Members zuludog Posted October 5, 2018 Members Report Posted October 5, 2018 I've just had a look at Crimson Hides website; just Search Google Made up awls are a bit expensive at $95 Singapore = $68 USA = £52 presumably as the hafts are carefully shaped to fit your hand But the blades alone are more reasonable at $20 Singapore = $15 USA = £11, so you could fit a blade to your own handle these prices are before shipping and any import duty Quote
Members Stetson912 Posted October 6, 2018 Members Report Posted October 6, 2018 I was just going to suggest that zuludog! Barry King, leather wranglers, chrimson hide, and I'm sure many more offer awl blades sold separately. The Barry King and most certainly the leather wranglers would be sharp when you get them. I wish I could see your efforts and how hard it is for you to get the awl through. Something just doesn't add up for me :/ I too use an Osborne awl. And have no problems with it. Quote
Members battlemunky Posted October 6, 2018 Members Report Posted October 6, 2018 Yeah, it HAS to be a sharpness issue. My awls were very difficult to get through the leather before I worked on them for way longer than I ever would've thought necessary. As much time as I've spent sharpening them, there shouldn't be much left of them.... What grit is your stone @BillinTR? I start at 1500 grit and stop with fiber optic polishing film, then I strop. Took forrrreevvvvvveeerrrrrr but now they can split atoms. Quote
Members billybopp Posted October 6, 2018 Members Report Posted October 6, 2018 You might try an awl blade from Barry King ($30) or LeatherWranglers($25). The Leatherwranglers blade is Osborne, but will come profiled an sharpened, and might serve as a reference for your own blade profile and sharpness! A truly sharp awl blade will go through well over 1/2 of stacked leather without all that much effort. It'll also go right through the backside and into your finger almost without feeling it. :D - Bill Quote
Members ScoobyNewbie Posted October 6, 2018 Members Report Posted October 6, 2018 I love my eggs! They fit my palm almost perfectly. Even the fid seems to go through very well.i actually used it to open sewing holes instead of chisels. But my leather is very thin and light. But I seem to get a good pressure on the heel of my hand, where they sit. I don’t have to have the handle floating in my palm or off to the side like the long handles. I’ve heard of burrles, that’s a knot hole in wood, what’s a ferrule? Quote
Members battlemunky Posted October 6, 2018 Members Report Posted October 6, 2018 A ferrule is the little metal neck, usually brass, that is clamped onto the handle to more securly hold the blade of something in. Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted October 6, 2018 Contributing Member Report Posted October 6, 2018 A ferrule is the metal band which goes around a wooden handle just where an awl or chisel blade fits into the wood. Its to prevent the wood splitting Quote Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Members zuludog Posted October 6, 2018 Members Report Posted October 6, 2018 I have two awls - one from Bowstock, I think, which has a narrow blade, about 2mm, and I got a blade only from John James and mounted it in my own haft; this is the more usual wider size at about 3,5mm They both needed to be shaped & sharpened, which took ages, especially the JJ. I used a medium and a fine oilstone, then a strop, spreading the work over 3 afternoons. Trying to do the work in one go would be tiring and probably not produce as good results I find I like the narrow awl. I tried Tandy's Craftool Pro Stitching Awl 83020 in their shop a while ago, and have just bought one when they had it on offer at half price It would be interesting to try a Japanese awl, especially the Craft Sha I like to think I'm fairly good at sharpening, but recently I tried the Scary Sharpening System - find it on Google and YouTube, and I'm impressed. I sharpened a head knife and an awl blade very well, easily, and quickly. I'll report on that soon in the Sharpening section Quote
Members chrisash Posted October 6, 2018 Members Report Posted October 6, 2018 I just wonder if the Billin has tried a selection of veg tan or just one piece of very old dryed up leather Quote Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me
Moderator immiketoo Posted October 6, 2018 Moderator Report Posted October 6, 2018 I have read and re-read that book many times. I still do it differently. I mark my holes with a stitch wheel. Then I poke all my holes with the leather piece flat on the surface using a piece of leather and a cutting board to stop my awl from going through to the table. I have become pretty good at keeping it aligned properly, and it works for me. Then, when I go to the stitching horse, all I need to do is stitch, although sometimes I do keep the awl in my hand in case theres a difficult hole. I know it's not traditional and I don't care. It was how I was able to get consistent, good looking stitches on my work. Now, I have tried a lot of awls by a lot of makers, and I finally found one that is exceptional. It's not fancy, but it does the trick. Sharp, but not TOO sharp. One maker makes them so sharp they cut the leather and that makes for ugly stitching. Sure, it goes through a mile of leather with ease, but the holes are ugly. So, the one I have been using and will likely add another one or two is made by LederLouis in Switzerland. He ships to the states and they are well worth the money. He makes prepared blades that will fit existing hafts and he makes finished awls with very plain handles.https://shop.leder-louis.ch/product/Diamond-awl-ready-to-use-45-mm-S/1595 Here's some stitching I was able to do using the methods described above and with this awl. Hope this helps. Just a different approach. Quote Learnleather.com
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