Members Akers Posted April 10, 2021 Members Report Posted April 10, 2021 Need help from experienced holster makers. If this has been covered before, sorry I couldn't find it, I might have looked over it. How do you put the retention in the trigger area and ejection port without getting that burnished look and the ''smashed'' look, I can't seem to get the crisp "neat" look. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I used herman oak leather. I stained it first, then wet formed it. I used the round end of my burnhing stick, I've tried the bone folders, and several different pear shaders and nothing seams to work for me. Everything I've tried also puts rubbed marks on the leather, how do I keep it from doing that. I've watched several guys on youtube used vacuum pumps and bags to wet form and that's how I did this one, but still get rub marks through the plastic. Thanks. Quote
Members Rahere Posted April 12, 2021 Members Report Posted April 12, 2021 Patience on the port, there's no point in shredding the leather. Keep coming back to it, damping and forming it closer. You might need to thicken up the trigger guard with tape, before doing the same.. It's more the undercut on the barrel causing the issue here, though. You have a clear image of what you want, now just make it happen. Have faith! Quote
Members chiefjason Posted April 14, 2021 Members Report Posted April 14, 2021 It's a hand made holster. There will be some tool marks. Mold before dying. Leather takes to boning better. Case the holster before molding. Wet but not too wet. Too wet does not hold the molding. If the marks bother you, you can usually lightly burnish them out at the end. Quote
Members Dwight Posted April 14, 2021 Members Report Posted April 14, 2021 Well . . . I use my fingers . . . and I do all the forming, etc . . . before I dye. Sometimes the tool marks will kinda "lift up" when I do the dying . . . if not . . . I just live with them . . . OR . . . make sure I add another coat of Resolene so the overall appearance is as bright and shiny one place as it is the others. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted April 14, 2021 Contributing Member Report Posted April 14, 2021 Do the heaviest molding with the leather VERY wet. As it dries on the surface, tooling will cause darker "burnishing' (if you do it wet, it will not later darken just because the leather is drying). Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Akers Posted April 16, 2021 Author Members Report Posted April 16, 2021 Thanks everyone for the tips, I'll give them a try. Quote
Members Scootch Posted April 18, 2021 Members Report Posted April 18, 2021 What weight leather are you using?Thinner leather will give you finer detail. Scootch Quote
CFM Frodo Posted April 18, 2021 CFM Report Posted April 18, 2021 Usa a vacuum pack machine. Quote Singer 66, Chi Chi Patcher, Rex 26-188, singer 29k62 , 2-needles D.C.F.M
Members Akers Posted April 19, 2021 Author Members Report Posted April 19, 2021 Scootch, I used 5-6 oz herman oak Frodo, thanks. Quote
Members Rahere Posted April 19, 2021 Members Report Posted April 19, 2021 That's great for the back plate, too thick to mold. Try 3-4oz. Quote
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