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Posted

That looks like a nice challenge . Just ' ripe ' for restoration   :) But I can't see any reverse,   but I can see a chainsaw ha ha  :)

A good clean and large bottle of machine oil .   You could get a new  ' Singer ' decal  if you're concerned about losing it.  

Love to see this one up and running soon...... and maybe the chain saw too eh? 

HS 

 

' I have a very gweat friend in Wome called Biggus Dickus,

He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '  :rofl:

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Posted

I going to spend Wednesday cleaning it the best I can and hooking a new servo to it. I will post updates as i work. 

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Posted

After removing all bits externally that can be removed, I use a wire brush and kerosene to degrease and remove rust if heavily affected, otherwise turps and stiff brush. I “rinse” internal parts with WD40, wipe clean, then use Singer oil to lubricate again and bearing grease where applicable.

I also slip a very thin tool (knife, screwdriver) behind the model and Singer badge on the body and gently, evenly, prise them off along with the pins. Take your time, you don’t want to kink them or rip the plates off without the pins. The pins CAN be removed from the inside with magical hands and tools, none of which I have. 

The machine looks so much nicer when repainted with everything removed first. Once cleaned, primed, repainted and with new decals in place (Keelers USA, approximately $20 Australian) I use a two-pack polyethylene clear coat, very sparsely, to keep the decals intact and provide a hard wearing barrier. It doesn’t yellow with age, unlike two-pack epoxy resin. But resin is tougher, so if yellowing isn’t going to be noticeable use that.

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Posted

I should have added this before. Something in the old Singer paint (dust when you sand), the cleaning chemicals, or the paint/resin applications causes severe allergies if contact with my skin occurs. So gloves, mask, and complete coverall clothing is a must. Check out my face when this happens. 

0E8FE77D-F1B6-47D1-A6E9-40EE2AEE76E5.jpeg

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A lot old machines  used to use  nitrocellulose lacquers they are very toxic, and have in fact been outlawed for use as an automotive finish

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Posted

That's quite a reaction, Mizzy!:blink:

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

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Posted

The top left one is very scary Mizzy:rolleyes2:

Mi omputer is ot ood at speeling , it's not me

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Posted (edited)

Dried old oil and dirt often looks like rust. Try a hot water and washing soda solution - you will be surprised how much gunk is coming off. Submerge the whole machine and use some brushes for cleaning the mechanics. If you have a compressor you can use a spray / wash gun to wash out the inside of the machine with this solution. Long bottle brushes can help cleaning the machine inside. You can also use kerosene / diesel or paint thinner - however - be careful when using inflammable fluids in the wash gun. It however is very effective but it also causes fumes you better do not inhale. BUT - it is effective - at least for what I´m doing.

Depending on the overall condition my 1st step often is the washing soda solution followed by paint thinner. The paint thinner will wash out the water and soda remains and when its all dried I oil the machine.

Always wear proper safety equipment!

 

EDIT:

I just recently discovered this stuff but haven´t tested it yet.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Koch-Chemie-Green-Universal-Cleaner/dp/B011OKX44S

Edited by Constabulary

~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~

Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2

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Posted

If you're using a 2 part polyurethane paint / clear coat, that could be the irritation problem right there. Are you spraying it?

The isocyanate in that stuff is extremely toxic - People who use it professionally only work with full face respirator (with appropriate filter cartridges), and a Tyvek "moon suit", at a minimum - Supplied air is better / preferred.

Please be careful - It's nothing to fool with.

The model number giveth, and the subclass taketh away ......... Sometimes

Posted (edited)

What trash said..Use the right protective gear..and a mask that flows clean outside air down over your face and away from your eyes , nose and mouth..

I used to use large amounts of two pack polyurethanes and expoxies, acrylics, polyesters*..You can die from exposure to some of the catalisers and the vapours that they give off when curing..Poisoned myself twice..You breath, but your blood cells are not taking up the oxygen, so you suffocate..it is like being up a mountain with no oxygen, or skydiving from alooooong way up and trying to breath at the top when you jump out.

 

Your reaction looks like you get some kind of histamine "shock"..keep strong anti-histamines around you in case it happens again..if your throat reacts like  that, and you have no way to stop the reaction very fast..you'll not be around to tell anyone about it..

 

The respirator cartridges in the full face masks are OK, but..when they are no longer working ( they get saturated, and they do not protect against all vapours ) they give no warning..so you can continue to use them without realising that they are doing nothing, until it is too late..

 

*I had a Custom painting and Trompe l'oeil business for years, cars, bikes, boats, Circus trailers, Fairground attractions etc..sometimes was spraying two pack clear for 8 hours without even a "go pee" break..

Edited by mikesc

"Don't you know that women are the only works of Art" .. ( Don Henley and "some French painter in a field" )

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