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Posted (edited)

First post here, but I read half forum by now it seems :)

Here is my background. I'm into cars, currently restoring older BMW. Goal is to DIY everything so it's not about time/money but about doing it myself. Project is to recover seats in leather. I did read and watch as much as possible on subject. Seats actually pretty simple because they consist of 7 smaller parts. 4 bolsters, 2 pads and headrest.

Anyway.. My dilemma right now is which machine to get. Primarily between used and new. Here is my thoughts, let me know what you think:

1. There is many different kinds of machines which will do. All with their specifics. Do I really want to tinker with machine? Probably no. Do I want solid thing which is not made in China with parts available in future? Probably yes. Do I like to tinker and learn about things? Yes. Is this (tinkering/restoring/adjusting old machine) part of this project? Probably no.

2. Seeing how it's done (sewing) I will definitely need servo motor and will definitely sew on very slow rpms. Manual lubrication is probably what I want.

3. This is just a hobby. Most likely I will keep machine for a year at most. Probably going to sell it once it's all done. Don't want to spend too much but don't want to be "limited" as I'm new to all this and bad/weak machine will make things even worse. If it becomes long-term hobby I can afford good machine, just no point in spending money now. After reading I think $1k is a good pricepoint.

4. Here in STL there is nothing I see local as far as good used. Prices getting close to $1k for ooold stuff and adding motor, tweaking, etc will get me to the price of new Consew P1206RB. Seems like this machine will do more than what I need, got all features but only concern is lubrication at low speeds.

 

Questions:

1. What do you think about all this? What machine should I look for? How is resale for P1206RB?

2. How much should I budget for accessories? It's for auto upholstery, wonder what needle I need, anything else?

 

Thanks a alot!

Edited by katit
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Posted

Another con for P1206RB (or not?) is stich of 7mm max. When I researched this it seems like actual stitch smaller with thicker materials, so 7mm can become 5mm. Is that true? Where would I need stiches more than 5-7mm?

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Posted

 7mm length is huge. You would never need to go that long on leathercraft projects.

The reason SPI is shorter on thick material is because of the compound feed walking foot design. The needle is pendulous, so the higher up, the shorter the stroke.

 

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Posted

As a guide, 5mm stitch length is about 5 stitches per inch (25.4mm). That is the ideal stitch length for upholstery, although a longer 6mm would do on some non-critical seams. Anything longer that 4 per inch is inefficient for seat covers.

As for resale value of the P-1206R, it is too new to have a known value. This machine sells for about a thousand dollars new. Used one year, it might fetch $500 or $600.

The pump in this machine is more efficient than on high speed straight stitch machines.

Posted IMHO, by Wiz

My current crop of sewing machines:

Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.

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Posted
17 minutes ago, Wizcrafts said:

As a guide, 5mm stitch length is about 5 stitches per inch (25.4mm). That is the ideal stitch length for upholstery, although a longer 6mm would do on some non-critical seams. Anything longer that 4 per inch is inefficient for seat covers.

As for resale value of the P-1206R, it is too new to have a known value. This machine sells for about a thousand dollars new. Used one year, it might fetch $500 or $600.

The pump in this machine is more efficient than on high speed straight stitch machines.

I was thinking about stitch size for different purposes. For example, wrapping steering wheel machine can be used to make holes before manual-stitch. But thats about 5mm. Maybe when making decorative seams it can be more than 5mm? I don't know, I was just curious where bigger stitches used.

 

Used price of $500-600 sounds great, I would pay it right now :) But it's always like this, there is none around and when I'm ready to sell mine it will be 500-600.. From price standpoint maybe it is better to find good used machine even if it's same price. Most likely it will cost the same in a year. I'm not really good at finding deals though..

What about 206RB-5? Would it hold value better? It is roughtly $300 more but if I'm going to loose less - it might be a better deal..

Posted (edited)

Here is a link to CL ad for a barely used 206rb-5 for $700. I know it is not in your area, but I show it as an example that deals can be found. My experience is that good deals are gone quickly. Sometimes they are sold less than an hour and the ads are deleted. If you want to find a good machine at a good price, determine all the Craigslist locations that you are willing to drive to and check several times every day. Search separately for 'sewing machines', 'consew', 'juki' and 'industrial machine'. Not everyone puts 'sewing machine' in the titles. I have found some fantastic deals this way.

https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/tls/d/consew-206rb-5-walking-foot/6641688818.html

 

update: here is a machine in your area, found with a search for 'consew'.

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/bfs/d/rebuilt-consew-255rb-1/6608441800.html

 

Edited by JJN
update

Ferdco Juki Pro-2000, Juki DNU-1541S, LS-1341, LU-563, DLN-9010A-SH, MO-6714S,  Consew 206RB, 206RB-1, Chandler/Bernina 217 6mm w/Cam Reader, Brother LT2-B842-5

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Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, JJN said:

update: here is a machine in your area, found with a search for 'consew'.

https://stlouis.craigslist.org/bfs/d/rebuilt-consew-255rb-1/6608441800.html

 

It's about as much as new 1206 and not sure about this model features, 255rb vs 206rb? Another thing is that machine have clutch and I will have to go about replacing it right away bringing price up even more.. Plus it's couple hours of driving and seems like this is a dealer Nick-O sewing(will charge sales tax :) )

 

This one is close by, seller will post pics later, It is a 211 G 156

Walking foot with reverse and set up to sew leather and other thick heavy materials

But I think I do need reverse on machine and seems like old Singers don't have it?

 

Edited by katit
Posted

Hi Katit,

Another consideration maybe table mounting a portable machine like the Reliable Barracuda or Techsew 611 that are fairly inexpensive walking foot machines that probably would do the job for about $500 US. If you don't like it or the hobby and sell it after a year you would probably get half the purchase price back.

My thoughts,

kgg

Juki DNU - 1541S, Juki DU - 1181N, Singer 29K - 71(1949), Chinese Patcher (Tinkers Delight), Warlock TSC-441, Techsew 2750 Pro, Consew DCS-S4 Skiver

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Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, katit said:

 

But I think I do need reverse on machine and seems like old Singers don't have it?

 

Depends on the model. My 211G166 has reverse. The Seiko 8DBxxx machines fall into the same category you are looking at and have reverse, as do many of the Pfaffs.

You may be creating a problem for yourself. If you definitely don't want to have to spend time fiddling with a machine then you have no option but to buy new. If you aren't in a hurry then something will likely turn up used eventually, that will suit your needs, but the odds that you will have to do some sort of work on it are probably pretty high. On the other hand, if you intend re-selling once you've finished your losses, if any, will be minimal re-selling a used machine.

Edited by dikman

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

Posted

Obviously, the only proper thing to do is to get a high-end made-in-Germany sewing machine of roughly the same vintage as the BMW you're restoring ;)

For example, I have a Pfaff 545 H4 N10 that I bought in, of all places, St. Louis when I attended a car club event about two years ago. The H4 means it has very high foot lift, the N10 means it can make 10mm long stitches. It wasn't working when I got it, but it's a big hunk of buttery smoothness now. The only fly in the ointment, so to speak, is that in exchange for the 10mm stitch length you give up reverse. But lack of reverse is not a show stopper for a determined seamster. YouTuber and automotive upholstery guru Cechaflo uses machine that have reverse, but he usually locks his stitches manually. I could be talked into selling the machine. 

The nice thing about high-end vintage sewing machine originals is that they hold their value very well. You can buy a nice vintage Pfaff or Durkopp Adler now and sell it again for about the same in a year or two, if you take good care of it. It really makes no material difference whether the machine is 30 or 32 years old.

 

 

Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" )

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