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Posted
2 hours ago, Timekeeper said:

Good morning gentlemen.

I've recently acquired a Landis lock stitch machine. Late 1800's. It came with one needle marked Landis 3. 

What thread should I use with this needle? Also I am a knife maker and will be sewing my own sheaths. Usually 3 layers of 8_9 ounce leather. About 1/2 inch thick total. Is there a supplier for smaller needles. This needle is larger than needed. 

Thank you for your help.

Kevin

Kevin;

You will probably get more answers if you start a new topic in this section of the forum, rather than adding to an old pinned topic that has nothing to do with your brand of machine. There are several Landis owners here that can assist you. Just start a new topic.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

  • 4 months later...
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Posted (edited)

I tried putting an old style (new condition) 7x3-25 “Cold Swaged” machine needle in my Durkopp Adler 205-370, but the shank is too big to go into the hole in the needle bar.  It’s just a hair big enough that it won’t go in.  Organ 7x3-26 needles go in fine.  I don’t know the age of the old style needle (looks like “D&H Trade Mark” brand), but I’m wondering if they were manufactured prior to development of the 794 needle system, and that today’s 7x3 size compromises to cover multiple needle systems? I don’t know what the “C.P.” designation means, but I assume it indicates the point style.  Anyone know?

CD in Oklahoma

20190503_103358.thumb.jpg.1dd1fa9924c8694da033b8af995644a4.jpg20190503_103409.thumb.jpg.f935e9c76023ac40a4ee970b8d836089.jpg

 

 

20190503_103358.jpg

Edited by cdthayer

"I sew, I sew, so it's off to work I go....."
My sewing machines:

Adler 205-370 (Hand Crank), Adler 205-64 (Hand Crank), Consew 226 (Clutch/Speed Reducer), Singer 111G156 (Hand Crank or Clutch), Singer 111W153 (Clutch), Singer 20U33 (Clutch), Singer 78-3 Needlefeed (Treadle), Singer 20U (Treadle), Singer 29K70 (x2) (Both Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 96-40 w/Darning Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 w/Roller Foot (Treadle), Singer 31-15 (Hand Crank), Singer 16-41 (Treadle), Singer 66-1 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 201K4 (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 216G Zigzag (Treadle/Hand Crank), Singer 319W (Treadle)

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

I have based the needle size on the thread and fabric i use. I normally store all relevant sizes of needles with regular point. A starting point for me is the guide from the thread manufacturer - and in my case Amann:

https://www.amann.com/products/ 

They have a recommended needle size for all their threads. I have noticed, that for the same tex value or number involved for nylon and polyester, then Amann recommends a larger needle for nylon. Polyester have a higher density than nylon, and therefore nylon will have a bigger effective size for the same weight. This could be one explanation.

I start with a needle size recommended. Then I may try to reduce the needle size until it do not work for the fabric and thickness involved.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted (edited)
On 5/13/2019 at 6:28 AM, Gymnast said:

I have based the needle size on the thread and fabric i use. I normally store all relevant sizes of needles with regular point. A starting point for me is the guide from the thread manufacturer - and in my case Amann:

https://www.amann.com/products/ 

They have a recommended needle size for all their threads. I have noticed, that for the same tex value or number involved for nylon and polyester, then Amann recommends a larger needle for nylon. Polyester have a higher density than nylon, and therefore nylon will have a bigger effective size for the same weight. This could be one explanation.

I start with a needle size recommended. Then I may try to reduce the needle size until it do not work for the fabric and thickness involved.

I am very familiar with Amann threads. I used to be a dealer.  They have many styles of thread, but I'm going to assume that you're using either serafil (unbonded polyester) or Serabond(bonded polyester) because they are the most common.  Perhaps Strongbond, maybe.  

The main problem with Amann threads is that they are just too damn good.  They are amazing threads.  They're smooth, they're strong, they flow like water through the machines, and are packaged onto spools in a way that makes sense (length, instead of weight).  They lay down on leather like glass and look AMAZING.  I LOVE the thread, and love sewing with it on my own projects.  

But I HATED selling the thread.  Most Americans here were raised on the coarse american threads or the chinese thread (nuff said).   This thread has all kinds of issues, and people have learned to adjust their machines for those threads.   But give them the Amann thread, and it's not stop complaints about how the machine won't hold tension, they can sew right, it won't work with their needles, etc.  For the Amann threads you literally have to double the standard tensions to get a grip on the thread.  Do that, and then swap back to american thread, and it's just a night full of cussing and screwdrivers.  

For Amann threads you should use at LEAST one size smaller needle.  For 277 thread you should use a 794 size 24 needle.  Maybe a 23.   for 138, you should use a 794 size 22, maybe a 21.  you'll get much better results this way.  

Btw, I have 200 cones of Serafil that I want to get rid of.  mostly 277, 207, & 138, in white, and a few unrelated colors.  make me a decent offer.  Not kidding.  

 

Edited by SolarLeatherMachines

Alexander
 

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Posted
On 10/21/2015 at 12:04 PM, CowboyBob said:

The cons of monofilament are the sun breaks it down real quick maybe 2-3 yrs,it can also cut into vinyl,it's better to use it on cloth type of material for that reason & if you use it a lot it cuts into the thread guides & tension unit & after while it cuts grooves in the hook.

Can confirm.  Monofilament will cut grooves in your tension set over time.  

Alexander
 

Posted
3 hours ago, SolarLeatherMachines said:

I am very familiar with Amann threads. I used to be a dealer.  They have many styles of thread, but I'm going to assume that you're using either serafil (unbonded polyester) or Serabond(bonded polyester) because they are the most common.  Perhaps Strongbond, maybe.  

The main problem with Amann threads is that they are just too damn good.  They are amazing threads.  They're smooth, they're strong, they flow like water through the machines, and are packaged onto spools in a way that makes sense (length, instead of weight).  They lay down on leather like glass and look AMAZING.  I LOVE the thread, and love sewing with it on my own projects.  

But I HATED selling the thread.  Most Americans here were raised on the coarse american threads or the chinese thread (nuff said).   This thread has all kinds of issues, and people have learned to adjust their machines for those threads.   But give them the Amann thread, and it's not stop complaints about how the machine won't hold tension, they can sew right, it won't work with their needles, etc.  For the Amann threads you literally have to double the standard tensions to get a grip on the thread.  Do that, and then swap back to american thread, and it's just a night full of cussing and screwdrivers.  

For Amann threads you should use at LEAST one size smaller needle.  For 277 thread you should use a 794 size 24 needle.  Maybe a 23.   for 138, you should use a 794 size 22, maybe a 21.  you'll get much better results this way.  

Btw, I have 200 cones of Serafil that I want to get rid of.  mostly 277, 207, & 138, in white, and a few unrelated colors.  make me a decent offer.  Not kidding.  

 

All so true. I do prefer the Strongbond  (ex Venus) as it behaves less slippery in the tension and behaves better than any other I have tried. It does not suffer from that hairy look when you finish and burns off nicely as well. Only problems is here in Australia it is getting very low on the colour range available these days and if they don't have it, you have to buy a whole carton of the one colour.

WH.jpgWild Harry - Australian made leather goods
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  • 1 month later...
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Posted

I was on eBay looking for needle for a couple of my machines from a seller I have purchased needles in the past and I came across a picture of a page called  "Industrial Needle Comparison Table", amongst the pictures of his needles to help with the various numbers for the same type.

As I only have older machines and in Australia, I found he will help do the best postage he can. You can find him at https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/jacksnbs/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

Bert.

I hope I am allowed to post that link?

1972482566_IndustialNeedleCompanrisiion.thumb.jpg.f044421e6fddd03e9c868a034d35efb4.jpg

  • 10 months later...
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Posted

I am really late to the party, I know...... But is there an specific adjustments I should be making when down stepping from a #22 needle and 138 thread to a #20 need and 92 bonded nylon thread? I am new to industrial machines, and we picked up a Cobra 26. It came with a #22 needle and a spool of 138 thread. I followed the manuals instructions to load a new bobbin, change the needle and rethread the machine with #92 bonded nylon thread. I checked to make sure it was done per instruction manual and Al Bane, and I am pretty confident I did it correctly. My problem comes when I try to stitch. I am using 4oz waxed finished leather in an attempt to make a tote. I was snapping thread, so I adjusted the tension and solved that problem, however, the hook is not catching the top thread (it never did, even before I moved the snapping thread issue). I have searched, and googled, and cussed.... I decided to switch back to the #22 and 138 thread to see if I would still have the problem, and magically.... there was no issues. I am probably not wording my question correctly and I apologize. As I said I am very new to this and any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Stephanie

  • 4 months later...
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Posted
On 5/6/2020 at 11:59 AM, ScrewItUpSteph said:

I am really late to the party, I know...... But is there an specific adjustments I should be making when down stepping from a #22 needle and 138 thread to a #20 need and 92 bonded nylon thread? I am new to industrial machines, and we picked up a Cobra 26. It came with a #22 needle and a spool of 138 thread. I followed the manuals instructions to load a new bobbin, change the needle and rethread the machine with #92 bonded nylon thread. I checked to make sure it was done per instruction manual and Al Bane, and I am pretty confident I did it correctly. My problem comes when I try to stitch. I am using 4oz waxed finished leather in an attempt to make a tote. I was snapping thread, so I adjusted the tension and solved that problem, however, the hook is not catching the top thread (it never did, even before I moved the snapping thread issue). I have searched, and googled, and cussed.... I decided to switch back to the #22 and 138 thread to see if I would still have the problem, and magically.... there was no issues. I am probably not wording my question correctly and I apologize. As I said I am very new to this and any help would be greatly appreciated. 

Stephanie

i have the same machine and want to do the same thing you described so i am wondering if you ever got it figured out

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Please have pity on a newbie.  I have a Singer 17-1 which lists the required needle size as 16 x 2.  I have done some research to learn that the “new” designation for a 16 x 2 is 2047-71. But I haven’t been able to find a correlation to the 100/16, 90/14 etc sizing.  I am going to use it for inlays and overlays in light leather,  any suggestions?  Thanks so much!

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