work bench

[mikesc]

Phase 2

1x 4x4ft x 18mm sheet half'd & joined together for strength, just need a protection agent but I don't want marine varnish.

You could mix up some polyester resin ( don't need "food grade" ) with catalyst and give it two coats of that, work fast and you'll not be needing to thin the coats with anything..sand after the first one has "cured" ( although it doesn't "lift grain" as much as marine varnish .. go ever the second one ( when it has "cured" ) with a scotch pad..if you add pigment ( for polyester resin ) to the resin you can get any colour that you can get pigments to mix to.

[garypl]

17 hours ago, garypl said:

Susan,

If you have a space on a wall, you can build a very sturdy workbench by screwing a horizontal beam to the wall (2x4" by however long you wish to make the table).  Screw the beam to the wall at the height you want, then make a table top frame out of 2x4" lumber and top it with plywood or whatever material you wish to use.  Just make certain the top is at least 1.5" thick.  Working on the floor, make a couple of support legs from 4x4" lumber and lag bolt them to the underside of the table top in the two corners.  Cut the legs so they are the proper height that when the top is set onto the wall beam, the legs will support the underside of the top.  Now have someone help you flip the table right side up and set the rear edge on top of the wall beam, bolt the top to the beam, build a shelf underneath the table to strengthen it and provide storage space.

This sounds more complicated than it is to build and I will post a few pictures tonight when I return home.  It makes an extremely sturdy bench top and the cost is minimal.  Only caveat is you must have some blank wall space to attach the bench/table top.

Gary

Here are some photos - I use this bench for reloading, but it is solid as a rock and would also work well for leatherworking.

 

 

 

 

[Orangeleather]

29 minutes ago, mikesc said:

 

You could mix up some polyester resin ( don't need "food grade" ) with catalyst and give it two coats of that, work fast and you'll not be needing to thin the coats with anything..sand after the first one has "cured" ( although it doesn't "lift grain" as much as marine varnish .. go ever the second one ( when it has "cured" ) with a scotch pad..if you add pigment ( for polyester resin ) to the resin you can get any colour that you can get pigments to mix to.

Thanks Mike, 

Would that mixture harden the wood surface more or mainly give it the long life protection?

[mikesc]

It would do both..polyester will harden the surface ( and it penetrates well so will harden the top "ply" and maybe the one under it depending on the thickness of each "ply" ) the protection is that it is pretty impervious to most things ( although it will stain a bit with some dyes )..although it can be diluted with acetone ( which is a pretty aggressive solvent ) before curing.. once it has "cured" ( catalysed ) the chemical make up changes and the resulting structure and chemical composition of the molecules is much more resilient, even to acetone..

Think of the decks and hulls and superstructure and the lockers on deck etc of fishing boats..they are pretty impervious to sea water , oil, petrol ( gasoline for the "left side of pondians" ) and most chemicals..and the abrasion resistance is improved.There used to be a place in Dudley ( and another I think it was in Stockton , Teeside ) that sold the plywood that was polyester resin impregnated and faced ( dark brown and red in colour ) that made up some of the old British Railways wagons ( not the really old ones from when I was a kid, but the ones that came in in the 70s ) when they took the wagons out of service you could buy entire sheets of the plywood for scrap..there is a similar place in France in Nancy and another in Strasbourg )..There is a name for this kind of plywood, ( but I can't remember it *) it is probably available commercially now anyway..but would be stupidly expensive..and for what you need , you can impregnate it yourself.

Just a couple of things..don't be tempted to add more catalyst than it says ( usually less than 3% by volume ) ..it will appear to be doing nothing, and then start to cure very fast and you'll have a solid tin of the stuff and a solid brush too ..and don't sleep in the room that the thing is curing in, the "outgassing" smell is a mix of gases / vapours in "the styrene family" ..and is bad for you..as in very bad for you..best do it outside ..or wear a mask or have the room well ventilated while you are working ( windows open etc ) ..you can close the windows and leave the room 'til next day when you are done with each coat..when you go back in..open the windows and let the gas and vapours dissipate before continuing work..a bit of "background" heat in the room will speed up the "curing rate"..

*Anyone who remembers what it ( or similar ) is called where they are ( wherever they are ) ?

Edited January 11, 2018 by mikesc

[JMcC]

17 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

I think that looks alright but I would put the front support back half way between the two ends in order to have better leg room while sitting.Brian

 

 

20 hours ago, SonderingSusan said:

what does everyone think of this bench?

its 195 euro/ compared to the others?

 

all opinions welcome ! 

@brmax?

wb5.tiff

I agree with Rocky, the table looks solid but as is, there isn't room for your legs while sitting. Move the front brace back and it would work well I think.

[Orangeleather]

1 hour ago, mikesc said:

It would do both..polyester will harden the surface ( and it penetrates well so will harden the top "ply" and maybe the one under it depending on the thickness of each "ply" ) the protection is that it is pretty impervious to most things ( although it will stain a bit with some dyes )..although it can be diluted with acetone ( which is a pretty aggressive solvent ) before curing.. once it has "cured" ( catalysed ) the chemical make up changes and the resulting structure and chemical composition of the molecules is much more resilient, even to acetone..

Think of the decks and hulls and superstructure and the lockers on deck etc of fishing boats..they are pretty impervious to sea water , oil, petrol ( gasoline for the "left side of pondians" ) and most chemicals..and the abrasion resistance is improved.There used to be a place in Dudley ( and another I think it was in Stockton , Teeside ) that sold the plywood that was polyester resin impregnated and faced ( dark brown and red in colour ) that made up some of the old British Railways wagons ( not the really old ones from when I was a kid, but the ones that came in in the 70s ) when they took the wagons out of service you could buy entire sheets of the plywood for scrap..there is a similar place in France in Nancy and another in Strasbourg )..There is a name for this kind of plywood, ( but I can't remember it *) it is probably available commercially now anyway..but would be stupidly expensive..and for what you need , you can impregnate it yourself.

Just a couple of things..don't be tempted to add more catalyst than it says ( usually less than 3% by volume ) ..it will appear to be doing nothing, and then start to cure very fast and you'll have a solid tin of the stuff and a solid brush too ..and don't sleep in the room that the thing is curing in, the "outgassing" smell is a mix of gases / vapours in "the styrene family" ..and is bad for you..as in very bad for you..best do it outside ..or wear a mask or have the room well ventilated while you are working ( windows open etc ) ..you can close the windows and leave the room 'til next day when you are done with each coat..when you go back in..open the windows and let the gas and vapours dissipate before continuing work..a bit of "background" heat in the room will speed up the "curing rate"..

*Anyone who remembers what it ( or similar ) is called where they are ( wherever they are ) ?

Cheers Mike, it’s one a few options I’ll certainly consider.

[chiefjason]

On 1/8/2018 at 10:29 AM, Earl Ash said:

Susan,

I got the legs here and made the top, most of us have done something similar.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/work-benches/components/legs-shelves/adjustable-height-27-7-8-to-35-3-8-leg-30-benches-2?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CjwKCAjwl_PNBRBcEiwA4pplRQqcFpkgOKaMOK8fHvox470Gqwgo1Hi4yN1u-9CXGKfqTCdNy4xjRRoCJBgQAvD_BwE

I've been putting off building a better table because I'm pretty mediocre at wood work.  Currently using an old wooden door on adjustable saw bucks.  But those legs may just jump start my building plans.  I really need a larger table and need it high enough to stand and work.  

[Double Daddy]

Not sure what your access to building materials is like in Ireland...but...here in the States, a SOLID core door blank makes a fine table top for various grades of work duty...they are available in several different widths, are smooth & flat, and, thanks to their solid internal construction, can be cut down the required size. I've used them on several projects, including my current workbenches. The current trending price for one in my area (36"x80") is about $70.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Masonite-36-in-x-80-in-Smooth-Flush-Hardboard-Solid-Core-Birch-Veneer-Composite-Interior-Door-Slab-104280/100064572

Be sure that it's not a hollow core version, mind you...they look very similar...one of those will never last under the strain of the pounding, clamping, etc...even if you manage to cut it and it not fall apart.

[SonderingSusan]

Hey everyone, 

 

i would just like to thank you all for your advice and input on this topic. I weighed up all the info you each had given and in the end decided one of the tables above, i also took your advice @RockyAussie, and asked that the table be made without the front  beam- which they kindly did for me. I am genuinely thrilled with my new table and really suffered the last two years working at a table not the right height but thats all made up for today. Just wanted to say thanks and show my bench !

 

[alpha2]

Well done, SS!