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Posted

I am wanting a belt for my .45 ACP  Cattleman.  ACP.  So….ideally, are loops tight enough to securely hold the round by the case, (and if so can you get the round out when you need it?), or does ammo like .45 LC rest on the rim?

Thank you

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Posted
  On 4/13/2025 at 5:04 PM, Ravenshurst said:

I am wanting a belt for my .45 ACP  Cattleman.  ACP.  So….ideally, are loops tight enough to securely hold the round by the case, (and if so can you get the round out when you need it?), or does ammo like .45 LC rest on the rim?

Thank you

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Leather stretches with age.  You want them fairly tight from the build.  When you are fine tuning the loops…. Use new brass.  Don’t use fired brass, because they’ve expanded…. Then new brass will be loose.  If you start off loose, as the leather breaks in, you’ll wind up losing rounds.  
 

rimed rounds will rest on the rim, but you should be able to make loops for 45acp and have them hold.  Realistically I think modern gun belts with bullet loops are far more for looks than truly expecting to be reloading from the loops all the time.  If I was reloading on the clock, I’d be inclined to keep a handful of loose rounds in a dump pouch, rather than trying to reload from bullet loops.  If you are just practicing, having an extra box with you is more practical.  The only time I might worry about losing rounds would be if you have a day hunting on horseback.

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Posted (edited)

Littlef- Thank you so much.  I knew that fired brass has expanded, but I honestly would never have thought of that making the loops loose. I realize that loading from a pocket or pouch is faster, that modern cartridge belts are mostly for looks, but I am kinda a fanatic about “getting it right”. I don’t compete, I don’t shoot CAS (although I wish I did) I just looove SAs.  My Daily Carry is a 1911, so converting the revolver just made sense.  Besides, I like to tinker…..

Sorry, rambled on a bit….Again, thanks so much.  I can’t wait to get started!

Edited by Ravenshurst
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Posted (edited)
  On 4/13/2025 at 5:04 PM, Ravenshurst said:

I am wanting a belt for my .45 ACP  Cattleman.  ACP.  So….ideally, are loops tight enough to securely hold the round by the case, (and if so can you get the round out when you need it?), or does ammo like .45 LC rest on the rim?

Thank you

Expand  

I have done bullet loops both ways . . . and do not like the long term results of those that are stitched.  Old leatherworkers 150 years ago . . . didn't have sewing machines . . . and hand sewing belt loops is a real pain.

Their alternative is my favorite way of doing them . . . and they should not stretch out and get loose as quickly as sewn ones.  My cowboy belt is over 20 years old . . . still holds them well.

Basically you make a vertical slot in the leather . . . pull the loop material thru the slot . . . turn it around and pull it back thru the same hole . . . and pull it tight on the bullet.

As mentioned . . .  DO NOT use fired cases.  I like to use my own hand loads . . . because I know the cases are sized down.

After pulling the leather thru both ways . . . insert the bullet . . . and pull the loop up tight closed . . . I normally use about 12 bullets . . . and when I get to # 13 . . . I take out # 1 and use it.  The # 2 bullet goes into # 14 and so on.

Don't leave them in too long . . . you want the leather still slightly damp when you slide the round out of it.

Let it dry overnight . . . and dye the leather . . . then add your finishing.  Most will be tight the first time you put them in there . . . and when you come home for the day . . . if you are not going shooting within 3 or 4 days . . . take the rounds out.

Use calf leather if you can get it for the loops . . . or shoulder leather works well also.

I make all my belts as double layer . . . that is why the belt is 6 oz.  Two layers is 12 oz which will always be slightly over 3/16 of an inch thick.  Make your .45 ACP loop material as wide as the case is long . . . minus the rim.  When properly done . . . an inserted cartridge will show the rim above the loop and the bullet below the loop . . . and that is all.

After you dye and finish it . . . the first time in with the bullets . . . it'll be tight . . . but they'll wear in.

Have fun . . . may God bless,

Dwight

 

See the pictures I included in here.cartridgeexample1.jpg.bd49e77940796e2311cba1a3c310b13b.jpgcartridgeexample1.jpg.bd49e77940796e2311cba1a3c310b13b.jpgcartridgeexample4.jpg.1501d150bab02f9e49fe5a372db9f64d.jpg

Edited by Dwight
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Posted

Thanks chaps for sharing all this information. I don't make such belts but its interesting to larn not to use fired cartridges cos they've expanded

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Posted

@Dwight thanks for the reminder.  I remember you posting this several years ago (maybe 5).  I followed your directions and it has worked perfectly each time I use it.  Thanks for taking the time to share again.  

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Posted

What @Dwight said, I use this method and have not had any issues with it.

Todd

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Posted

I don't make loops on gunbelts (no need to here in Oz 'cos we can only use handguns at the range) but we use carrier strips (10 per side) and I use Dwight's method, it's simpler, faster and there's no stitching to break. I thought I'd be clever and used kangaroo for the one I use as kangaroo is thin, very strong and doesn't stretch much. Nice theory but it's a pain as it's too flexible and when pushing the cartridges in/out it moves too much! I need to make a new one with thicker leather.

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Posted (edited)

You can also add a thin strip below the ammo loops. And even if loops do loosen up a bit over the years they still want fall out from the bottom. You can also adjust where you put the stop strip to get the rounds to set a little higher in the loops making them easier to fetch. I also like to remove my dummy rounds when loops are allmost dry but not quite. Then they draw up a bit more without the ammo in place. Then work the rounds back in the loops once fully dry for a snug fit that's still usable. Here's a pic of a rig I done using the strip under the ammo loops like a stop. This method works good for straight cartridgeslike the 45acpScreenshot_20250414_223935_Gallery.jpg.f50f302bafda5742b2d739b251ee96cd.jpg

Edited by HandyDave
  • CFM
Posted
  On 4/15/2025 at 2:48 AM, HandyDave said:

You can also add a thin strip below the ammo loops. And even if loops do loosen up a bit over the years they still want fall out from the bottom. You can also adjust where you put the stop strip to get the rounds to set a little higher in the loops making them easier to fetch. I also like to remove my dummy rounds when loops are allmost dry but not quite. Then they draw up a bit more without the ammo in place. Then work the rounds back in the loops once fully dry for a snug fit that's still usable. Here's a pic of a rig I done using the strip under the ammo loops like a stop. This method works good for straight cartridgeslike the 45acpScreenshot_20250414_223935_Gallery.jpg.f50f302bafda5742b2d739b251ee96cd.jpg

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thats the ticket!!! cartridges are expensive and rimless ones don't play fair and is added assurance on the off chance the person actually rides a horse with it on. 

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