Saddle Stitching - Looks Good on the Backside

[superpacker]

I know the default recommendation on this forum is to consult Nigel's saddle stitch tutorial video. This is understandable as it's concise and easy to follow - I've used all of his suggestions, and get nice clean rows of stitching - my problem is that it is only the backside of the item that the signature "S" pattern will appear, whereas on the front,  just get essentially straight stitches. I would prefer those S's to be on the front side. I'm following his instructions to the "T" and can't figure out what is amiss. I will either use diamond chisels and punch all the way through or use the chisel as a pricking iron and then punch the holes with an awl. Either way doesn't seem to make a difference. Like I said, I'm getting nice stitching either way, but the back looks better than the front. Any ideas?

For reference, I'm frequently using .6 Tiger thread. the front piece of the item is on my left side, with stitch holes slanted towards me and im stitching towards me. 

Edited April 7, 2018 by superpacker

[DJole]

The first thing that comes to my mind is the "casting" of the thread. One needle goes through a hole, and then the other thread goes OVER or UNDER the first thread before the second needle is pushed through the hole. Depending on the direction of the slanted hole, going over or under should make that slanted stitch work. Maybe that's the problem?

[alpha2]

I stitch with the front side on the right, and holes slanted down towards me, stitching towards me. First needle is my right hand, through to the left side, second needle comes under the first, then back through to the right side, cast over, thread pulled down on the right side and either level or slightly up on the left side. Comes out nice on the front side, more straight on the back.

I'd suggest laying out a few rows of holes on a practice piece, label them for a couple inches at least with various ways of stitching, and see what looks best.

Jeff

[superpacker]

DJole, normally I’d say your spot on, but I’m meticulous at making sure I’m casting over the first thread. Alpha 2, in my mind this seems like a possible solution, so I’m gonna give this a  go.

[Bolt Vanderhuge]

Are you using a groover to cut out stitch lines? If so then stop. By grooving you are creating a narrow channel that will force the stitches towards the center of the groove. I mark the lines by creating a very shallow line on the surface of the leather. This lets the tread stay at the ends of the holes and gives the zigzag you already have in the back.

 

As for stitching/placement I have the front of the item on the right side not the left.

Edited April 8, 2018 by Bolt Vanderhuge

[niakulah]

7 hours ago, superpacker said:

I know the default recommendation on this forum is to consult Nigel's saddle stitch tutorial video. This is understandable as it's concise and easy to follow - I've used all of his suggestions, and get nice clean rows of stitching - my problem is that it is only the backside of the item that the signature "S" pattern will appear, whereas on the front,  just get essentially straight stitches. I would prefer those S's to be on the front side. I'm following his instructions to the "T" and can't figure out what is amiss. I will either use diamond chisels and punch all the way through or use the chisel as a pricking iron and then punch the holes with an awl. Either way doesn't seem to make a difference. Like I said, I'm getting nice stitching either way, but the back looks better than the front. Any ideas?

For reference, I'm frequently using .6 Tiger thread. the front piece of the item is on my left side, with stitch holes slanted towards me and im stitching towards me. 

Nigel does have a paid Vimeo channel where he has a video explaining how to get a nice slant on both sides. Lots of other useful videos as well.

 

But since you want just the front to be nice, wouldn't the easiest way be to simply swap the leather around?

 

[Tugadude]

1 hour ago, niakulah said:

Nigel does have a paid Vimeo channel where he has a video explaining how to get a nice slant on both sides. Lots of other useful videos as well.

 

But since you want just the front to be nice, wouldn't the easiest way be to simply swap the leather around?

 

Not necessarily going to work because now the holes are oriented the wrong way.  If they were sloping towards you, switching sides makes them slope away from you.  Bolt brought up a good point regarding a groover.  Too deep of a hole will force the stitch to flatten out while on the opposite  side, the stitch is free to do what it wants.  The dynamics of the angled stitch are pretty simple.  The thread needs to be forced to the top of the hole and run downwards to the bottom of the next hole.  Tricky part is getting the thread to cooperate and do it consistently!

[niakulah]

1 hour ago, Tugadude said:

Not necessarily going to work because now the holes are oriented the wrong way.  If they were sloping towards you, switching sides makes them slope away from you.  Bolt brought up a good point regarding a groover.  Too deep of a hole will force the stitch to flatten out while on the opposite  side, the stitch is free to do what it wants.  The dynamics of the angled stitch are pretty simple.  The thread needs to be forced to the top of the hole and run downwards to the bottom of the next hole.  Tricky part is getting the thread to cooperate and do it consistently!

Hmmm....you're probably right. Which got me thinking how I managed to do just that.

 

I probably flipped it around and upside down as well to maintain the hole orientation. Bearing in mind that this was during my beginner days when I didn't have a pony or any other sort of clamp to get in the way. Wait that doesn't make sense. Scratch that.

 

Nowadays, the way I stitch I can pretty much go in any direction, I just change the way I cross my needles (over or under) and which hand goes in first.

 

Edited April 8, 2018 by niakulah

[stormcrow]

I think the following was my first post on the forum Saddle Stitch but it may be of some help to you.

I was asking about using right needle priority in the post but the photos I attached were using left hand priority as described in Nigels video and I believe it is that method you are using.

I get a good slant on the left side using this method and the right side is not as good as you will see.

[Tugadude]

I think it is always worthwhile to grab a piece of scrap and practice different techniques.  There is a recipe that works for most folks most of the time, but there are combinations that require experimentation.  Combinations of leather type and thickness, thread, irons, all have an effect on the outcome.