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Posted

I've been told to tape the back, which I have. Applying dye to the grain side is no problem but then, even when I'm trying to be careful, I get some bleed over while doing my edges. Is it just something you need to practice until you've figured it out or are there any tricks or techniques someone can enlighten me on?

collar back.jpg

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Posted

What tape do you use? I don't experience this issue with high quality blue painters tape. Also, what is your application process?

 

  • CFM
Posted

I use Magic Markers on my edges. One or two passes does it.

Hoka Hey! Today, tomorrow, next week, what does it matter?

Posted

Do you bevel your edges before applying dye and what applicator are you using?

I find it easier to dye edges after I bevel them.  I use a felt chalkboard eraser cut into small pieces and held in a spring clothespin to apply dye.  Dip the piece of eraser lightly into dye and apply to edges.  Don’t soak the eraser - just dip the tip and go slow and you should not see bleeding onto the back.

Cowboy 4500, Consew 206RB-4

  • CFM
Posted (edited)

 i once asked an old carpenter what the difference was between an apprentice and a master carpenter. He laughed and said the master knows how to hide his screwups. 

the way i see it is you have three choices . 

1. an apprentice =  keep trying to dye the edges perfectly and throw all your screwups in a bin and lose money.

2.  Journeyman =Dye the whole thing and sell it for the same price and hope the dye doesn't bleed.

3. Master= cover it with a liner and sell it as the high QUALITY leather work you want to sell, and you can do it for more money.

Just my opinion but you commented on another post that you wanted to sell high quality leather work, well an unlined collar isn't high quality work.

How ever if you are intent on selling unlined collars then 

I use an edge paint and apply it with the wooden end of a small brush, simply dip about an inch of it in the  paint wipe the extra drip off on the container and run it along the edge using the side of the handle

Edited by chuck123wapati

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Posted

I used to use blue tape on the back, but with some leathers, it pulled up the fibers and made it sort of fluffy, for lack of a better word. How much, if at all, depended on the quality of the leather and what part of the side I was cutting it from.
Since then, I dip dye 95% of my work - mainly strap type of products. I then use Molotow 15mm markers to apply an edge color of my choice and after that dries, to apply a little liquid glycerin soap to burnish the edges with. Makes it super easy, effective and most of all, clean.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008H47HP2/ref=twister_B07GBDY6LH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, tsunkasapa said:

I use Magic Markers on my edges. One or two passes does it.

So a normal magic marker? I've seen the empty markers you can fill and am considering that but are normal markers something people use?

4 hours ago, garypl said:

Do you bevel your edges before applying dye and what applicator are you using?

I find it easier to dye edges after I bevel them.  I use a felt chalkboard eraser cut into small pieces and held in a spring clothespin to apply dye.  Dip the piece of eraser lightly into dye and apply to edges.  Don’t soak the eraser - just dip the tip and go slow and you should not see bleeding onto the back.

I bevel my edges before dying. I will admit that my applicator is probably a big part of the problem. I'm using a wool dobber that just barely has any dye on it.

 

5 hours ago, seasidesunflower said:

What tape do you use? I don't experience this issue with high quality blue painters tape. Also, what is your application process?

 

I use the duck brand blue quick release painters tape.

 

4 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

 i once asked an old carpenter what the difference was between an apprentice and a master carpenter. He laughed and said the master knows how to hide his screwups. 

the way i see it is you have three choices . 

1. an apprentice =  keep trying to dye the edges perfectly and throw all your screwups in a bin and lose money.

2.  Journeyman =Dye the whole thing and sell it for the same price and hope the dye doesn't bleed.

3. Master= cover it with a liner and sell it as the high QUALITY leather work you want to sell, and you can do it for more money.

Just my opinion but you commented on another post that you wanted to sell high quality leather work, well an unlined collar isn't high quality work.

How ever if you are intent on selling unlined collars then 

I use an edge paint and apply it with the wooden end of a small brush, simply dip about an inch of it in the  paint wipe the extra drip off on the container and run it along the edge using the side of the handle

Ok so they make an edge paint that I can use rather than a dye. Do you usually match the paint color to the leather or is it something where you can usually just go black and call it good? So I believe you did recommend on my other post using a liner, which for the stuff people would be wearing, I have decided to put a suede liner on all of those. I just didn't really feel like a suede liner on a dog collar was a good solution, but I could easily be wrong. What would be a good liner material for a dog collar?

I guess I never actually mentioned this is a dog collar. I should probably specify when I post since I am making collars for both people and dogs currently.

Edited by Warhauk
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Posted

I just got started using the empty markers from the buckle guy. Much better than any results I had with a dauber. Pretty inexpensive too.

Not so retired RN. Living on the Washington Peninsula.

 

 

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Posted

If your beveling your edges on front and back of straps then it doesnt really matter how to apply dyes or edge paints. Once you bevel the back side edge it becomes part of the edge instead of the back if that makes since. If you dont want that dye rollover to the backside dont bevel the back edge only do the front. When i have  to tape i use the green frog tape its like the blue painters but has better paint and dye blocking then regular blue painters tape. But you also have to think on the rough side the tape isnt truly gonna be smooth flat so thats gonna allow bleed threw. Collars and belts i allways line with smooth leather never suede. I actually cant think of anything ive ever lined with suede unless a customer just had to have it. I see so many holsters with suede liners and it breaks my heart to know those poor guns are loosing there finish because somebody thought putting sandpaper suede in there holster was a good idea. This is just my opinion of course i dont want to piss off any suede users. 

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Posted (edited)

 Is there a particular reason why the back isn't dyed? Unless I intend to add lining, I always dye  and seal the back of my belts and collars and various other items.  I would think it was quicker to dye the backs than fiddle about taping, and using markers and edge paints. 

@chuck123wapati You make a good point about the carpenter. I do sometimes see wood workers selling their hand made wares at markets etc. When I see the backs of items unpainted, unvarnished etc. they look unfinished.  But thats just me. 

HS

Edited by Handstitched

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He has a wife you know, do you know whats she's called? Incontinentia.......Incontinentia Buttocks '  :rofl:

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