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About NVLeatherWorx

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  • Birthday 11/10/1964

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Belts, wallets, checkbook covers, purses/handbags, etc.
  1. I am not aware of a cleaner that will leave it the darkened state but who knows, there may be something out there on the market or in someone's closet. It sounds like the "concoction" you are talking about might be a blend of lemon juice, white vinegar, and some distilled water. There are so many recipe's out there for stuff you can't keep them straight anymore. If you use anything alcohol based then you might want to consider the highest percentage available that you can find. There is a product on the market that might help you at least cut through the stuff that you want to remove so the leather can absorb some dye and it is called Deglazer and it is made by Fiebing's (also available at Tandy, Springfield Leather, and most of the other online leather supply places) but it can be really harsh on the leather and will just about bleach it if the project is tough. Works like a champ but most are afraid of it. I would recommend that whatever you do, whether it be on a cushion or the sofa itself that you try the process on an area of the sofa that is hidden away from common view to see how it works. Seeing a small test result of your plan and the results will help you adjust what needs to be done for the final steps and also allows you to modify the product(s) used to do the job without missing the mark on the whole thing. Good luck with your project.
  2. Amazon Handmade has a fee structure of around 12% but you should already be factoring all of of your expenses/costs (including fees, etc.) into your sell price. Common business models insist upon making sure that you establish your "bottom line" price (the bare minimum that you will accept to ensure profitability and business growth while covering wages, etc.) and then mark it up by the fees and other residual items (such as shipping if you list it as "free shipping"; you don't really give it away). Once you have it all marked up, that is your official list price for anything. This method allows to actually receive what you should as revenue while covering for all other expenses/costs. The Handmade outlet also allows you to create listings for custom made items so you don't have to have a huge array of finished products that have to ship out as soon as someone hits the payment button.
  3. The green Fiebing's dye is really just a plain green but it does take on a more Kelly green look on the swatches as you pointed out. I can tell you from experience that when it dries (the first application) it is a pretty vibrant green and it gets darker with each following application. You can also tinker with blending the oil dyes and some of the antique paste products to generate alternate hues of the base dye colors for that unique look. However, with all of that said, you would probably not want to attempt this task in the first place as there is no guarantee that your sofa could even accept the dyes and/or stains as it most likely not a type of leather that will readily allow color penetration and it is most definitely treated and sealed as a protective measure and attempting to remove that treatment could damage the leather beyond repair or functional use. Typically, the leathers used for upholstery are a "one and done" thing and can not be refinished to meet the original color scheme. You can clean them and condition them (although it is questionable as to how much conditioning really happens when you do so) but that is about the extent of where you can go with it. I get this question all of the time and always after the person has attempted a "suggested" fix for their dilemma only to have results that totally missed the mark on what was being attempted and now they want a solid fix; tough to tell them that they are basically stuck with that "used vintage" look but this type of leather does not work the same way as the type we use to make the things we do (vegetable-tanned cowhide). Sorry the news isn't more positive but the risk of causing serious damage to your sofa is too great. However, the decision is still yours if you want to attempt such a thing. Good luck.
  4. You might be on to something there billybopp.
  5. Aside from those in a zoo I don't believe that we actually raise them as we don't really have the correct environment for them to thrive. Besides, I wouldn't recommend the leather for use as it is not a great quality and I speak from experience having spent time in countries where they do actually have the creature roaming the lands. It is just not a good material and should not be given the distinction of leather.
  6. For anyone who wishes to keep trying to the Eco-Flo Waterstain products here is a very important hint: apply it to damp leather and use a damp sponge (which is what the manufacturer suggests to do anyway) and you should have better results. Also, do not seal it or condition it with anything other than nasty smelling Professional Cream Conditioner as you will have a negative result from the rest of the products for that purpose. The waterstains have several issues and they have cause more users, semi-experienced and new alike, heartache and migraines trying to wrap their heads around how to fix an issue that arises. As mentioned above, some have stopped using the product because it has created major cracking issues and I can vouch for those as I had experienced the same issues when I did some product testing for that line. The cracking was just one of the issues and every one of them can cause you to lose money in wasted materials. I personally do not recommend them for purchase or use but everyone has to make their own decisions when it comes to spending their money. Most of stick with the tried and true brands and products that have been around since the start of this industry and we have seen products and brands come and go while the originals still go strong without ever trying to "compete" with the new kid on the block. Just keep in mind that if you do give this product a try and find yourself regretting it, there have already been plenty of people who have covered the issues and provided comment and recommendations so there is no reason why you should expect anything different just because it is you who took the plunge. Good tooling to all.
  7. Working with Gum Trag takes some time to get the hang of, as is knowing the precise time to burnish your edges (regardless of whether or not you use Gum Trag or just plain water). The fine tuned elements of this craft (and trade) don't come within a few months or even within the first couple of years. I have been using these things and doing this trade for over 40 years and yet I still find something new to add to my skills and techniques, that is what separates the various skill levels of craftsmanship. If you treat Gum Trag much the same as you would the water method (apply it and then let it start to set/dry up a bit) and then go at it with your burnishing tool vigorously (you can't get a good edge going at it like you are in a School Zone, gotta be the Autobahn) you will start to see the results that you may be looking for. It just takes practice to find the right mix of time, speed, and success. Keep at it and give it a chance and good luck.
  8. The entire pattern for this project is available from Tandy through their Leathercraft Library website. It is available as a PDF download once you purchase it (which gives you the rights to use it without any issues). Just look under the menu item for Patterns: Kit which you will find on the left hand side menu.
  9. As a matter of fact I have done an oil application prior to applying the dye and it helped a great deal with getting an even looking finish. Still had some inconsistencies with the lesser brands of leather but nowhere near the look that you would get without it being done. Only thing about oiling prior to the dye application is that you can get some serious rub-off with those dyes that seem to have more "leftover" pigment residue (such as: black, saddle tan, ALL of the regular spirit dyes) so you have to give it a little extra love with the polishing rag.
  10. I have experienced this issue a couple of times and not just with the Saddle Tan color, pretty much every one of them (aside from the black of course). I have found that the toning results are different from each grade and/or leather tanner/supplier. The lesser the grade of leather or the quality of the tanning process the more inconsistent the toning results have been. For example, if the leather is directly from H.O. and is their "upper class" product then the toning has never been an issue; however, if it is an H.O. product but purchased from another source then the toning results have been known to show some inconsistency (regardless of the grade that it has been advertised as). I tried this with the Tandy grades of Craftsman Oak (their economy grade veg-tan) and their Oak-Leaf veg tan (their supposed upper class of leather) and found the results to be all over the place. There have even been times when the better outcomes were actually achieved with the lower grade of leather so it is obvious that even the grading processes for some suppliers has its own set of inconsistencies. Whenever I do run into an issue with the "blotches" I just let it dry for a full 24 hour period and then give it another application of dye and let it dry as well for 24 hours. Once dried I remove any pigment residues and give it a good (not heavy) hit of warm Pure Neatsfoot Oil and let that sit for 24 hours. Once the oil has set I give it another buff down and apply my finish of either 50/50 Resolene/Water or full-strength Leather Balm. I typically have no further issues with blotches or light spots at this point, it is however a little bit darker than a traditional Saddle Tan but it is still light enough that you know what it is and the cover is complete.
  11. I make my wallets with a combination of weights, each one used for the components based on function. For example: Back (exterior) is made from 4 to 5 oz. Interior Bases (pocket base, etc.) is made from 3 to 4 oz. Pocket pieces are made from 2 to 3 oz. All components are made from either veg-tan or Horween depending on the final look desired. I used pigskin in the old days but it eventually wears out around the stitching lines and has a tendency to stretch over time; make a great lining though. I will still use pigskin on those items that require a coin/change type pocket but those are rare in today's market. I am still able to achieve a fully functional billfold (or other style wallet) with the thicker leathers while still keeping the weight down and the thickness and the added advantage of having much more durable materials results in a finished wallet that will have an even longer useful life for the owner.
  12. Yup! Always someone out there trying to scam people and there are always those out there who don't have a clue when they are being scammed. I just collect all of the data I can on a source (IP, names used, etc.) and provide it to the FBI for follow-up. Have actually been contacted back a few times with a big "Thank You" as the data provided helped them with some actions against some of these types. The age of the Internet and Social Media have opened that door wide and it will only get worse as technology controls the daily lives of those who can't live without it.
  13. And that questionable language is the sign of very poor translations; after all, these are primarily located overseas in regions of Asia, Russia, and Africa. Some are so obvious that you almost look at them as a very pathetic stand-up comedy routine. Kind of reminds you of the old "I am Prince so and so and I would like to send you some of my wealth" email scams.
  14. Not to mention, the company that is identified in Reno, Nevada (where I live) is not a company that deals in the type of products that we make; they are a distributor of commercial furniture and shelving/racking solutions. Besides, if a company in Nevada was interested in doing business with you why would they ask to have anything (even information) sent to an address somewhere else? Really!?
  15. Actually, your line of thinking for the direction you have plotted is pretty much right on. I was commissioned a few months back to do some restoration on two leather art pieces that were framed and had been stuffed in a closet for over 20 years and forgotten. When I received the pieces they were both very dry but not cracked or trying to dry rot but one of them also had some stains on it (later found out that they had been spit on a long time ago). I first hit them up with a treatment of deglazer (they had been sealed and some was still present) and then followed that up with my own mixture of soda water, lemon juice, and white vinegar to do some general cleaning. Once the leather dried from the cleaning I gave it 4 applications of Pure Neatsfoot Oil (with 24 hours rest time in between each treatment) to give some life back to the leather and then finished them off with a finish blend of 50/50 Resolene and distilled water. There was some slight darkening from the overall process but it didn't come from the oil, it came from the Resolene sealer. However, the level of darkening actually returned it to the original shade that it was when they were first carved and tooled so it wasn't an issue for the owner as he grew up with them until he left the house to see the world (they were hidden when the artist, his father, passed away). The best thing here, for me, was that I didn't charge him for these restorations as these were real works of art: one was the mural of "Ghost Riders in the Sky" and the other was a mural of a quartet in a Bar; both were heavy with detail and the stains were pretty much non-visible when it was all finished. Hope this helps.