for projects is a big incentive.

Which U.S. leather suppliers of veg tan will split a half hide? What does that usually cost?

Business envelopes are a good source for colored Tyvek. Search online for Tyvek Envelopes. I did a quick search a minute ago and found a 10" x 13", 25 pack which worked out to be $0.60 per square foot for black.

Michael, Valerie, 1993, The Leatherworking Handbook: Cassell Illustrated, 128 p. This seems to be a very good general book on leatherworking, but it does not deal with carving and embossing. It can be found new or used through Bookfinder.com. Michael recommends PVA glue instead of contact cement. She says, "The most versatile adhesive is leatherworking grade PVA adhesive. It is used to hold gussets and pattern pieces in position ready for stitching, to secure turned edges, and to attach linings and reinforcements....Rubber solution is a contact adhesive. It is ideal for holding edges together while you are box stitching and for turning edges of lined belts and bags." Her directions for using PVA are about the same as contact adhesive. Apply the PVA to both surfaces. Let it dry until it begins turning from white to clear, at which point it will be tacky. Adhere the surfaces and press them together firmly. I never see PVA recommended by American leatherworkers. My question is whether it is okay to use PVA in place of contact cement? PVA remains flexible when dry. Using it would save exposure to hazardous chemicals. PVA is not waterproof and should not be used for leather swimsuits or leather life jackets, but most leather goods do not get a lot of exposure to water. I would appreciate reading some discussion of this from other leatherworkers.