YinTx Report post Posted July 18, 2019 Ok, so this is a new one on me. I have a side of Hermann Oak veg tan, and when I cut a strap off of it, the strap immediately bends, and towards the butt section, not the shoulder. I have included a photo. The starting line is straight, and I have cut it with a plough gauge. The strip then curls sideways. What can I do about this??!? YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted July 18, 2019 You are releasing the tension in the stretched leather. The hide has been stretched during tanning and drying. The whole hide is in tension, a different amount in different directions. Without the pull of the rest of the hide the cut strip is returning to where it wants be naturally A belt with a curve in it is actually good. I cut belt straps straight, but after some time of wearing they take on a curve, especially on the bit on the back. You could wet the leather and hang it up to dry with a weight on the end to pull in downwards Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted July 18, 2019 Thanks for the info. I was kinda worried about that, but hoping maybe it was something I had done and not an issue with the side. bah. YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MarkCdub Report post Posted July 18, 2019 Be sure and let us know what you do to straighten it and how it turns out. Good luck! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted July 18, 2019 if the width is consistent, don't worry about it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeRock Report post Posted July 19, 2019 I like the curve in human belts, it matches the cone shape of the body above the hips. In harnesses for horses, the strain takes the curve out eventually......so does the sweat help too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handstitched Report post Posted July 19, 2019 Well, this is something new I've just learnt . I wouldn't have thought of that . Your plough gauge reminds me that I need to invest in a good quality gauge. The old wooden strap cutters are fine for up to 4mm , but trying to cut 5 - 5.5mm , they do struggle and I have broken ( new) blades, and the adjustments can move mid-way through a cut if I don't tighten the screw enough ...and my arm is a little sore afterwards . HS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wizard of tragacanth Report post Posted July 19, 2019 YinTX, I consider that bend a stroke of luck. I would like to have this on all of my belts. It makes for a more natural fit, right out of the box. Old belts eventually assume this shape but not as elegantly, because they have to scrunch up on the top edge and stretch on the lower one, in order to accomplish this. Years ago, I paid extra to have a custom belt cut on a curve, made for me... back before I go into leather work. It was made by Erik Little of Rafter L, leather, Buffalo Wyoming. He is, or was, a member on this forum, I believe. He also introduced me to the idea of seven holes, spaced 3/4" apart, rather than the traditional 5 holes, spaced at 1". It was a great belt, but I make my own now! nick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted July 20, 2019 On 7/18/2019 at 5:06 PM, MarkCdub said: Be sure and let us know what you do to straighten it and how it turns out. Good luck! I used an oil/dye mixture, then lightly pulled it to straighten it out a bit. On 7/18/2019 at 6:03 PM, JLSleather said: if the width is consistent, don't worry about it. It is, my concern is what the customer might think, seeing as how most are accustomed to purchasing not crooked leather belts... 14 hours ago, Handstitched said: Your plough gauge reminds me that I need to invest in a good quality gauge. I have an old Blanchard that I haven't used yet and plan to sell if you are interested... 8 hours ago, wizard of tragacanth said: Old belts eventually assume this shape but not as elegantly, because they have to scrunch up on the top edge and stretch on the lower one, in order to accomplish this. Yep, and if it doesn't come out straight, I may have to convince my customer of that, or buy another side. Bah. YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted July 20, 2019 I get that a lot with croc. See picture. If you get a table top and hold down firmly with one hand are reef sideways several times working your way along the length it should come good. If needed break the grain some by running through your hands so that the top and bottom are being stretched at the same time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted July 20, 2019 Just out interest how much is croc in Aus Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted July 20, 2019 1 hour ago, chrisash said: Just out interest how much is croc in Aus If you can buy it at all (very rare) It would be around $26 au. a cm which is measured across the belly width taken at the 3rd scoot down from the front legs. A good second grade will be around $1000au ish. I mostly make the products from skins supplied by the $$$$$$ people. Most own the crocodile farms and sell me a little occasionally for goodwill I guess. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisash Report post Posted July 20, 2019 Thanks, but not really knowing a croc or how it's measured, what does that equate to in say Square Foot Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
YinTx Report post Posted July 20, 2019 8 hours ago, RockyAussie said: I get that a lot with croc. Wow I wouldn't have guessed that! I would have panicked the first time that happened with something as expensive as croc. Thanks for the tip on straightening. YinTx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted July 20, 2019 I think the price of Croc per sq ft is variable with the width and to a degree the length*, ( which is I think what Brian is referring to ) ..the wider the skin, the bigger the Croc, the larger the pieces that one can use from the same skin, the larger the items that one can make, the more expensive the skin / piece. *IME most ( if not all ) "exotics" are priced higher per sq ft as the usable area of the skin / piece gets larger . Come to think of it, even in non exotics, the larger the usable area of the skin or the piece, the more expensive per sq ft it is.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fredk Report post Posted July 20, 2019 12 hours ago, YinTx said: . . . It is, my concern is what the customer might think, seeing as how most are accustomed to purchasing not crooked leather belts... . . . Yep, and if it doesn't come out straight, I may have to convince my customer of that, or buy another side. Bah. . . . a. make it a feature; if the client is any ways a bit overweight a curved belt will be more comfortable on (him). If (he) is doubtful, let him wear it for a while. He'll not return it b. I think ~ if you wet/dampen the leather and let it dry slowly and naturally a couple of times that will ease the tension in it and the next belt straps will cut straight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockyAussie Report post Posted July 21, 2019 14 hours ago, chrisash said: Thanks, but not really knowing a croc or how it's measured, what does that equate to in say Square Foot What @mikesc said is correct and I cant really give you an easy answer without practically writing a book on the subject. The width of the belly will generally give you an estimate of the length of the crocodile (average around 5'long 38cm across the belly) They don't run them through the normal measuring machines and therefore I would hazard a guess that that may be about 4 sq'. The pricing gets higher as the skin gets wider due to extra length but a second grade skin may be worth 1/2 of the value of a first grade to the farm etc. The big fashion houses that own most of the farms only want 1st grade and where I come in is converting the 2nd and 3rd grade skins into sellable products as well. The lesser grade skins are still 1st grade quality except for scratches and holes in one or 2 of the quarters of the belly. Ist grade is needed for top grade large panel handbags. I do get some 1st grades but the majority is the lesser grade skins but as to what they cost is not something that I usually need to know about that much. Sorry that I cant make it any clearer than that. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robs456 Report post Posted July 22, 2019 1. Went to Lineapelle Milano. 2. Talked to the croc/gator/lizard companies. 3. Said "Thanks, I'll get back to you". 4. Never got back to them. Soo expensive compared to the local cow... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dougfergy Report post Posted July 25, 2019 Couldn't you just do the math and figure out by the strap you already cut, how much curve the strap is going to have and build a curve into your strap in the opposite direction when you cut which will be straight once the strap is cut and the tension is released? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesc Report post Posted July 25, 2019 (edited) The skin came from a living animal, the tension in a tanned skin is not the same all over..varies all over it. Couldn't you just do the math and figure out by the strap you already cut, how much curve the strap is going to have and build a curve into your strap in the opposite direction when you cut which will be straight once the strap is cut and the tension is released? You first ;) ..and as my maths teachers used to say waaaaaay back .."don't forget to show your working out" :) Edited July 25, 2019 by mikesc Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
