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Simmental

Chicago Screws - Idiot Question

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Evening all,

An idiots question about chicago screws. 

I would like to use them to hold the bit onto cheek pieces of a bridle, so they want to sit flush to prevent any irritation to my horse.

Question is; if I am working with 3.5-4mm leather obviously doubled over makes 7-8mm thickness.

Does this mean I need an 8mm stem on the screw, or do I want a slightly smaller one to prevent it riding proud of the leather?

Thanks everone.

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3 minutes ago, Simmental said:

Does this mean I need an 8mm stem on the screw, or do I want a slightly smaller one to prevent it riding proud of the leather?

Leather thickness varies, so you will want to order a range of sizes, just in case. 

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23 minutes ago, Simmental said:

Question is; if I am working with 3.5-4mm leather obviously doubled over makes 7-8mm thickness.

Does this mean I need an 8mm stem on the screw, or do I want a slightly smaller one to prevent it riding proud of the leather?

You want it tight, compress the leather somewhat.

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I know nothing about horse tack but a chicago screw has a bit of bulk to it--I think(?).  If you recess it then the leather may be too thin.  Why not a hand peened copper rivet.  One side will be flush.

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Chicago screws can "undo" themselves at times. If you do go that route you might want to put a drop of Loctite down.

Regards,

Arturo

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#222 loctite Or learn how to set saddlers rivets. 
Harry Rogers on Youtube has the proper accent and technique for you. 

 

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Can i ask what style of Bridle is it English or Western, if English why do you want to use this method  to attach the bit to the cheek pieces. I have only ever used Chicago screws on American style racing tack and that was on the bit end of the reins which had been re-enforced with a metal insert for safety just in case the Chicago screws failed which they had that's why i had to replace (have to say bridles were not made by me) just done the repair yes i used thread lock, did not come back for for same repair.  They don't protrude too much so highly unlikely to chafe your horses cheek if you are wanting a easy method to change the bit maybe better to have a buckle billet if English style tack.

On setting saddlers copper rivets once you have snipped the excess amount off when using the doming part of the rivet setter as you strike it keep turning it gives a better finish, you don't have to but after i have finish with the setter i give one tap on the rivet.

Hope this helps

JCUK 

 

 

Edited by jcuk

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Thanks for the replies everyone.

JCUK, yes - its a western style bridle rather than an english, and yes its the end of the cheek pieces to attach the bit. If you have any other suggestions I'd be happy to hear it (I think buckle billets may be too bulky). Would Sam Brown studs be a suitable option?

Thanks

 

Edited by Simmental

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Would not go down the copper rivet route, can be a pain in the rear end to remove at times. Here is a site showing the Chicago screw method and more methods such as using a Concho which i believe is the same as a Chicago screw method, someone on here will correct me here if i am wrong- on that i am sure, another way is to tie it which is also shown not quite sure how this method is achieved but looks pretty straight forward but again hopefully some of the western style tack makers on here can steer you right on that.

https://western-saddler.co.uk/collections/headstalls

Hope this helps

JCUK  

P.S. Thinking on i did repair one many moons cant remember how it was tied may have a play in my workshop tomorrow

Edited by jcuk

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1 hour ago, jcuk said:

Here is a site showing the Chicago screw method and more methods such as using a Concho which i believe is the same as a Chicago screw method, someone on here will correct me here if i am wrong- on that i am sure, another way is to tie it which is also shown not quite sure how this method is achieved but looks pretty straight forward but again hopefully some of the western style tack makers on here can steer you right on that.

https://western-saddler.co.uk/collections/headstalls

Hope this helps

JCUK  

P.S. Thinking on i did repair one many moons cant remember how it was tied may have a play in my workshop tomorrow

I'm in agreement with JCUK regarding the rivet and he's correct about the concho. It's just a Chicago screw with lipstick on it.  I've used the "tie" method regularly. Two holes, thong and bleed knots. You want to check the soundness of the thong and knots regularly.

Regards,

Arturo

Edited by Arturomex

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Thanks gents,

Some of the bridles I used when I worked in africa were tied. Arturo, am I right in thinking the holes just need to be about 1/2in apart?

Thanks

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Yes, more or less. I usually go about 5/8 of an inch from hole edge to hole edge.

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