HELP with thick leather stitches

[Coffeebean2]

Hi. I’ve seen all the tutorials and read some of the posts on stitching, and have hand stitched several holsters. But now I’m getting ready to start on my thickest project. A cross draw holster for a 1847 Colt Walker. It’s 4.4 mm thick or 11-12. Plus a welt at the trigger area. How in the blazes do I get an awl through all of that? Thanks for all your help.

[LatigoAmigo]

1 hour ago, Coffeebean2 said:

How in the blazes do I get an awl through all of that? Thanks for all your help.

A picture would help.

[Tugadude]

Perhaps you don’t.  Make holes in one layer, then apply the welt and extend the holes through the welt.  Then apply the other side over the welt and then pierce through the whole assembly.  Takes care, but it can be done.  Other options include using a drill press and awl, or drilling through the project with a drill bit.  Not my preference, but some favor it.

[AzShooter]

When I do it with that thick of a holster I lay out my pattern and mark where I start and stop with my stitching.  I then transfer that to the holster and use my chisel to go through the first layer.  I then take the pattern and do the same for the welt and then the other side of the holster.  

Your holes will line up nicely.  On a number of my competition holsters I use 7-8 ounce leather with a lining of the same stuff.  They are thick and my technique has worked for me for many years.

I think if you give it a try you will like the outcome.

[Coffeebean2]

Thanks guys. AzShooter, I will try your map method.  

[paloma]

9 hours ago, Coffeebean2 said:

Hi. I’ve seen all the tutorials and read some of the posts on stitching, and have hand stitched several holsters. But now I’m getting ready to start on my thickest project. A cross draw holster for a 1847 Colt Walker. It’s 4.4 mm thick or 11-12. Plus a welt at the trigger area. How in the blazes do I get an awl through all of that? Thanks for all your help.

with a good, sharp awl it seems like child's play to me. I've pierced much thicker with no problem.

 

Edited June 7, 2021 by paloma

[battlemunky]

Yeah, I've done 16 oz and even some thicker a few times. Be steady, use a clam/pony, go slow and pay attention to the angle through the leather, ensure your awl is sharp, and you should be ok. Make a few thick scraps to gain some confidence. It is completely possible. Making the holes will be easier than poking the needle back through the hole in my experience.

Edited June 7, 2021 by battlemunky

[chuck123wapati]

i chisel the top piece and the bottom piece together, then glue the welt on the top piece chisel through it then useing brass brads along the stitches about every inch or inch and a half line up and glue the bottom to the welt. After that i clean up the holes as i stitch with my awl.

[JohnnyLongpants]

Buy a piece of cork that is an inch thick or better.  I bought a 12x24" piece that was 1/2" thick and glued two layers together.

Mark/punch your holes on the outermost layers.  Then, glue the inner layers except the innermost layer to the outer layer.  Lay those out flat on the cork and use your awl to push a hole through all the layers.  Do thesame thing to the innermost layer--lay it on cork and use awl to push awl straight through.

Then, apply adhesive to the innermost layer and next layer up.  Don't press it together.  Start sewing.  You have a needle poking through 2-3 layers through an existing hole, and the other needle coming in through 1 layer with the holes premade.  As you stitch awl-free, align the edges.

I suggest cutting each layer slightly large in order to be able to cut or sand the excess off when done sewing.

Yes, a master could sew through this thickness on one fell swoop with just an awl and have the back look as good as the front.  A $4k sewing machine could too.  But if you dont have 10+ years to master awl work or 4k to spend on a machine, this will get you very nice results.  It's just a little slower, unless you compare it to 10 years.

[Frodo]

On 6/6/2021 at 9:12 PM, Coffeebean2 said:

Hi. I’ve seen all the tutorials and read some of the posts on stitching, and have hand stitched several holsters. But now I’m getting ready to start on my thickest project. A cross draw holster for a 1847 Colt Walker. It’s 4.4 mm thick or 11-12. Plus a welt at the trigger area. How in the blazes do I get an awl through all of that? Thanks for all your help.

You dont. toss that awl out the window.   

Here is 3 pieces of 9oz veg tan.  run a stitch grove on each piece

using your chisel. hang one tine off the leather as shown,  this will ensure you are starting out at the same spot on each piece of leather

glue your peices   As you glue the pieces. insert a needle every couple of inches, this will help you keep everything lined up . then sew them.  all  pieces are lined up if you did it correctly

 

Edited July 30, 2021 by Frodo

[zuludog]

I have never made a holster, and probably never will, but I have made knife sheaths and axe covers, which are of similar construction

The leather used is 3 to 4 mm thick, so the combined thickness of the front, back, and the welt will be about 10 to 12 mm; this is the method I use

Cut out the pieces for the sheath, including the welt.........glue the pieces together with contact cement and trim the edges

Mark the line of stitching on the front & back, using dividers set to 4 or 5 mm

Use a stitching chisel with 4 to 5 mm spaced prongs to make holes along the line of stitching. Typically a stitching chisel will only penetrate up to about 7 mm thickness

Transfer the workpiece to a clamp........complete the holes with a saddler's awl, using the part formed holes as a guide.........pay attention that the awl emerges on the line at the rear, and with the correct spacing; with a bit of practice you can do this quite quickly and accurately. The awl blade needs to be very sharp & polished so that it glides through the leather easily, with hardly any effort. If you struggle the work will not be neat, and you will get tired & frustrated, making the process even worse.

Saddle stitch and finish the piece as usual

Edited July 30, 2021 by zuludog

[chuck123wapati]

14 hours ago, JohnnyLongpants said:

Buy a piece of cork that is an inch thick or better.  I bought a 12x24" piece that was 1/2" thick and glued two layers together.

Mark/punch your holes on the outermost layers.  Then, glue the inner layers except the innermost layer to the outer layer.  Lay those out flat on the cork and use your awl to push a hole through all the layers.  Do thesame thing to the innermost layer--lay it on cork and use awl to push awl straight through.

Then, apply adhesive to the innermost layer and next layer up.  Don't press it together.  Start sewing.  You have a needle poking through 2-3 layers through an existing hole, and the other needle coming in through 1 layer with the holes premade.  As you stitch awl-free, align the edges.

I suggest cutting each layer slightly large in order to be able to cut or sand the excess off when done sewing.

Yes, a master could sew through this thickness on one fell swoop with just an awl and have the back look as good as the front.  A $4k sewing machine could too.  But if you dont have 10+ years to master awl work or 4k to spend on a machine, this will get you very nice results.  It's just a little slower, unless you compare it to 10 years.

my cork came free with a good bottle of wine included.