Contributing Member JLSleather Posted October 9, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted October 9, 2015 The change in stitch length is due to the pendulum effect of the needle bar pivoting from the top of the machine head. The longer the needlebar and needle combination, the greater the loss of stitch length as the thickness increases. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Evo160K Posted October 9, 2015 Report Posted October 9, 2015 My wife was reading this thread and commented on the thickness of the leather. She's wondering if a damp cloth and an iron (or steam) would remove the marks, like on wood? Quote
Members dikman Posted October 10, 2015 Members Report Posted October 10, 2015 It would probably remove the marks, but I suspect it could have some "interesting" effects on the dye. Quote Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500. Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)
Uwe Posted October 12, 2015 Report Posted October 12, 2015 That is a pretty strong wedge shape, looks like a door stop! A couple things come to mind: You may have to adjust foot pressure spring as you change to the thicker part. As the material gets thicker, the spring probably gets compressed more and puts more force on the leather surface. Those marks look like high heel marks on a wood floor, change the footwear and make sure it sits flat. Try using a presser foot with a larger bottom surface to distribute the pressure and make sure it sits flat on the top surface of the leather. It may heel or toe into the leather because you're walking a relatively steep grade downhill or uphill. The top surface of the leather is never quite parallel to the needle plate or the bottom of the presser feet with a wedge like that. Build a "ramp" attachment to compensate for the wedge shape of your work piece and make the top surface level. Is that a test piece or an actual part you need to produce? If it's just a test piece, the problem may disappear if you sew a actual work piece with constant thickness (or just the occasional step up or down) and parallel surfaces rather than a continuous wedge shape. Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members Big Sioux Saddlery Posted October 12, 2015 Members Report Posted October 12, 2015 Uwe nailed it. It's the steep uphill/downhill that is at least in part responsible for the marks. I see it in harness construction such as breeching ends where I go from 2 layers thick to 5 at the very end. Even with careful skiving, there's going to be an increase in thickness. Sewing uphill is worse than downhill for leaving marks. Backing off the downward tension on the presser foot when you come to material as thick as shown in your pics usually results in dropped stitches, at least for me. Going through that much material needs a lot of pressure on the foot. I rub out what I can, and just have to live with what's left. Not to say that some filing on the foot couldn't help. Quote
Members TinkerTailor Posted October 12, 2015 Members Report Posted October 12, 2015 Run an embossing wheel over the marks and make it look like you meant it. Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
Members Colt W Knight Posted October 12, 2015 Members Report Posted October 12, 2015 Run an embossing wheel over the marks and make it look like you meant it. IS that like a roller, or more like an English wheel? Quote
Members TinkerTailor Posted October 12, 2015 Members Report Posted October 12, 2015 I have seen them as a hand tool much like a stitch marking wheel but with an embossing pattern. Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
Members bushpilotmexico Posted October 13, 2015 Author Members Report Posted October 13, 2015 I appreciate all the replies. I sewed that test piece with a left toe presser foot and a lot of weight is on the single foot. My nephews wife's father is a saddle maker and he suggested that I try using the double toe foot. I did today and because the weight is being distributed between the two feet there is considerably less indentations. On the test piece earlier I dampened the leather, burnished and they all disappeared. Vic the saddle maker said that considering the leather is pre-dyed just to dampen the leather along the stitch line taking in any presser toe marks and then burnish. Vic said that even if the leather picks up a water stain it might even compliment the holster when finished. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted October 13, 2015 Members Report Posted October 13, 2015 Colt, you can buy different wheels that will fit your stitching wheel hand tool. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/400388832912?catId=14339&item=400388832912&mid=446528&sortbid=20&rmvSB=true Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
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